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PostPosted: Thu Sep 21, 2017 4:13 pm 
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Joined: Mon Feb 06, 2006 1:06 am
Posts: 489
I'm trying to upgrade my AX Lightness Vial Evo to 9100. Got everything installed but can't seem to get it to shift to the big ring.

I was running 9000 before and everything worked beautifully

I've followed the instructions -- tried tensioning and lining up the indicators -- but there doesn't seem to be enough tension to move the whole contraption over enough to shift to the big ring. I've used a fourth hand tool to really pull the cable. Also played with the built in adjustment screw but no luck.

Yes i've checked the limit screws -- backed them all the way out to test.

Is there any trick to the new 9100 design?

I noticed the seat tube on the Vial Evo is quite slim. Is it possible that it is too far inwards from the crank that the derailleur is incapable of swinging such a wide arc?

Worst case scenario I suppose I could install my 9000 FD but then I'd be 1 piece out from a matching 9100 set.

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AX Lightness Vial Evo, Carl Strong Titanium


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Posted: Thu Sep 21, 2017 4:13 pm 


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 21, 2017 6:33 pm 
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Joined: Mon Mar 28, 2016 6:34 pm
Posts: 125
Location: Romania
Is this on the stand or the road? I have Campy 11 on a new carbon frame and stand shifting plain sucks but on the road it is actually smooth and nice (provided I keep the lever tension up for a half second or a bit more when in the larger cogs)

What really helped was to put the derailleur as low as possible, almost touching the teeth. I've also read there is a wedge shaped plate from Sram you can put between braze and derailleur body and improve the wrap.


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 21, 2017 6:45 pm 
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Joined: Tue May 23, 2006 9:39 pm
Posts: 1064
check cable path. you may not have it in the correct routing path...which will prevent it from getting fully tensioned.

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- AX Lightness Vial EVO D + DA9070 + Enve SES 3.4 carbon hubs
- Parlee Altum + DA9150 + Enve SES 4.5 carbon hubs
- Parlee ESX + DA9070 + THM SRM PM + Enve SES 6.7 CK hubs
- Independent Fabrication Ti FLW + Campy SR11 + Enve 3.4 CK hubs


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 21, 2017 7:04 pm 
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Joined: Fri Feb 01, 2013 12:26 pm
Posts: 42
make sure front mech is parallel and the right height to/from chainrings, use stick on metal plate to seat tube and thread in the bracing 2mm bolt to just touch it. Attach cable to mech with lever on small ring furthest in position. make sure the cable is not caught anywhere else, then shift to big ring position then back to big ring trim position before you do the new bit, tightening the cable tension allen key to line up the 2 marks. then make sure you check operation before routing the rest of the cable as per instruction/youtube video and finally thread cable through the plastic cover plate, snap cover plate into place and cut/crimp cable end.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YNYf_QgPLqM


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 21, 2017 9:28 pm 
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Joined: Tue Mar 13, 2012 7:27 pm
Posts: 143
mrd wrote:
make sure front mech is parallel and the right height to/from chainrings, use stick on metal plate to seat tube and thread in the bracing 2mm bolt to just touch it. Attach cable to mech with lever on small ring furthest in position. make sure the cable is not caught anywhere else, then shift to big ring position then back to big ring trim position before you do the new bit, tightening the cable tension allen key to line up the 2 marks. then make sure you check operation before routing the rest of the cable as per instruction/youtube video and finally thread cable through the plastic cover plate, snap cover plate into place and cut/crimp cable end.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YNYf_QgPLqM


And then the usual thing, will prob have to adjust it the next day after all the cable stretch comes out overnight....


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 22, 2017 4:22 am 
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Joined: Mon Jul 04, 2016 1:52 am
Posts: 96
eric01 wrote:
I've used a fourth hand tool to really pull the cable. Also played with the built in adjustment screw but no luck.


There isn’t enough information in here to figure out what is wrong, but the 9100 shouldn’t need the tension of a 4th hand. Between the new cable path and the built-in tensioner, hand tight should be sufficient.


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 22, 2017 4:50 am 
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Joined: Sun Mar 02, 2014 6:17 pm
Posts: 53
If memory serves, the H limit screw works like it does on DI2 front derailleurs. Meaning if you backed it out all the way, you actually moved the cage inboard towards the small ring, this is why you can't shift to the big ring. The guys at Shimano actually said that the H screw shouldn't be called a 'limit' screw, it should be called a cage positioning screw because it will move the cage in and out but it doesn't actually work as a physical stop.


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 22, 2017 5:28 am 
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Joined: Mon Feb 06, 2006 1:06 am
Posts: 489
rcb78 wrote:
If memory serves, the H limit screw works like it does on DI2 front derailleurs. Meaning if you backed it out all the way, you actually moved the cage inboard towards the small ring, this is why you can't shift to the big ring. The guys at Shimano actually said that the H screw shouldn't be called a 'limit' screw, it should be called a cage positioning screw because it will move the cage in and out but it doesn't actually work as a physical stop.


I think this might be it. After re-reading the instructions and watching that video (thx guys) I realized that I hadn't set up the limit screw exactly per the instructions.

In previous generations, I'd usually set the cable tension first and then adjust the limit screws.

Going to give it a try tonight and see if I have better luck.

_________________
AX Lightness Vial Evo, Carl Strong Titanium


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Posted: Fri Sep 22, 2017 5:28 am 


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 24, 2017 5:36 pm 
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Joined: Wed Oct 12, 2016 3:43 pm
Posts: 14
eric01 wrote:
rcb78 wrote:
If memory serves, the H limit screw works like it does on DI2 front derailleurs. Meaning if you backed it out all the way, you actually moved the cage inboard towards the small ring, this is why you can't shift to the big ring. The guys at Shimano actually said that the H screw shouldn't be called a 'limit' screw, it should be called a cage positioning screw because it will move the cage in and out but it doesn't actually work as a physical stop.


I think this might be it. After re-reading the instructions and watching that video (thx guys) I realized that I hadn't set up the limit screw exactly per the instructions.

In previous generations, I'd usually set the cable tension first and then adjust the limit screws.

Going to give it a try tonight and see if I have better luck.



If even that didn't work then one thing you may wish to check. If your frame is a PF BB, it could be your BB is not press in enough and thats why your crank distant is too far away from your frame. It happens to me once so just my 2 cents.


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