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PostPosted: Tue Oct 24, 2017 7:15 pm 
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Joined: Tue Oct 24, 2017 7:01 pm
Posts: 5
I’m interested in giving 1x a shot. In the past, I’ve had (painful) issues throwing chains during sprints on numerous bikes/builds from various mechanics.

I have just a few parts lying around and am looking for suggestions on a build for crits, JRA, and flats/rolling hills.

Existing parts: 6800 crankset, 11-28 and 12-25 Shimano cassettes, Sl-70 aero bars; Hed jet 6+ wheels.

Needs(?): Sram 1x rear derailleur (medium length cage?); 1x chainring for the ultegra crank (wolf tooth to be able to use existing cranks?); Sram 1x shifters; chain; brakes.

Enlighten me please on your ideas and preferences. Do the wolf tooth rings work as well as the Sram x sync rings?

Also, if you have any ideas for a good base frame or know of where I could pick one up, let me know. I’m roughly somewhere between 56-58 for most companies. Stack somewhere from 560-580 and reach from around 385-405 is probably doable.


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Posted: Tue Oct 24, 2017 7:15 pm 


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 25, 2017 12:48 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jan 22, 2014 11:48 am
Posts: 2516
Location: Vienna Austria
I'm running on 1x on 4 or 5 bikes and have experimented quite a bit. Here's my input:

Minimum: Narow wide chainring (between 46 and 52 in your case) on your current setup. Use http://ritzelrechner.de/ for gearing. Just mount the chainring, take off the front mech and go ride, you'll be fine.

You DON'T need a clutch / 1x specific rear mech for 1x. I used to run *without* clutch on my MTB initially, and didn't drop a chain.

You only need SRAM 1x mechs for: 36t and 42t cassettes or for seriously bumpy rides (CX races, very rough gravel).

I am running regular SRAM 2x10/11 levers on most of my builds, I just take off the left shift lever - 1 minute job and easily reversible. You can take out the cable drum & ratchets too to save a few grams - then you have exactly the same left lever as the one SRAM sells you for 1x.

I have lots of 1x chainrings (28, 30, 32, 36, 40, 42, 46, 50) from different brands, Wolf tooth and Garbaruk rings work very well, SRAM too. 2 cheaper ebay chainrings I have are noisy at higher chain angles.

BTW, my next 1x build will be an FM-066 with etap Wifli with a 9-32 3t bailout cassette and a blip setup so I can add clip-ons with shift buttons :D


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 25, 2017 3:07 pm 
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Joined: Tue Oct 24, 2017 7:01 pm
Posts: 5
Thanks for the tip on the shifters. I’ll look for a bargain set used.

The clutch is the main reason I want to build a project bike because each of my chain drop/throws was on perfectly smooth roads while sprinting. Have you been able to notice any appreciable benefit to having it or not having it?


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 25, 2017 4:04 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jun 08, 2010 4:58 am
Posts: 265
Location: Chicago
What kind of chainring were you using when you threw your chain?


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 25, 2017 4:24 pm 
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Joined: Tue Oct 24, 2017 7:01 pm
Posts: 5
gospastic wrote:
What kind of chainring were you using when you threw your chain?


On several different bikes: Shimano 5800, 6800, and Praxis: each time more painful than the last. Ultegra chains and 5800 and 6800 rear derailleurs.


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 25, 2017 4:38 pm 
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Joined: Wed Dec 15, 2010 10:32 am
Posts: 603
Location: Estonia
I have lost chain on my roadbike on roadrace. Race was done, because I could not catch the bunch.
Garbaruk oval 48T
Shimano RD-6800.
It was on the descent, when freewheeling and probably hitting a hole on the road.
My suggestion is to use chainguide if not using clutch rear mech. For example Woltooth: https://r2-bike.com/WOLFTOOTH-Chainguid ... e-on-Mount
I have this on my CX bike. So far pleased.

_________________
"Nothing compares to the simple pleasure of a bike ride"
Jamis Renegade Expert
Spark 900 RC


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 25, 2017 4:45 pm 
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Joined: Tue Oct 24, 2017 7:01 pm
Posts: 5
rainerhq wrote:
I have lost chain on my roadbike on roadrace. Race was done, because I could not catch the bunch.
Garbaruk oval 48T
Shimano RD-6800.
It was on the descent, when freewheeling and probably hitting a hole on the road.
My suggestion is to use chainguide if not using clutch rear mech. For example Woltooth: https://r2-bike.com/WOLFTOOTH-Chainguid ... e-on-Mount
I have this on my CX bike. So far pleased.


Solid. If I'm honest with myself, this project is just as much about reducing the psychological impediment I now have to standing up and cranking down as it is about the fun of another build. A chainkeeper like that seems like a good idea.


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 25, 2017 10:58 pm 
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in the industry

Joined: Sat May 12, 2012 7:25 pm
Posts: 3318
Location: Glermsford, Suffolk U.K
I have been on 1x11 since Feb this year. I use a garbaruk 52T narrow wide oval ring and campagnolo record 1 speed everything else. It works fine but in the lowest gear there is more chain noise. I can move the chainring in bit with spacers and i must do that. Otherwise 1x11 has been great.

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www.thecycleclinic.co.uk


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 27, 2017 7:20 pm 
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Joined: Tue Oct 24, 2017 7:01 pm
Posts: 5
Are there any clutch rear deraileurs other than sram that would work on road? Looks like some people have done shimano’s Mountain di2 derailleur: anything else?


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 27, 2017 8:26 pm 
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Joined: Wed Dec 15, 2010 10:32 am
Posts: 603
Location: Estonia
Shimano MTB clutch der and Wolftooth Tanpan, so you can use road shifters.
https://r2-bike.com/WOLFTOOTH-Adapter-T ... -Cassettes

_________________
"Nothing compares to the simple pleasure of a bike ride"
Jamis Renegade Expert
Spark 900 RC


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Posted: Fri Oct 27, 2017 8:26 pm 


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 27, 2017 8:27 pm 
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in the industry

Joined: Sat May 12, 2012 7:25 pm
Posts: 3318
Location: Glermsford, Suffolk U.K
you dont need a clucth mech. I did the strada bianchi ride on my 1x11 setup with campy rear mech the chain did not drop.

_________________
www.thecycleclinic.co.uk


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