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PostPosted: Fri Jul 28, 2017 8:22 am 
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Joined: Wed Mar 15, 2017 12:30 am
Posts: 22
Hi,

I ride 50/34 on my Campy Super Record 2015 and wanted to upgrade it to bigger gears. I heard that Campy recommends to replace bolts during the operation. As they are quite expensive and available only on order here, I would like to know if this is really necessary (or Campy tries to sell extra items) or I can reuse my old bolts.

I also looking for information if it's possible to mix chainrings such as 52/34, 53/34 or 53/36?

Bart


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 28, 2017 8:57 am 
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Joined: Mon Aug 29, 2016 11:19 am
Posts: 388
There is a thread where people who have tried 52/34 all say it works fine. No issues.

It starts with a semi-compact 52/36t though and then they wish to make the gears easier and put a 34t chainring. So I think your situatioin is a bit more unusual.

Campy being a bit special and having a high quality and performance expectation it may be that it's not to your liking. Maybe shifting is a little less crisp.

I can't see why using the old bolts wouldn't work.

May I ask why you need a bigger gear? 52-53t chainring is almost no change compared to 50t. As long as you got an 11t cassette the speed at high cadence is like 70-75km/h.

/a


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Posted: Fri Jul 28, 2017 8:57 am 


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 28, 2017 10:44 am 
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Joined: Sun Jun 21, 2015 9:34 pm
Posts: 36
Honestly can't see why new chainring bolts would be required so long as they're in good condition. It's not like they're torqued to high values given their diameter or thread pitch.

I have re-used Campy chainring bolts on my 2013 Record and 2014 Centaur repeatedly (5-arm cranksets)... 4-arm may be different, I dunno... but I don't see how the torque would be.


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 28, 2017 11:23 am 
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Joined: Wed Mar 15, 2017 12:30 am
Posts: 22
I mainly ride on velodrome so I feel a huge difference between 50T and 52T or 53T. I live in very flat area, so extra teeth are appreciate (it's rare that I drop to 34T) + regularly making trips to mountains. I still do some acceleration on 50/11 while descending about 80kmph (due to riding on a track I like a high cadence), however would be nice to get some extra speed from the 52/53T.

On the other side, for climbing I would appreciate 34T or at least 36T over 39T cause I am not a climber (velodrome, right? :D).
I currently ride on 50/34T + 11-29 all-time, however my dream setup would be:
- flats, all-round: 53/36(34 if possible) + 11-25 (for 36T) or 11-23 (if 34T is possible) - this would allow me to ride everywhere without worrying except high grade climbs, so when I take my bike to other cities (I travel a lot across my country due to work), I don't have to think if there is some hills or not, cause I can make it (this is why I would use 11-25 if 36T is necessary, for 34T the 11-23 would be OK for me)
- mountains: using my mountains wheels with 11-29 installed and no requirement to switch to 50/34T.

Going with standards I can use a semi 52/36 + 11-25 (11-29 for mountains). However a combo like 53/34 + 11-23(11-29) or similar as described above would fits my needs better.

Sounds good? :)


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 28, 2017 12:15 pm 
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Location: Expat in Washington DC
The reason that Campagnolo recommends the replacement of chainring bolts is due to the fact that due to the hi torque used to do them up the anodising will come off the threads, this may then cause galvanising if you reuse them.

Up to you if you want to risk, but having experienced stuck chainring bolts before I wouldn't want to go through that again.


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 28, 2017 1:18 pm 
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Joined: Wed Mar 15, 2017 12:30 am
Posts: 22
So I need the chainrings, bolts and loctite, or am i missing something?

The bolts catalog number is FC-SR300, right?
Any specific recommendation for loctite?

EDIT
2 new chainrings + bolts cost about 200€ that means 1/3 of the new crankset. I would say teeth and bolts would be 15-20% of a total cost of the crankset. Well, nothing new for Campy ;-)


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 28, 2017 3:29 pm 
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xmashx wrote:
Going with standards I can use a semi 52/36 + 11-25 (11-29 for mountains). However a combo like 53/34 + 11-23(11-29) or similar as described above would fits my needs better.

Sounds good? :)


53/34 is probably not going to work or work well. It's a large difference (19 teeth). You would need a longer derailleur cage to take up the extra chain required. Some guys on the board have made 52/34 work.

It seems like the easiest solution is to just change the cassette to an 11-23 or 11-25 and put on the 11-29 for mountains.

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 28, 2017 6:47 pm 
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Joined: Thu Mar 03, 2016 8:37 pm
Posts: 81
Personally, I wouldn't bother with the bolts.
You do have two things to think about.
1. Not using Campy's paired chainrings means that the shift pins won't line up. So, you will loose some performance of front shifts.
2. Adding more tooth difference (more that 16 teeth) on the front will limit the useful range on the back.


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 28, 2017 7:50 pm 
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Location: Reading, UK
The stock SR chainring bolts are alloy so not tolerant of repeated removal and replacement.

50-34 / 11-29 is quite the combination for a very flat area.

If you want a bigger front ring, bite the bullet and buy a 52-36? You could slum it and save money by dropping to Chorus... :-)


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 28, 2017 9:05 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jan 05, 2014 11:04 pm
Posts: 177
Location: Denmark
Miller wrote:
The stock SR chainring bolts are alloy so not tolerant of repeated removal and replacement.

50-34 / 11-29 is quite the combination for a very flat area.

If you want a bigger front ring, bite the bullet and buy a 52-36? You could slum it and save money by dropping to Chorus... :-)


He says it's a 2015 group, so i pressume it's the 4 bolt version, and the rings are the same on Chorus/record/ super record

Stronglight makes rings for the 4 bolt chainset.


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 29, 2017 7:30 pm 
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Joined: Mon May 26, 2008 12:21 pm
Posts: 266
Location: UK
xmashx wrote:
So I need the chainrings, bolts and loctite, or am i missing something?

The bolts catalog number is FC-SR300, right?
Any specific recommendation for loctite?

EDIT
2 new chainrings + bolts cost about 200€ that means 1/3 of the new crankset. I would say teeth and bolts would be 15-20% of a total cost of the crankset. Well, nothing new for Campy ;-)


Record 2015 = four arm crankset so the bolts come with the chainrings.
You do not loctite them - use the material that is on the bolt, lock to 8 nm, done.

New bolts are advised because:
Re-use bolt and lock to 8 nm they tend to come undone.
Re-use bolts and Loctite you may need a higher torque to get them out again than the Torx socket can withstand (release torque without Loctite is in most cases approx +25%, due to galling of surfaces that have had anodising degraded, with Loctite, it depends on the grade) so you may be faced with drilling out of a blind location - I'd want to be very sure of my depth gauge on the pillar drill ...

50/34 doesn't work anything like as well - tooth timings are out relative to the ramping / pinning so you are essentially back to the kind of front shift you had pre-ramps, with just pins. We have run it with stock rings on the pro teams as an experiment - got a thumbs-down from the pros. The second problem is the overall depth of the cage. If you are running 12-29 you'll find that fully cross-chained, dpending on seat angle and BB drop, you may and may not be able to avoid the chain hitting the inside top of the cage in big to big whilst clearing the rear bridge on small to small, or vice versa.

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Head Tech, Campagnolo main UK ASC


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 31, 2017 3:15 pm 
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Joined: Thu Mar 03, 2016 8:37 pm
Posts: 81
[quote="graeme_f_k"]
New bolts are advised because:
Re-use bolt and lock to 8 nm they tend to come undone.
Re-use bolts and Loctite you may need a higher torque to get them out again than the Torx socket can withstand (release torque without Loctite is in most cases approx +25%, due to galling of surfaces that have had anodising degraded, with Loctite, it depends on the grade) so you may be faced with drilling out of a blind location - I'd want to be very sure of my depth gauge on the pillar drill ...
quote]
I stand corrected on the bolts.
If it means anything, I have the 2015+ 52/36, and the shifting is very crisp.


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 02, 2017 12:50 am 
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Joined: Fri May 08, 2009 8:31 pm
Posts: 302
Location: Denver
Graeme, did you mean 52/34 in your post rather than 50/34? Isn't 50/34 the stock compact setup?


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 02, 2017 3:29 am 
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Posts: 4745
@dmp... yes, pretty sure Graeme did indeed mean 52/34 in is earlier post, and not 50/34. I noticed it too at the time. Typo. 34/50 is the stock compact gearing as you note. So no problems with timing of chainrings, the only issue is that the physical distance the chain has to drop is the largest of the three stock configurations (34/50, 36/52, and 39/53), which can l more easily lead to a chain drop on the innerside. Fortunately, chaincatcher devices became a lot more common around that time as well.

_________________
Colnago C60 - PR99
C59 Five Years Later
My Special Colnago EPQ
Trek Emonda SL Campagnolo SR


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Posted: Wed Aug 02, 2017 3:29 am 


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 25, 2017 2:27 pm 
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Joined: Fri Oct 30, 2009 10:36 pm
Posts: 723
I am searching for the weight of 50/34 4-arm chainrings with bolts if anyone has weighed them. I can not find the published weight online and am too lazy to take mine apart.

Conversely, if anyone has the weight of a Super Record 4-arm crank minus the chainrings would be helpful as well. Thanks.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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It's all downhill from here, except for the uphills.


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