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PostPosted: Sun Oct 01, 2017 5:56 pm 
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Joined: Wed Mar 09, 2016 7:13 pm
Posts: 794
wilwil wrote:
I think I used a Park headset removal tool. You have to ensure it engages on the inside edge not the edge thats in contact with the BB. It doesn't matter if that edge gets slightly damaged as it is not in contact with the frame. There are probably better tools for this job though.


By inside edge u mean about edge where bb86 cups and threadlock alloy inserts are in contact and to be carefull to dont engage on part where threadlock sleeves are in contacti with the frame i guess?

And can u point me specific tool? Is it this one: https://www.parktool.com/product/head-c ... ry=Headset

"Also removes the PressFit 30 (PF30) bottom bracket units. The PressFit 30 inside diameter is the same as headset cups, and is pressed in the same manner."

Asking because to me dont look like compatible with BB86 cups...


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Posted: Sun Oct 01, 2017 5:56 pm 


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 01, 2017 9:51 pm 
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Joined: Sun Aug 10, 2014 3:44 pm
Posts: 120
Apart from a couple of color codes only for Japan there is NO difference in specs.All new frames produced now they do NOT have a full metal sleeve .


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 03, 2017 5:00 pm 
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Joined: Thu Sep 23, 2010 5:47 pm
Posts: 107
My LBS now has a gold and carbon C60 without the full sleeve. The areas inside that can be seen in the BB have been tidied up and painted with some dark grey matte paint.


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 03, 2017 5:01 pm 
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Joined: Thu Sep 23, 2010 5:47 pm
Posts: 107
nestornnk wrote:
Apart from a couple of color codes only for Japan there is NO difference in specs.All new frames produced now they do NOT have a full metal sleeve .


Have they given you reason for getting rid of the metal sleeve?


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 03, 2017 5:04 pm 
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Joined: Thu Sep 23, 2010 5:47 pm
Posts: 107
3Pio wrote:
wilwil wrote:
I think I used a Park headset removal tool. You have to ensure it engages on the inside edge not the edge thats in contact with the BB. It doesn't matter if that edge gets slightly damaged as it is not in contact with the frame. There are probably better tools for this job though.


By inside edge u mean about edge where bb86 cups and threadlock alloy inserts are in contact and to be carefull to dont engage on part where threadlock sleeves are in contacti with the frame i guess?

And can u point me specific tool? Is it this one: https://www.parktool.com/product/head-c ... ry=Headset

"Also removes the PressFit 30 (PF30) bottom bracket units. The PressFit 30 inside diameter is the same as headset cups, and is pressed in the same manner."

Asking because to me dont look like compatible with BB86 cups...

You need the Park BBT90.3 or much better is the Enduro BRT 003 which needs no hammer but is expensive.


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 03, 2017 7:35 pm 
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Joined: Wed Mar 09, 2016 7:13 pm
Posts: 794
wilwil wrote:
3Pio wrote:
wilwil wrote:
I think I used a Park headset removal tool. You have to ensure it engages on the inside edge not the edge thats in contact with the BB. It doesn't matter if that edge gets slightly damaged as it is not in contact with the frame. There are probably better tools for this job though.


By inside edge u mean about edge where bb86 cups and threadlock alloy inserts are in contact and to be carefull to dont engage on part where threadlock sleeves are in contacti with the frame i guess?

And can u point me specific tool? Is it this one: https://www.parktool.com/product/head-c ... ry=Headset

"Also removes the PressFit 30 (PF30) bottom bracket units. The PressFit 30 inside diameter is the same as headset cups, and is pressed in the same manner."

Asking because to me dont look like compatible with BB86 cups...

You need the Park BBT90.3 or much better is the Enduro BRT 003 which needs no hammer but is expensive.



I thought the same until i start reading and find out that BB90.3 is for removing BB86 bearings and not cups.

Probably the right tool will be Park RT-1 (95% sure about this), or Park RT-2 (5% for this), or Unior 1681.1

I will appreciate if someone confirm me about this, and if u have opinion whicn one is better Unior or Park will like love to find ur opinions.

Enduro BRT003 is great tool but too expensive for using once ot twice in two-three years, so even i wanted to order i decide that is not worth.

There is anouther similar tool, but also not worth for using once... It's: http://www.ebay.com/itm/TriPeak-Integra ... c42PFU2y_A

For pressing the cups probably i'll use this one: https://www.bike-components.de/de/Cyclu ... l-o300001/

Together with this: https://www.bike-components.de/de/Cyclu ... lo-p33827/


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 03, 2017 8:55 pm 
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Joined: Thu Dec 09, 2004 5:51 pm
Posts: 190
Just took mine apart last weekend. Park rt-2 is the answer . I have both rt-1 and rt-2. The rt-1 is just shy of spreading enough to catch the outside of bearing race.


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 03, 2017 8:59 pm 
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Joined: Wed Mar 09, 2016 7:13 pm
Posts: 794
ironman1 wrote:
Just took mine apart last weekend. Park rt-2 is the answer . I have both rt-1 and rt-2. The rt-1 is just shy of spreading enough to catch the outside of bearing race.


Hmm. I just got the answer from the Park Tool:

"The Campagnolo system is a bit different. Here use the RT-1, race remover. You often must push out the seals to engage the tool. "

Again, we are talking about removing the Campagnolo PressFit Cups, not something else? (Like maybe Shimano or Sram or Bearings..)?


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 03, 2017 9:21 pm 
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Joined: Thu Dec 09, 2004 5:51 pm
Posts: 190
Not Campagnolo but Colnago. The tread fit system has takes a 41mm outer race bearing no matter what crank set your running. the rt-1 does not spread out enough to catch the outer race of bearing, rt-2 does. With the rt-1 you would be contacting the balls and not outer race.


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