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PostPosted: Mon Jul 17, 2017 6:34 pm 
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Hi,

I'm having some trouble with my ultegra di2. The battery ran flat for the first time ever yesterday. Neither derailleur was working. So I aborted my .5mile ride at the bottom of the street and plugged the charger in. Left it overnight.

This morning early doors I set off again. Only to find the FD working fine but the RD does nothing. I'm pretty new to the tech so had a roadside google. I came across the crash reset. It hasn't been crashed but worth a whirl... I hold the button in for three seconds and nothing happens. No red light. No green light. Nothing.

When I hold the gear shifter in I get the green light on the junction box but no movement.

It's killing me as the sun is out and I can't go ride!

Help anyone?

Jamie


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Posted: Mon Jul 17, 2017 6:34 pm 


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 17, 2017 7:18 pm 
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merser wrote:
Help anyone?


It's time to run a diagnostic! If you have the wireless unit and the iPad version of the eTube app, you can do this easily. If you have the software for your computer, it's a little more involved.

But either way, if you have a local bike shop, they should be able to diagnose it in about 30 seconds by using this same software.

(For what it's worth, the wireless interface is well worth the price and few grams....)


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 17, 2017 7:34 pm 
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Masque wrote:
merser wrote:
Help anyone?


It's time to run a diagnostic! If you have the wireless unit and the iPad version of the eTube app, you can do this easily. If you have the software for your computer, it's a little more involved.

But either way, if you have a local bike shop, they should be able to diagnose it in about 30 seconds by using this same software.

(For what it's worth, the wireless interface is well worth the price and few grams....)

I figured someone would say that! Just a bit of a ballache to get my massive bike over to a LBS as there isn't a decent one in this town. Well not that knows anything about Di2 anyway.

I did ring Cookson cycles and they said bring it in and bang on the diagnostics. Think I'll get the dfly whilst I'm there if you say it's worthwhile.

Cheers mate. Was hoping there was a super easy fix but I'll take it to the shop.

Jamie


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 17, 2017 11:27 pm 
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I think you have to hold the button down longer than 3 seconds to get into crash mode for starters. Try 5-10 seconds.

Also, make sure the cable to the rear mech is plugged in properly. In fact, check all the cables at the junction box as well, just in case. Sometimes it's the simple things....

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 18, 2017 7:09 am 
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Pokerface07 wrote:
I think you have to hold the button down longer than 3 seconds to get into crash mode for starters. Try 5-10 seconds.

Also, make sure the cable to the rear mech is plugged in properly. In fact, check all the cables at the junction box as well, just in case. Sometimes it's the simple things....


I tired all the cables and held the button for ages. Nothing. I can only think it's an internal cable that has come loose. I have made a plan to get to a LBS later today so hopefully sort it!


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 18, 2017 9:21 am 
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If the FD works while the RD doesn't, try swapping them around and see if the RD works if you plug it to the FD wire.


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 18, 2017 9:57 am 
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L3X wrote:
If the FD works while the RD doesn't, try swapping them around and see if the RD works if you plug it to the FD wire.

Tried that too! It seems to know which is which. So regardless of which shifter I plug into whatever hole it moves the same derailleur.


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 18, 2017 11:41 am 
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merser wrote:
L3X wrote:
If the FD works while the RD doesn't, try swapping them around and see if the RD works if you plug it to the FD wire.

Tried that too! It seems to know which is which. So regardless of which shifter I plug into whatever hole it moves the same derailleur.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Well, you're going to the LBS anyway, so they will probably sort it.

If you are getting a light on the junction box when holding the shift button on the brifter (assuming the one for the rear), then that indicates the wiring from the brifter to the junction box is all working. And if the front mech works, the system is working. And if the rear mech still doesn't work, even when plugged into the front mech cable (that you know works), then the likelihood is the rear mech itself is the problem (not a wiring issue).

Only thing I can think of is to ensure the actual 'plug hole' in the ear mech is clean and free of any debris that might be causing the connection to fail.

LBS will be able to run a diagnostic, and possibly try your mech on a working bike and/or try a different rear mech in your system.


BTW - is this 10 or 11 speed?

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 18, 2017 12:29 pm 
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Pokerface07 wrote:
merser wrote:
L3X wrote:
If the FD works while the RD doesn't, try swapping them around and see if the RD works if you plug it to the FD wire.

Tried that too! It seems to know which is which. So regardless of which shifter I plug into whatever hole it moves the same derailleur.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Well, you're going to the LBS anyway, so they will probably sort it.

If you are getting a light on the junction box when holding the shift button on the brifter (assuming the one for the rear), then that indicates the wiring from the brifter to the junction box is all working. And if the front mech works, the system is working. And if the rear mech still doesn't work, even when plugged into the front mech cable (that you know works), then the likelihood is the rear mech itself is the problem (not a wiring issue).

Only thing I can think of is to ensure the actual 'plug hole' in the ear mech is clean and free of any debris that might be causing the connection to fail.

LBS will be able to run a diagnostic, and possibly try your mech on a working bike and/or try a different rear mech in your system.


BTW - is this 10 or 11 speed?


11 speed mate. I'll
Let you know how I get on.


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 18, 2017 12:46 pm 
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merser wrote:
Pokerface07 wrote:
merser wrote:
L3X wrote:
If the FD works while the RD doesn't, try swapping them around and see if the RD works if you plug it to the FD wire.

Tried that too! It seems to know which is which. So regardless of which shifter I plug into whatever hole it moves the same derailleur.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Well, you're going to the LBS anyway, so they will probably sort it.

If you are getting a light on the junction box when holding the shift button on the brifter (assuming the one for the rear), then that indicates the wiring from the brifter to the junction box is all working. And if the front mech works, the system is working. And if the rear mech still doesn't work, even when plugged into the front mech cable (that you know works), then the likelihood is the rear mech itself is the problem (not a wiring issue).

Only thing I can think of is to ensure the actual 'plug hole' in the ear mech is clean and free of any debris that might be causing the connection to fail.

LBS will be able to run a diagnostic, and possibly try your mech on a working bike and/or try a different rear mech in your system.


BTW - is this 10 or 11 speed?


11 speed mate. I'll
Let you know how I get on.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


If it's new enough, might be a warranty issue. May take a while to get replaced though.

(If it is dead and under warranty, send it in for replacement - buy a new one in the meantime from somewhere like Wiggle - and when the replacement comes back to you eventually, return it to Wiggle for a full refund) :)


Good luck.

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 18, 2017 1:25 pm 
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Hahah top tip! Yeah i only got the bike in march-ish


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 18, 2017 9:02 pm 
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Soooo... to her to the shop this afternoon... lots of "ooh that's weird" and "never seen that before" etc. The guy tried everything. Over an hour. Ran diagnostic and the e-tube software recognised every bit of the system apart from the RD!

We checked and re checked all cables etc and nothing could get it to kick into life. So we upgraded all the firmware etc. Still nothing.

So as a last gasp, I asked him if he would mind plugging his own bike RR (running di2) into My cabling. He didn't and as soon as we did that my shifters controller his RD fine.

So looks like my RD is cooked. Gutted. It's still easily under warranty but it came on the bike from Ribble cycles and they're a sort of factory/online retailer so it's not quite as simple as taking it into the shop for a straight switch. I'm hoping I can charm them tomorrow and they'll just send me a replacement but I'm not hopeful!

Alternatively, I can buy a new one from LBS and try and battle it out with ribble for credit. We will see...

Jamie


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 18, 2017 9:11 pm 
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Joined: Wed Feb 25, 2009 8:39 pm
Posts: 271
merser wrote:
L3X wrote:
If the FD works while the RD doesn't, try swapping them around and see if the RD works if you plug it to the FD wire.

Tried that too! It seems to know which is which. So regardless of which shifter I plug into whatever hole it moves the same derailleur.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes obviously, that's the whole point isn't it? It would allow you to determine whether the issue is in the derailleur or a different part of the system, depending on what happens after the switch. So in your case:
Begin: current FD works, RD doesn't
Swap: connect FD to RD wire, RD to FD wire
--> if the FD still shifts while being on the RD wire, the FD and the back wires are fine
--> if the FD doesn't shift while being on the RD wire, the issue is with the wire leading to the back of the bike
--> if the RD shifts while being on the FD wire, the RD and the front wires are fine so probably the wires reading to the back of the bike have issues
--> if the RD doesn't shift while being on the FD wire, the RD is broken

So I believe you would have reached the same conclusion like you did now.


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 18, 2017 9:53 pm 
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Ribble are not the worst in the world to deal with. The problem will be that you bought a whole bike and have one broken part (in terms of getting it replaced via their returns system).

I have returned several DI2 parts to them for warranty replacement. The only issue is... it takes a while. And you have to keep following up on it. (They have to get the part, verify it's broken, then send you a new one. And they aren't as responsive as some other outfits.)

I would still recommend buying a new mech (from them or someone else) and once they eventually send you a replacement, send that item back for a refund. I've done it myself several times.

Keep in mind, if you buy from Ribble, they normally send you the part in a plastic bag. If you buy from other retailers, it may come in full retail box. So if it comes in a box, makes sure to carefully open it and save everything! If buying from RIbble, it'll be an easy switch. (Plus they have cheaper prices in many cases).

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Posted: Tue Jul 18, 2017 9:53 pm 


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 19, 2017 5:39 am 
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Ribble is happy to give you a refund instead of a new product.

I just returned my FD, bought a new one locally and got the money back from Ribble.

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Most "innovations" in cycling are solutions for non-existing problems.


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