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PostPosted: Tue Aug 15, 2017 2:08 am 
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justaute wrote:
And, that "guy" needs/needed to learn how to remove tubeless valves. Just a part of the regular bike maintenance knowledge.

Totally agree... you should always experiment with what you might have to do on the road, at home, before you have to do it on the road. But most people don't. What can ya do. But even if he did get the valve out quickly, that was still the least of his worries.

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 15, 2017 2:28 am 
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Calnago wrote:
:lol: Yes, exposed and tied underneath a saddle of a mtn bike for months isn't exactly a "known good tube" at that point. But yes, I suppose there can be manufacturers defects in brand new tubes, but that would be highly abnormal.


Well, I mean, the point is, some people just throw a tube in a bag along with shit with knurled surfaces and so on and expect it to be fine a few months later.

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Last edited by silvalis on Tue Aug 15, 2017 2:54 am, edited 1 time in total.

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Posted: Tue Aug 15, 2017 2:28 am 


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 15, 2017 2:42 am 
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Calnago wrote:
boysa wrote:
+1 on the pump. It's amazing how many people I've ridden with, who having punctured, ask me to borrow my pump. I should charge them!

But seriously, anyone who rides a lot of solo miles would be well served by carrying a pump. Never runs out, enables you to maintain a slow leak in order to make it home (especially with tubulars), and is just frankly convenient.
I'm of this mind as well. With a pump you always have air.

True story: Guy out on a group ride flats with tubeless. Spraying sealant everywhere. Doesn't seal. Stops to fix. Can't get the thing seated properly. Used up all his CO2. Has no spare innertube. Asks for one from someone in the group who obliges. Can't seem to figure out how to get the tubeless valve off so he can insert innertube. Faffing about for some time (nice break for the rest of us). Finally gets innertube stuffed in a gooey sealant filled tire. Has a hell of time mounting with innertube inside. Lots of laughter. Fun times. Switches back to regular clinchers thereafter.

Oh, and in reference to the previous "true story".... how come a backup tube would have a hole in it in the first place? That thing should be a known good tube, either new or repaired. But it should never have a hole in it. I suspect he just wrapped up a used tube he had lying around, not realizing it had a hole in it, and called it his backup. A couple of quickstick patches which take up no space might be good to have a long as well, in case you get 4 flats or something ridiculous like that.


This guy sounds like he has no idea what hes doing so probably best he goes back to clinchers :mrgreen:

Like anything to do with riding bikes, understanding your equipment and how to make minor repairs on the road/trail is important. The fact that he had no pump or spare inner tube would indicate his level of expertise. FWIW with regards to tyre repair equipment, I always carry:

- a single spare tube
- a couple of stick on patches
- 1 tyre boot
- single C02 bottle for a speedy repair and
- a mini pump if the C02 isnt enough to get me home (e.g. slow leak as mentioned above)

I carry this whether I'm on a tubeless setup or not; MTB or road. I can never understand why you wouldn't at the very least carry a mini pump and a tube in the jersey pocket.


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 15, 2017 2:57 am 
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@Doug: Like I said in a followup post, I agree with what you're saying, but you can even read through this thread and figure out that some people think they don't need a spare tube, pump, etc. That's fine, until they do. Then you run into the situations we all laugh about. I've done it too. I'm sure we all have done something similar at one point or another. Live and learn. The thing with tubeless, is you still really need to carry everything you would need if you were running plain old clinchers, so you're not saving any weight. But to think you will never need a spare tube or that the sealant will always fix any flat you get is just plain silly.

And as far as the situation I described goes, apart from a minor setback of removing the tubeless valve (no biggy), all the other stuff could have happened just as easily to someone very experienced in running tubeless with sealant.

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Colnago C60 - PR99
C59 Five Years Later
My Special Colnago EPQ
Trek Emonda SL Campagnolo SR


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 15, 2017 3:05 am 
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@Calnago: I guess it does come down to experience as well. It's unlikely that he will go on a group ride without any form of puncture repair kit again! It's funny that he would go back to tubes though rather than just ensure he was prepared next time but its his choice i suppose. As you note the only difference was removing the valve which is a 30s job if you know how to do it (and havent over tightened the lock nut!)

I've only just started on road tubeless (have ridden MTB for years) and so far so good.


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 15, 2017 3:33 am 
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Location: Back in the saddle...
Road tubeless is pretty darn nice. Why? I've had at least two occasions where I've made it home and only upon my post-ride ritual of wiping everything down have I realized there is sealant on the frame. Puncture never even slowed me down, and the tire lost less than 5psi. IMHO, this is incredible for racing. Not to mention, even if I were to get a puncture that won't seal, the air loss is slower and the tire is attached to the rim in such a way it can be ridden down to no air whatsoever.

Of course, to each his own. I've long been a tubular-only guy, but after sampling the newer road tubeless, I don't know how many more tires I'll be gluing.

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 15, 2017 4:00 am 
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I'd like to share experiences on two punctures.

Pro One 25mm on Roval CLX 50 rim, Stan's sealant and normally pump up to 70psi.

First puncture: was wet day on asphalt roads in country park, punctured on the way home 10km away. Sealant kept spraying and leaking from puncture until maybe 2 mins it stopped. 20psi remain when I got home.

Second puncture (tire usage 1500km): same patched tire from first puncture, no sealant inside as they are used up and I was lazy to go buy it (small lesson learned :). luckily got tube with me and fixed in 10 sweating mins under the sun. got home and found that the Pro One didn't seat nicely with tube on the rim. removed and tried installing on the rim once more but still not seated properly... okay install once more without tube to find the puncture. seated nicely without tube.

anyone experienced that? Pro One 25mm x Roval CLX 50 x inner tube... tried both latex and butyl tubes still no good.......


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 20, 2017 1:16 pm 
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jlok wrote:
Pro One didn't seat nicely with tube on the rim. removed and tried installing on the rim once more but still not seated properly... okay install once more without tube to find the puncture. seated nicely without tube. anyone experienced that? Pro One 25mm x Roval CLX 50 x inner tube... tried both latex and butyl tubes still no good.......


I'm running Pro One's on rear w tube to date.. seated fine on Kinlin 200 alloy rim. Interesting your issue .. fine otherwise tubeless. Assume your set made for tubeless.. the center rim channel maybe requires larger tube... ? Hook depth inside rim... couldn't fine spec on their site. Something to be learned here.. for me at least.


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 20, 2017 4:33 pm 
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Location: Glermsford, Suffolk U.K
I have written a guide to living with tubeless tyres. Read it folks. I have learnt the hard way dont take a tube with you, it means faff and hassle. there are better ways of sorting a flat. I sometimes ride on tubs, never on clinchers with tubes often on tubeless. I dont get issues that I cant solve quickly if I get a problem at all. The last time I had a proper flat it was last winter and that was not the tyres fault. I rode down a wet road covered in big chunks of flint, gravel mud.... thinking what the worst that could happen. Sorted it though.

https://thecycleclinic.co.uk/blogs/news ... less-tyres

Alot of the issues people get with tubeless tyres are user error or inexperience. I have made near enough all the mistakes so you dont have to.

On the first page some one mentioned the IRC formula pro light and not liking them. This is a TT tyre with miminal protection. The other tyres in the range are more robust and have more wet grip but all have higher Crr as a result. I sell/import IRC tyres and will ship all over the world. My next delivery arrives monday.

Pro one's with innertube WTF seriously these are tubeless tyres. they are not meant to have inner tubes in them ever. You don't go putting a inner tube in your car tyre do you so dont try it with a bicycle tubeless tyre. it is faff and hassle we can all do without.

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 20, 2017 5:34 pm 
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I'd meant to add to earlier post ... my reason for running tube now in the S1 was a boogered valve hole. Drilled it out just a tad.. considering how to proceed. Think one layer of Stan's tape .. then either bathtub silicone sealant then mounting value.. or Stan's then a layer of intertube glued down over hole. Any suggestions/input?

Kinlin 200's .. thickness of taped layer matters greatly w S1's... add 7-8 thou of thickness and mounting is a nightmare. DID... mount Panaracer Gravel Kings to other set... got it done w/o much bother. Learning......... narrow internal rims present some issues getting the bead right around the valve stem plug.


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 24, 2017 7:32 pm 
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Posts: 136
I just did my DT Swiss R32s w/ Pro Ones. Wasn't too hard, DT provides all the bits with their wheelsets. The I didn't need a special high pressure/high volume tank to seat the time and the Pro Ones seem to sit great in DT's rim. They do look a LOT bigger and more light-bulby than my 25c GP4000s. I think the GP4000s have a bit more rubber right where they meet the rim. I've got the 25c Pro One tires measuring 27.5mm on my 18c inner rims @130 psi (bedding).


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 25, 2017 4:23 am 
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Posts: 445
It really confuses me that people still uses Stan's sealant in 2017, especially with road tubeless. Orange Seal is far better at plugging holes at higher pressures and won't dry up as quickly.

I had a 4mm long glass cut sealed on Pro Ones that were pumped to 110psi (I was going for a few PRs.) It sprayed sealant for a while and I had to pull over, point the puncture at 6 o'clock and cover it with my finger, but it sealed after that and I still had 85psi left in the tire.

I will say that Pro Ones are very puncture prone. I'd get a puncture every other week on them. So far I have 400mi on Zipp Tangente Speed RT25s and no punctures so far even though the tread has several deep cuts. I'm currently running Slime ATR in the rear on a trial basis and Orange Seal in the front as my preferred sealant.


Last edited by TobinHatesYou on Fri Aug 25, 2017 11:20 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 25, 2017 6:39 am 
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After 8 months of tubeless with pro ones, Hutchinson 5,s and Vitoria tires, I'm switching back to latex tubes. I ride about 250 miles a week and would get a puncture that would seal with about 30psi left about once every 10 days. Only twice did I have to put in a tube. There just are not really any advantages. I would wait a year maybe the tires will get better.


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 25, 2017 10:46 am 
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jlok wrote:
anyone experienced that? Pro One 25mm x Roval CLX 50 x inner tube... tried both latex and butyl tubes still no good.......


I've been using Pro1s tubeless for about 18 months, been through a few sets as they sometimes get holes too large for road pressure to seal properly. However, went out on one ride with tubes in them and got FOUR punctures in 80km. To put this in perspective I've had just one other puncture in 8,000km in 2017 to date. Riding buddy also told me they are shocking with tubes.


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Posted: Fri Aug 25, 2017 10:46 am 


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 25, 2017 11:22 am 
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Posts: 445
Roni1 wrote:
After 8 months of tubeless with pro ones, Hutchinson 5,s and Vitoria tires, I'm switching back to latex tubes. I ride about 250 miles a week and would get a puncture that would seal with about 30psi left about once every 10 days. Only twice did I have to put in a tube. There just are not really any advantages. I would wait a year maybe the tires will get better.


And what sealant did you use?


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