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PostPosted: Tue Jul 11, 2017 5:20 am 
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Joined: Mon Aug 29, 2016 11:19 am
Posts: 388
Hello weenies...

A friend is getting ready for the Taiwan KOM climb and is worried of burning out and having to walk the bike the 27% grades at the end as well as not finishing within the 7h time limit. He likes to spin and just dislikes being out of the saddle.

He's on a wilier running campy veloce 10s with a compact crank 50/34 and a 12-30t cassette. The derailleur is already the longest available thats compatible (medium) and looks to be at the limit on the 30t cog. Not much space to fit even a 32t which isn't available from campy (campy freehub).

To the point. I saw on youtube you can fit an mtb crank on there. The problem is the chainring size. Double chainring cranks are usually maxed at 42/28t and we would like a 46/28 or 46/30. Do you have an idea which common crank can be fitted with such rings and could work on a 10s road bike?

He has a clamp on front derailleur that can be lowered appropriately. I've been looking to get an mtb crank in an appropriate bcd and switch a chainring if needed. What do you think?

Thank you for reading!
/a


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 11, 2017 5:58 am 
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Location: eNZed
46/33 on compact 110bcd is definitely doable.
mtb cranks have higher Q-factor, no?

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Posted: Tue Jul 11, 2017 5:58 am 


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 11, 2017 6:28 am 
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Joined: Mon Sep 07, 2015 1:02 am
Posts: 221
Location: Brisbane
Look at those new fsa and praxis sub-compacts.
46/30 and 48/32

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 11, 2017 7:39 am 
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Location: Vienna Austria
If you really want to fit an MTB crank (higher Q factor but most ppl don't notice) you can get *all* ring sizes from Specialites TA.


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 11, 2017 8:23 am 
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Joined: Tue Sep 08, 2015 7:30 pm
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I replaced a Shimano compact with a 46/30 FSA Omega (2017) on my wife's road bike. Only gotcha is that you have to replace the bottom bracket since the FSA has a 19mm spindle, which also implies that there are not a lot of bottom bracket options (only the ones from FSA themselves). They also have a pricier version (SL-K adventure).

Overall we're very happy with it. Much better solution than having to fit a cassette with large gaps between gears.


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 11, 2017 8:56 am 
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What do you think would happen if you get for example a 3 ring crank like 48/36/24t and take out the 36, put the 48 on it's place and swap out the little one for a 30t (64bcd).

An outer ring being used as a middle ring. How would that work?

/a


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 11, 2017 9:50 am 
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Location: Brisbane
I think your chainring spacing will be way out.

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 11, 2017 10:15 am 
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All the spotfaces on the chainring will be wrong, ring spacing *should* be ok. But chainline might be odd.


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 11, 2017 11:24 am 
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Posts: 274
Rotor announced a 46/30 chainring set that mounts to their cranks but I have only seen one set in the wild.


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 11, 2017 12:13 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jan 22, 2014 11:48 am
Posts: 2423
Location: Vienna Austria
alcatraz wrote:
What do you think would happen if you get for example a 3 ring crank like 48/36/24t and take out the 36, put the 48 on it's place and swap out the little one for a 30t (64bcd).

An outer ring being used as a middle ring. How would that work?

/a


I did this on my old CX, riding 26/40 and 30/40 with a FSA Gossamer triple and TA rings. Shifting was *excellent*.

Because of the positive experience, I just did the same for my wife's new (all-)road bike, she now has an FSA SL-K carbon triple crank with the 26/40 combo and an 11-32 in the back.

Image


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 11, 2017 12:36 pm 
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Location: Welland, Ontario
I had a Campy 10-speed cross bike that was used on trails. Ended up with a Deore crankset and needed a Deore FD as well. The stock FD will foul the chainstay before being low enough. Everything worked fine.

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 11, 2017 2:18 pm 
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Posts: 338
Marin wrote:
alcatraz wrote:
What do you think would happen if you get for example a 3 ring crank like 48/36/24t and take out the 36, put the 48 on it's place and swap out the little one for a 30t (64bcd).

An outer ring being used as a middle ring. How would that work?

/a


I did this on my old CX, riding 26/40 and 30/40 with a FSA Gossamer triple and TA rings. Shifting was *excellent*.

Because of the positive experience, I just did the same for my wife's new (all-)road bike, she now has an FSA SL-K carbon triple crank with the 26/40 combo and an 11-32 in the back.



What was source for 40T chainring?
Was it chainring for big or middle position originally?

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Last edited by ooo on Tue Jul 11, 2017 2:33 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 11, 2017 2:31 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jan 22, 2014 11:48 am
Posts: 2423
Location: Vienna Austria
ooo wrote:
What was source for 40T chainring?
Was it chainring for big or middle position originally?


Specialites TA. Middle ring.


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 11, 2017 2:42 pm 
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Joined: Thu Apr 14, 2016 11:01 am
Posts: 43
Location: France
On Rotor crankset, it's possible to change the spider for the MTB one, 110/74 (or 60, Rotor proprietary). You keep the road Q factor, have the possibility to have less than 30t on the inner.


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 11, 2017 4:42 pm 
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Joined: Wed Mar 15, 2017 5:30 pm
Posts: 274
jeanjacques wrote:
On Rotor crankset, it's possible to change the spider for the MTB one, 110/74 (or 60, Rotor proprietary). You keep the road Q factor, have the possibility to have less than 30t on the inner.

Didn't realize they were interchangeable, good to know as I primarily run Rotor cranks due to them offering shorter lengths. On a similar vein TA Specialites cranks allow you to do the same, although they are square taper.


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Posted: Tue Jul 11, 2017 4:42 pm 


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