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PostPosted: Mon Jul 03, 2017 9:50 pm 
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Joined: Sun Dec 20, 2015 11:55 pm
Posts: 64
Not sure if anyone can help me out but I'm a bit worried about my frame. I bought it as a complete used bike a few months ago and ever since I've had it there is an annoying creak when climbing out the saddle so I decided to try and fix it tonight.
It sounds like the front end somewhere so I ordered new bearings so I could do it all while I had it apart but while it was stripped down I noticed what looks like a crack in the frame inside the headtube!! The paint on the outside isn't cracked but it just looks a bit odd like it shouldn't be there. Does anyone have athe same frame, mines a 2015 so last of the old model. I've hopefully attached a picture to show what I mean.

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Posted: Mon Jul 03, 2017 9:50 pm 


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 03, 2017 10:44 pm 
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Location: RVA,USA
I hope I'm wrong, but I think it's toast

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 03, 2017 10:45 pm 
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I hope your wrong too! Just for clarity I'm talking about this bit Image


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 03, 2017 10:53 pm 
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Joined: Sun Sep 23, 2012 1:53 pm
Posts: 63
IMO that's a bladder seam imprint or similar artifact from the molding process, not a crack. The creak, if coming from the steering head, is likely due to the bearings vs frame seats. A thin film of thick grease, like moly, on the bearings' entire exterior surface should stop that. Including the races where they touch the fork. After top cap compression and assembly, a brief ride, loosen the stem bolts and re-preload the bearings. Tighten stem. If you're a heavy sweater or wash the bike a lot, this needs to be redone at least twice a year.

Hope this helps,
6


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 03, 2017 10:59 pm 
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Posts: 64
numberSix wrote:
IMO that's a bladder seam imprint or similar artifact from the molding process, not a crack. The creak, if coming from the steering head, is likely due to the bearings vs frame seats. A thin film of thick grease, like moly, on the bearings' entire exterior surface should stop that. Including the races where they touch the fork. After top cap compression and assembly, a brief ride, loosen the stem bolts and re-preload the bearings. Tighten stem. If you're a heavy sweater or wash the bike a lot, this needs to be redone at least twice a year.

Hope this helps,
6



That helps a lot thank you very much. This "crack" seems to be inside the top tube as well but looks like it has some kind of carbon tape bonded to it. I've just reassembled and greased all bearing surfaces and used some carbon assembly paste on the bar clamp and on the stem where it attaches to the steerer and it didn't creak when I popped round the block so fingers crossed that was the issue but it did concern me when I saw that inside the frame. The only thing that made me think it was ok was the fact the paint on the outside wasn't cracked and i think it would be if this really was a crack


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 04, 2017 8:41 am 
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Joined: Sun Jun 18, 2006 10:29 am
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Location: Athens, Greece
Using UD and not weaved carbon is one of the reasons these things happen.

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Posted: Tue Jul 04, 2017 8:41 am 


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