Galvanic Corrosion on Aluminum Insert with Carbon Seatpost

[Calnago]

Yes, I don't think silicone grease is anywhere near as "adhesive" as Morgan Blue Aquaproof Paste. I still use a copper based antiseize for stuff like threaded bottom brackets. Just because I've had bottom brackets that I've removed after a very long time installed once with copper based antiseize and they've come out as if they had just been put in. So, I'll use the MB stuff to prevent oxidation (coating of skewers, etc)., and waterbottle screws etc., but I've also used it to PF30 cups as well on some Cannondales and so far so good. The copper based antiseize stuff is great but sheesh... you touch it on something and it takes forever to clean off, especially matte finishes.
I also used the MB Aquaproof Paste in installing the pressed in Ultratorque cups in my C60. I also tried it in lieu of carbon assembly paste in a Trek Seatpost clamp, but it acted to much like a lubricant there, so I cleaned it off and used Tacx Carbon Assembly Paste instead. But overall, I'm liking the stuff. As to the price, that little tub I got will probably last me my lifetime, so I'm not too concerned about the $25 it cost, as I still don't think it's the same as silicone grease.

@youngs_modulus... how is galvanic corrosion different from oxidation? The Morgan Blue stuff sure does seem to coat well, and sticks like crazy, hence you could never use it as any kind of bearing grease, which they specifically state. I ask because you are right, they don't specifically mention galvanic corrosion and I just sort of assumed it would work for that, since it's certainly recommended for those types of applications (pressed in headsets, seat tubes, etc.).

[RyanH]

@calnago, thanks I'll look into MB. What's your recommended timeframe for a checkup on the items? Also, so if I pull the post and notice some corrosion, what do you recommend to clean it? For this time around I used CLP and a brush.

@kode54 This wasn't pretty but since my post has a hollow section through it where the yokes go through (it intersects the post), I took a 5mm long T handle allen key and used it for leverage to slowly rotate from side to side. Initially it didn't do anything but then it started to make a slight noise indicating it was budging ever so slightly. I kept at it for a good 15 minutes until I was able to move it about 1/16 of a rotation then I just went back and forth as I pulled up.

[kode54]

thx Ryan.

personally, the seat post is toast, so i would be willing to drill a hole through it closer to the frame for the best leverage to do what you did. its a good idea, since i really don't want to ruin the carbon fiber rails on my Fizik saddle.

[Calnago]

@calnago, thanks I'll look into MB. What's your recommended timeframe for a checkup on the items? Also, so if I pull the post and notice some corrosion, what do you recommend to clean it? For this time around I used CLP and a brush.

Ha, that really varies, just use your judgement. If you live in a really wet area and ride in the rain, obviously you should pay a little more attention to things. If you sweat a ton and it drips into your headset area, that's something I'd check a little more frequently. I just overhauled a TIME headset that was a mess from all the sweat that dripped into it. Like salt water. On the other hand, I've had neighborhood friends who never ride and have a perfectly good bike that's been sitting in the garage forever. They think they need a tuneup before they can ride it. I say "why, it's in the same condition as the day you bought it, just dust if off, put some air in the tires, and have fun.".
Something as simple as waterbottle cage bolts should at least be looked at now and then, because they are often put in dry and then all kinds of water and sports drink crap can get in there. But if you use grease or this stuff or low strength Loctite, it's all a very good preventative measure. It's amazing how long bike stuff can last that's taken care of. At least the non-consumables. And it's a good idea to look underneath your BB to see how messed up stuff is down there and whether a simple dousing of water with a brush might help clean out all the dried sugary sports drink that sometimes finds its way down there and gets your derailleur cables (mechanical) nice and sticky.
On brand new bikes, it's a good idea to strip everything and rebuild it, because they often have a lot of stuff just bolted on dry. And then you have peace of mind that everything is as it should be as well. Derailleurs especially, just screwed into the derailleur hanger never to be looked at until something is terribly wrong. I just worked on two brand new bikes where the rear derailleur was installed completely "dry" into the hanger. A little grease and it will be good for a very long time. Makes maintenance on your bike down the road so much easier and enjoyable. Nothing worse than going to make a little adjustment and the bolt is seized, rusted, or strips while you try to get it loose.

[scottlum]

I strongly suspect that Morgan Blue Waterproof Paste is just silicone grease. All of the claims Morgan Blue makes on its web site are also true of silicone grease. It also looks exactly like silicone grease.

Plus, 200 ML of "waterproof paste" goes for about $26 online, but you can buy about the same amount of thick silicone grease all day long for $5-$8.

Calnago, you imply you're using Morgan Blue's product in place of antiseize for threaded parts. If that's what you're actually doing, be careful. Silicone grease won't prevent galling of similar metals. For example, threading titanium into titanium (or stainless into stainless) galls heavily and can seize, which is essentially the same thing. Silicone grease doesn't prevent galling. Morgan Blue doesn't claim to prevent it either.

Mllions of dollars have been sunk into R&D to come up with a non-anti-seize grease that can prevent galling. The aerospace industry has a few compounds, but they are eye-wateringly expensive. DuPont Krytox, for example, has some anti-seize properties and costs $175.00 (US) for an 8-ounce tube.

But Calnago has a point that conventional anti-seize is incredibly messy to work with. I've had very good luck with copper-based anti-seize tape:

https://www.lawsonproducts.com/Lawson/C ... e/98663.lp

I read that copper-based anti-seize will increase the galvanization process because it is conductive. is that true??

[wheelbuilder]

Reminders of Calnago