How many chainring sets have you got for your bike?

Discuss light weight issues concerning road bikes & parts.
Shrike
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by Shrike

Chainrings are doing my head in at the moment. I really want nice low gearing for certain days, so thinking about getting a compact inner for PB's on some climbs with silly gradients (I've now got a 32 on a wheel that actually works with my short cage SRAM RD! - it's good but it's given me a taste for more), but then I'm thinking the shifting will be even worse than it already is with my Q Rings if I go 52/34. And changing both chainrings is as fast as changing one with my cranks so I guess I should do both right? Or would you just go 52/34 and leave that on all the time as an all rounder if you could get it set up?

Then I have the other problem - the 52x11 isn't enough for going uber fast, I mean like over 50mph, you can't put all your power down if trying to TT down a lovely long gradient with a tailwind. This is rare where I live that you get this super fast day, but it is there and I can't capitalise on it. I'm spinning over 120 on my hardest gears which for me means I can't put all my power down, I'm not that good. 53 doesn't seem to help much more either (had a look at some gear ratio thing online), so what would you need for that? 54? 56? I don't even think my crankset can take that? Rotor 3D+ 110 BCD.

What are you guys doing, don't want to start throwing more money around unnecessarily.

by Weenie


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jekyll man
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by jekyll man

1 set - 39*53 mostly with a 12-25 cassette.

I alter my legs to suit.

If you're putting any power out at 50mph irrespective of gearing , you're a better man than me gungadin...
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DutchMountains
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by DutchMountains

I started out with a 34/46, went to 34/44 and am now very happy with 34/42 in combination with a 14-32 cassette. I can do 45km/h with this and for me this is sufficient.

Still on my list is to try 34/36 with a 11-40 cassette (half step shifting). For silly events like this that send you over things like Hardknott and Wrynose pass (with 25 - 33% gradients) after cycling for 500km :-)

Marin
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by Marin

I switched to 34/46 on my Sunday bike, i have no problem going quite fast with 46/11.

IMO if you need anything above 50/11 you should work on your cadence.

nickf
Posts: 549
Joined: Sat Mar 06, 2010 10:34 pm

by nickf

39\53 here with a 11-23 out back. If I need climbing gears I just swap out to a Apex rear derailleur, separate longer chain, and a 12-32 cassette. Much faster swap then removing crank, changing rings, and derr height.

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BRM
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by BRM

Shrike wrote:Chainrings are doing my head in at the moment.


And see here your problem . . .
Sorry to say. Every week you start, MULTIPLE topics and ALL are brainfarts.
You're really living in your own world.
Thanks for another senseless discussion.
Last edited by BRM on Tue May 30, 2017 6:00 pm, edited 2 times in total.

fromtrektocolnago
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by fromtrektocolnago

One set i'm on a mid-compact and a 11-28 rear cassette. It may not be perfect in every situation but its the best compromise I can think of.
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Shrike
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by Shrike

@ Marin, my average cadence on rides is over 100. Usually around 105. That's not my problem. Bet if we went through everyone's Strava you'd find mine's in the upper percentile for a roadie.

@ fromtrektocolnago same here, it's pretty much perfect for me where I live, rolling, hilly. But for the really hard stuff it's not efficient I'm finding :?

JScycle
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by JScycle

I find a 52/36 with an 11-28t cassette is pretty good. You could always squeeze a 11-32t on

RyanH
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by RyanH

There's only one place that I ever spin out on a 50x11 and that's during our Saturday ride where the lead out train hits 40 mph and the sprint tops out at 44 or 45 mph. I know quite a few guys that race Cat 1 on a 50t just fine. Really, if you're going downhill faster than 30 mph you should be coasting in a tuck. Unless you're doing the Tour of Gila TT or like to spin at a lower cadence, going bigger than 52 is really unnecessary.

Having one gearing that covers all situations is kind of silly though. For the most part, it's just not necessary. You can get a mid compact and a long cage rd and for the days you want to go for PB up a hill, put on a 11-36 and everything else an 11 to 28. Or, you can just go faster
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dolophonic
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by dolophonic

52-36
11-28 gets it all done.

2lo8
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by 2lo8

RyanH wrote:Having one gearing that covers all situations is kind of silly though. For the most part, it's just not necessary.

Don't call my triple silly.
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PinaF8
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by PinaF8

For me I am hovering from 52/36 to 53/39 with 11-25 depending on outdoor hill length climb.
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mattr
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by mattr

Shrike wrote: the 52x11 isn't enough for going uber fast, I mean like over 50mph, you can't put all your power down


RyanH wrote:Really, if you're going downhill faster than 30 mph you should be coasting in a tuck.


^^ this

Have a play around with the analytic cycling calculators.
At speeds over ~35 mph, getting into a full tuck, knees and elbows in, is equivalent to about 250W. 50 mph would be significantly more.

Mid compact + 11/28 should give you all the gears you need. Top and bottom end.

by Weenie


liam7020
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Joined: Tue Jul 27, 2010 10:04 am

by liam7020

BRM wrote:
Shrike wrote:Chainrings are doing my head in at the moment.


And see here your problem . . .
Sorry to say. Every week you start, MULTIPLE topics and ALL are brainfarts.
You're realy living in your own world.
Thanks for another senseless discussion.


Totally agree
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