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PostPosted: Mon May 22, 2017 3:04 pm 
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Posts: 5
Does anyone know if it is possible to get away with putting some spacers between the NDS crank arm (Ultegra 6800) and the bottom bracket (Shimano BB86 Pressfit)?

I've just purchased a 2nd hand Stages Gen2 Power Meter unit to find that because of my under bottom bracket brakes (Shimano BR-6810-R) there's not quite enough clearance to let the Stage model on the back of the crank arm pass the cable clamp on the brake module. :(

I only need about 2mm of extra room to get it all fitted and wondered if the 24mm Axle / BB Spacer by Wheels Manufacturing would work as a bodge? Or if I'm going to just be creating myself more problems?

Anyone know if you can get away with using a small number of spacers on a Hollowtech 2 crank / BB86 pressfit combo?


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PostPosted: Mon May 22, 2017 3:58 pm 
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i think using spacers is fine. i have 3 very thin on my pf30 setup and it works for me...


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Posted: Mon May 22, 2017 3:58 pm 


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PostPosted: Mon May 22, 2017 5:06 pm 
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jobvisser wrote:
i think using spacers is fine. i have 3 very thin on my pf30 setup and it works for me...


Thanks, Will give it a try and see what happens. Certainly a cheaper option to try first before I look at alternative brakes. TRP seems to come up by a few people that needed more space to fit their Stages.


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PostPosted: Mon May 22, 2017 5:57 pm 
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You can either get a wave spring (3mm??) http://amzn.to/2qHU03r or some delrin shims from wheels manufacturing http://amzn.to/2qNqda5 . The shim solution is probably better as it won't allow grit in there and give you better lateral support. Also, the spacers are cheap, so its not hard to try.


Last edited by jfranci3 on Mon May 22, 2017 6:05 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Mon May 22, 2017 6:00 pm 
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I'd get the trp brake. I'm having a similar issue with a Scott foil and the trp/tektro direct mount brakes with the "noodle" have much better clearance.

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

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PostPosted: Mon May 22, 2017 6:07 pm 
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I've ordered a few 1.0mm and 0.5mm BB Spacers from a UK distributor for Wheel Manufacturing to see if I can get away with it on the cheap :-) Will update on what the result is in a few days.


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PostPosted: Mon May 22, 2017 8:20 pm 
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Posts: 382
Location: NY USA
I filed the housing of the Stages to clear the rear brake on my Trek Madone. There was enough plastic to work with. I used the marks where I was already hitting the brakes as a guide.

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PostPosted: Mon May 22, 2017 8:44 pm 
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BikeAnon wrote:
I filed the housing of the Stages to clear the rear brake on my Trek Madone. There was enough plastic to work with. I used the marks where I was already hitting the brakes as a guide.


If you have a second gen. Stages crank, you don't need to do that. The housing is much narrower, and isn't an issue with the DA9000 under BB brake and the crank arm.

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PostPosted: Mon May 22, 2017 8:57 pm 
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I can't find it anymore right now, but someone here on the forum just filed down the brake arm itself somewhat. Seems like there is enough 'meat' on the brakes to do so.

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PostPosted: Mon May 22, 2017 8:59 pm 
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Found something. Pics are not great, but result may be enough for you.

http://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=118212&p=1065517&hilit=stages#p1065517

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PostPosted: Mon May 22, 2017 9:05 pm 
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Joined: Mon May 22, 2017 2:54 pm
Posts: 5
Wow, you boys take serious action to overcome a matter of mm's :-)

Thanks for all the info. As per normal, could not find such problems before had and not that I'm faced with it
... It's all over the web. D'OH!


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PostPosted: Wed May 24, 2017 9:26 pm 
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Posts: 5
Well, the spacers have arrived and the first test run has been completed. Short story = all good!

To try and minimise adjustment that I'm making to the bike, I've tried a singe 1mm spacer to create enough gap between the Stages module and the cable clamp on the rear break (which is a little tight but the seemed pass each other without sounding like they touch).

25 mins of riding on the indoor trainer later at various constant / ramps / sprint power output levels I checked to see of any signs of touching. There was just the slightest mark on the battery door, so I will likely put in a further 0.5mm spacer just to be on the safe side.

The added benefit after comparing (and I know that 2 sources does not prove anything) the output results between zPower on Zwift (using my Kurt Kinetic Road Machine) and those of the Stages Ultegra 6800 Gen2 are that I've been robbed of 50 watts all this time on the island... time to enter some races. FIT file comparison is here: http://bit.ly/stgvszpwr

Source of spacers: https://activesport.co/

Thanks to all those that replied... one very happy bunny :-)


Attachments:
File comment: Before space installation
before - Copy.jpg
before - Copy.jpg [ 8.35 KiB | Viewed 610 times ]
File comment: After space installation
after - Copy.jpg
after - Copy.jpg [ 8.12 KiB | Viewed 610 times ]
File comment: The 1mm spacer
spacer - Copy.jpg
spacer - Copy.jpg [ 4.32 KiB | Viewed 610 times ]
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 16, 2017 6:21 pm 
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Posts: 17
FIJIGabe wrote:
BikeAnon wrote:
I filed the housing of the Stages to clear the rear brake on my Trek Madone. There was enough plastic to work with. I used the marks where I was already hitting the brakes as a guide.


If you have a second gen. Stages crank, you don't need to do that. The housing is much narrower, and isn't an issue with the DA9000 under BB brake and the crank arm.


Is the DA9000 BB brake narrower than the Ultegra 6800? Hard to tell online because there are no tech specs or measurements.

I have the same problem and am using Ultegra. Might try filling/grinding the excess material off the caliper. It is a bit much. Will also try some narrow spacers.

It looks like eecycles, bontrager and tektro make calipers that work but hate throwing 200 + bucks at problem that can be easily fixed in the garage with a few tools.


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 16, 2017 6:34 pm 
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Joined: Sun Mar 02, 2014 6:36 pm
Posts: 382
Location: NY USA
With Ultegra 6800, you get the pinch-bolt setup that I wish was available on my setup.

Spacers seem like an easier fix for a crank with pinch-bolts, as you don't depend on just the center-bolt for retaining the arm.

You can add spacers, use the center-bolt to pull everything together, use the pinch-bolt to hold it all in place.

Image

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Posted: Thu Nov 16, 2017 6:34 pm 


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