Help me get below 17lbs for stock CAAD10 105... on the cheap

[Morghulis]

Thx for all the suggestions. Anyone else think I should swap the 105 shifters & derailleurs for the Rivals?

I posted in a separate thread asking for opinions about an Easton EA90 wheelset (newer tubeless ready version), but haven't yet got a response... I can get a lightly used set for $250... how would this stack up against the other wheelsets mentioned in this thread? The Easton's are actually listed in that Pan's guide as good value, but I can't find many user reviews on them.

[SL1]

2) Would switching from 105 to Rival be an upgrade and/or a significant weight reduction?

No. not really. They are similar in performance. Sram FORCE has the best weight savings/price ratio and performs closer to SRAM RED.

You also may or may not like the ergonomics of SRAM. Try to get a test ride of SRAM before making the change.

3) How about the brakes - worth switching? To make things more interesting I have a set of older ultegra brakes (circa 2007) that I could also use.

Brakes will probably be too expensive to replace - what is best choice between the Tektros, stock SRAM, and older Ultegra brakes?

Dont skimp on brakes. They are the most important component on your bike. It's the one area you should make an exception in. They can be bought in singles. You really only need a good front caliper. Upgrade to the latest if possible.
The newest 105 5800 or Ultegra 6800 perform far better than any older brakes because the new SLR-EV design has a roller cam mechanism to increase the power applied to the rims. They are worth the extra expense and weight for how well they work. Pick up a used set on Ebay.
Ideally you want to match the brake calipers to the same brand of STI levers so the cable pull will match and work correctly. Mixing and matching brands will effect the feel of modulation and power negatively.

5) Besides the wheelset (apparent 200g reduction), what other low cost (under $100) upgrades would shave off some weight - Are there any glaringly heavy components on the stock CAAD10 bikes - eg stem, handlebar, seatpost, saddle?

Depends what components you have C1,C2,C3,C4 ?

The C1,C2 stuff is decently light. The C3,C4 is on the porky side.

If you plan to keep them, try cutting 10mm-15mm off the ends of your handlebars. It wont save much but it all add ups.

If want to change. Ritchey WCS and PRO PLT handlebars have some of the best price to weight ratio's. And come up used on ebay all the time.

Change the bulky stock Cannondale headset expander to one of these. It could save around 40-50 grams off your stock expander
http://www.ebay.com/itm/J-L-Carbon-Stee ... SwqfNXmy4R

You may also need to buy a top cap + bolt
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Bike-Bicycle-Cy ... Sw0JpV6yAX

That Uno stem seems like a pretty good bang for the buck - anybody have experience with them?

viewtopic.php?f=3&t=116669

[oldturd]

Cheaper skewer option - J&L Ti skewers. I bought the non-quick release version.. 28g for the pair. $26 USD shipped from China.

Zero issues thus far..

[SL1]

I recall reading that the Veloflex tires are not compatible with carbon rims - I may be wrong on this though

Some carbon clincher wheels have sharper bead hook edges and can split the polycotton casing of tyres like the Veloflex's.

[flying]

The Zondas are over my wheel budget. What's wrong with the 6800 wheels? .

Not sure what country your in but I just bought the Zonda c17's from ProBikeKit
Was $335 total price with shipping to USA (They came in at 1532grams & ride really nice)

If your in the US that may be even cheaper than Ultegra

[vejnemojnen]

a pair of 48gram skewers does not cost that much

for the record, I've purchased-distributed around 15 pair of these, and never paid more than 7 usd-s...

[mpulsiv]

I see nothing but randomness. Word of advice - create a spreadsheet. That's what weight weenies do. Column "A" should be your existing parts on bike with weights. Column "B" should be your potential upgrades with weights and prices. This way you can see the delta side-by-side. It's that simple! Help us to help you.

[Morghulis]

a pair of 48gram skewers does not cost that much

for the record, I've purchased-distributed around 15 pair of these, and never paid more than 7 usd-s...

Thanks, I'll order a pair - might take a while to get to me though.

[Morghulis]

The Zondas are over my wheel budget. What's wrong with the 6800 wheels? .

Not sure what country your in but I just bought the Zonda c17's from ProBikeKit
Was $335 total price with shipping to USA (They came in at 1532grams & ride really nice)

If your in the US that may be even cheaper than Ultegra

Still slightly more than i want to spend on wheels right now and I'm not crazy about the spoke pattern - Do you think they are worth $100 more than the Vuelta lites? I mentioned the Easton EA90 SLs earlier, but came across a few negative reviews regarding quality - so I'll put these on the backburner too.

[2lo8]

2) Would switching from 105 to Rival be an upgrade and/or a significant weight reduction?

No. not really. They are similar in performance. Sram FORCE has the best weight savings/price ratio and performs closer to SRAM RED.

Performance upgrade? No, not really.

I wouldn't consider the ~200g weight difference between 105 and Rival levers + RD to be insignificant though. Otherwise I would be running Shimano instead of SRAM (Rival) on my WW bike.

What is really negligible is the difference between Rival and Force. For 22, FD is the same. RD is within a couple grams. Levers only have a 25g difference. The bulk of the weight loss over Rival (at least for 22) comes from the crankset, which is actually quite heavy for the current separate spider model. The old 10 speed Rival crank is about the same weight as the current Force 22 crank. The older 10 speed brakes are also within a few grams of Force brakes. The cassettes are within a few grams once you get an alloy lockring. The bulk of the weight savings between each SRAM group is in the crank.

Also unlike other people I have no problems with FSA cranks or Tektro brakes. Tektro brakes mostly just need some kool-stop pads or similar and they stop well, although maybe they don't operate quite as smooth. No problems with alloy FSA cranks, although they can be heavy for the alloy models. The carbon models have a history of bonding issues. The bad part of FSA is the bottom brackets.

[2lo8]

a pair of 48gram skewers does not cost that much

for the record, I've purchased-distributed around 15 pair of these, and never paid more than 7 usd-s...

I know they cost and weigh more, but it's worth it to get the 52g ones with the brass washers for $10. The plastic washers can give trouble after a while.

[Morghulis]

I know they cost and weigh more, but it's worth it to get the 52g ones with the brass washers for $10. The plastic washers can give trouble after a while.

Can you clarify which one's have the brass washers - the only plastic part in the pictured skewer seems to be next to the lever and I don't think this part is ever metal? There does not seem to be a washer at the other end.

[bremerradkurier]

1485g wheelset for $310 shipped if you have wheelbuilding skills or know someone who does.

http://bdopcycling.com/DIY%20Alloy%20Road%20Wheel%20Kit%20II.asp

[2lo8]

Thee Lixada brand Ti skewers have the brass washer under the lever. Price is lower now than it was before at $9. It's also on newer versions of generic ones. AEST appears to be old stock or still use plastic washers.

[Morghulis]

Depends what components you have C1,C2,C3,C4 ?

The C1,C2 stuff is decently light. The C3,C4 is on the porky side.

If you plan to keep them, try cutting 10mm-15mm off the ends of your handlebars. It wont save much but it all add ups.

If want to change. Ritchey WCS and PRO PLT handlebars have some of the best price to weight ratio's. And come up used on ebay all the time.

Good call on the cannondale components.. I swapped out a c3 seatpost for a c2.. saved about 100g. Both handlebars are c3.