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PostPosted: Sun May 14, 2017 5:57 pm 
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Joined: Sun May 14, 2017 4:48 pm
Posts: 21
I posted a similar request in another biking forum, but this one seems more appropriate for advice about weight reduction.

My goal is to get the bike including pedals under 17lbs.

The bike is a 52cm 2012 CAAD10 5 which is currently pretty much stock - 105 derailleurs, 105 shifters, Tektro Brakes, Gossamer FSA compact crankset, RS10 wheels. I also have a women's CAAD10 with which I can switch parts to improve the men's CAAD10 that I'll be keeping. The women's version (I think 2012 too) comes with Sram Rival derailleurs, Sram Rival Shifters, Sram brakes, Sram Force compact Crankset and the same RS10 wheels.

1) It seems the consensus is get rid of the stock FSA crankset - so I'm assuming that I can simply switch cranksets between the bikes as they both have BB30 bottom brackets?

2) Would switching from 105 to Rival be an upgrade and/or a significant weight reduction?

3) How about the brakes - worth switching? To make things more interesting I have a set of older ultegra brakes (circa 2007) that I could also use.

4) Wheelset: I'm leaning towards an Ultegra 6800 wheelset - no rush on this so I'm open to other suggestions for a sub $300 wheelset (I don't mind used).

5) Besides the wheelset (apparent 200g reduction), what other low cost (under $100) upgrades would shave off some weight - Are there any glaringly heavy components on the stock CAAD10 bikes - eg stem, handlebar, seatpost, saddle?

My inspiration for this project was a post I saw a while ago on this forum from a user who upgraded his same model black CAAD10 with gumwalls which looked outstanding to me. Although, I'm not going for the large scale weight reduction that user achieved, I would like to get a similar overall look. I've already ordered Veloflex gumwalls to replace the green Pro4s on the bike.

The first pic below is exactly how I purchased the bike (weight 19.00lbs). The following picture is after I removed the pie disc, pedals, reflector, some type of accessory collar from seatpost, and reversed the stem (weight 17.91lbs). When I dial in the fit, I'll likely cut the steerer tube and seatpost.

Image
Image


Last edited by Morghulis on Sun May 14, 2017 6:21 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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Posted: Sun May 14, 2017 5:57 pm 


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PostPosted: Sun May 14, 2017 5:59 pm 
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Joined: Sun May 14, 2017 4:48 pm
Posts: 21
Not sure why pictures are not showing up - when I right click on an image and open in a diff tab, they are visible. Will try work it out.

Solved - apparently google pic hosting service is not compatible so I used another option.


Last edited by Morghulis on Sun May 14, 2017 6:23 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sun May 14, 2017 6:13 pm 
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Joined: Fri Nov 08, 2013 7:11 pm
Posts: 291
wheels? zondas from probikekit (1550 grams).
kalloy uno stem from ebay (115 grams in 120mm), and the cheapest noname handlebar tape (32 grams in pairs with plugs)
for brakes, either a set of promax rc471 (reparto corse , they weigh 292 grams in pairs with stock pads.. significantly lighter than 105 or ultegra..)

shifters-derailleurs: rival or force.

and a pair of latex tubes...


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PostPosted: Sun May 14, 2017 6:19 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jan 27, 2016 5:33 am
Posts: 99
Location: Prescott, AZ
I would start with the wheels and tires. You can pick up a chinese carbon clincher wheelset for under $300 that easily weighs less than 1500g. If your uneasy about chinese stuff, you can also go the handbuilt route with a super light alloy wheelset build.

Tires are another huge factor. Not just in weight, but general performance as well. If you want the lightest possible, you can pick up the 20c Continental Supersonic tires for about $50 a pop. They weigh an astonishing 140g per tire. The 23c version is 150g. However, they are for racing only and dont offer any flat protection. The Grand Prix TT is another great choice. 170g per tire, and a mild flat protection belt. The tire wears fast, but protection is atleast adequate and they are blazing fast. For a more training oriented tire that doesnt weigh a ton, you could try the Vittoria Corsa Open G+ or the 4000S, but then your getting up there in weight... Alot of tires that come on a stock bike weight 250-300g a piece.

Tubes are yet another cheap area for an upgrade. A good light tube such as the Michelin aircomp ultralight weighs about 75g. A typical cheapo tube from the LBS is usually 125g-150g...

As far as swapping over components, have at it! Get yourself a simple kitchen scale, start taking the bikes apart and weighing everything. The Tektro brakes you have are likely very heavy. Id bet those Ultegra brakes are lighter.

You can also get chinese carbon seatposts, water bottle cages, seatclamps, skewers etc... All the little things can really add up.


Last edited by eyedrop on Sun May 14, 2017 6:24 pm, edited 3 times in total.

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PostPosted: Sun May 14, 2017 6:21 pm 
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Joined: Tue Feb 19, 2013 3:24 am
Posts: 125
Skewers?

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PostPosted: Sun May 14, 2017 6:36 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jan 27, 2016 5:33 am
Posts: 99
Location: Prescott, AZ
It looks like you have decently light tires at 200g a pair. Not bad. Could be a little better in RR and weight, but I would just wait till you wear those Pro 4 out then get a Grand Prix TT, Corsa Speed, or something similar. Those Veloflex gumwall will look stunning though!

So yeah, I would say upgrade the wheels first for sure. That will give you the most bang for your buck. A 35mm deep carbon wheelset will give you a nice aero upgrade and be lighter as well. Crankset would be next. Followed by all the little stuff, especially skewers and stem.

I wouldnt worry about the seat if its very comfortable. If its not comfortable, get one that is. Dont worry about the weight.


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PostPosted: Sun May 14, 2017 7:32 pm 
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Joined: Sun May 14, 2017 4:48 pm
Posts: 21
Ok, so just for starters... as far as switching components between the bikes - I'll definitely switch the crankset. However, is anyone of the opinion that I should keep the 105 derailleurs/shifters or is this also an obvious upgrade for weight/performance? Anyone have any idea what the weight difference is between 105/Rival derailleurs and shifters for the 2012 versions?

As mentioned, I already ordered these gumwalls http://www.wiggle.com/veloflex-master-25-clincher-folding-road-tire/ They may not be the lightest (205g ea), but I'm obsessed with the black frame/gumwall look. I'll add some lightweight tubes to go with these wheels - the Michelin tubes referenced above seem to be specced for up to 23mm which would not fit - how about the Conti Race tubes or any other suggestions?

Still deciding on wheels - currently considering Ultegra WH6800, Vuelta Corsa Lite, but still open to other suggestions. I'll probably skip the carbon wheels for now as it appears I may then need to replace my brake pads and I recall reading that the Veloflex tires are not compatible with carbon rims - I may be wrong on this though. Brakes will probably be too expensive to replace - what is best choice between the Tektros, stock SRAM, and older Ultegra brakes?

As far as other components are concerned, it looks like replacing the stem may be next on the list. That Uno stem seems like a pretty good bang for the buck - anybody have experience with them? I also plan to weigh the stock stem to see if it is even worth doing - or if anyone knows the stock weight, please post.


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PostPosted: Sun May 14, 2017 8:06 pm 
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Joined: Mon Apr 04, 2011 6:53 pm
Posts: 24
When you have cranks and wheels like that your #1 priority should be to get better ones, they will be lighter and work better.


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PostPosted: Sun May 14, 2017 8:07 pm 
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Joined: Mon Apr 04, 2011 6:53 pm
Posts: 24
Don't get 6800 wheels get campy or fulcrums, zonda c17 is the best deal going, keep the 105 shifting parts.


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PostPosted: Sun May 14, 2017 8:17 pm 
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Joined: Sun May 14, 2017 4:48 pm
Posts: 21
spartacus wrote:
Don't get 6800 wheels get campy or fulcrums, zonda c17 is the best deal going, keep the 105 shifting parts.


The Zondas are over my wheel budget. What's wrong with the 6800 wheels? - Overall they receive outstanding reviews. I should have mentioned previously, a priority is also durability as I will use the wheelset for training and occasional racing in the future.

So at least one vote to keep the 105 shifters/derailleurs.


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PostPosted: Sun May 14, 2017 11:06 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jan 27, 2016 5:33 am
Posts: 99
Location: Prescott, AZ
You cant go wrong with Shimano wheels as far as durability is concerned. The 6800 wheels are durable, but weigh 1640g. Not super heavy, but not light by any means. You might find yourself wanting to upgrade sooner than later.

However, it sounds like you just want to get it to 17lbs and you will be happy. In that case, I would try upgrading the skewers, seatpost clamp, seatpost, and stem and see where that lands you. That would be the cheap way to get started atleast. And in the meantime, save up for the wheels. It seems like the $500-$750 price range is the sweet spot for wheels, where your getting sub 1500g while still maintaining good durability. I have the Shimano RS81 wheels and they are wonderful. Light enough to consider race worthy, yet still reasonably priced and bombproof. The 6800 wheels are more of a good training wheelset, but would not be ideal if your doing any climbing or racing. You basically want to spend as much as possible on the wheels. That will give you the most bang for your buck. After $750, your not gonna see a big difference. But the difference between a $300 set and a $600 set can be pretty big. Ive seen sub 1300g wheelsets built under $750.


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PostPosted: Tue May 16, 2017 2:11 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jan 27, 2016 5:33 am
Posts: 99
Location: Prescott, AZ
Morghulis wrote:

I'll add some lightweight tubes to go with these wheels - the Michelin tubes referenced above seem to be specced for up to 23mm which would not fit - how about the Conti Race tubes or any other suggestions?



You can still get away with using 23c tubes on 25 or even 28 tires. But if you insist, the Schwalbe Extra Light tubes are specced to 28c, and are even lighter than the Aircomp tubes. Continental Race are fine tubes, just a little heavy at 105g. Schwalbe Extra Light are only 67g.

The reason I prefer the Aircomp is they seem more reliable. Ive had problems with slow tiny leaks on the Schwalbe. The rubber is super thin, and the valve cores never seem fully tightened from the factory. I mean, they still work OK. Just more of a PITA. Almost like a Latex tube...


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PostPosted: Tue May 16, 2017 7:02 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jun 09, 2015 3:18 pm
Posts: 58
Location: New England
Free upgrades: Cut your steerer tube and get lower.

$10-40: Lightweight Innertubes, Tires, Chain (I'm a big KMC fan) $40

$50: Cassette to 10sp Ultegra, Brakes to the SRAM ones

$150: Lightweight saddle. I've had the Prologo Kappa before and it's heavy. You can save 50g easily here.

$300: Wheels: The wheels on your RS10 are about 1850g.
Use my Pan's Price-Weight Wheel Guide and you'll find that Fulcrum Racing 3's are the lightest sub $500 wheelset you can buy pre-built off the shelf. I prefer them over Ultegra wheels and these are the wheels that stay on my endurance bike.
This will save you 300g from your RS10's which is 2/3rds of a full pound. That's the most significant weight savings in this list, in my opinion.

$200 Crankset: Your FSA Gossamers are 770g. Pretty heavy. Sram Force or Shimano Ultegra crankset should cost you less than $200USD and lose $100g

_________________
2017 Pinarello F8 Dura Ace 9100 @ 7.5kg
2013 Bianchi Infinito 105 @ 8.2kg
1982 Colnago Super Single Speed @ 8.6kg


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PostPosted: Tue May 16, 2017 7:07 pm 
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Joined: Fri Sep 25, 2015 5:13 pm
Posts: 245
cheap (sorta)
- KCNC ti skewers
- Helix CF seat post with ti bolts
- UNO stem with ti bolts
- SRAM Force 22 brakes
- tires
- carbon seat (if you dare, haha)

no el-cheapo
- crank
- wheel


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PostPosted: Tue May 16, 2017 7:45 pm 
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Joined: Fri Nov 04, 2016 3:43 pm
Posts: 40
Morghulis wrote:
What's wrong with the 6800 wheels?


They are a nightmare to get tyres on and off.


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Posted: Tue May 16, 2017 7:45 pm 


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