Road Disc Brakes- Rotor Choice

Discuss light weight issues concerning road bikes & parts.
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Joined: Fri Jun 23, 2017 5:09 am

by lobuxracer

The car guys figured out 40 years ago that beryllium makes awesome brake discs. Super light, very heat tolerant, but sadly ridiculously toxic. Next best thing is aluminum plasma sprayed with stainless steel. Motorcycles were using that in the late 80's and 90's. Now we have carbon fiber discs. Haven't seen those for bicycles yet though. Probably not enough heat to make them work well unless the discs are tiny, and that's not fashionable so it won't sell.
lance - no, not that guy, I started racing in 1976.
1980 A-D Ultima
1999 Softride TT
2013 Cervelo S5 Team LE

by Weenie

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by jlok

Remember SiCCC? Where is it now?

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by mdeth1313

Yeah, this turned out to be a waste of time. I went with ashima as I asked for 6 bolt suggestions. Amazingly enough, they stop far better than any rim brakes I've ever used.
Speedplay is the devil!

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by Vjl

TRP 25 Rotor

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by jfranci3

For rotors, just remember the floating rotors aren't the same as a car design rotor, which allows for some centering movement to the pads. The bike versions just mean that they are dual materials riveted together. Even the AbolutueBlack 'True" floating rotors don't float, they can only move radially out

Also, the lighter the weight, the worse off the braking capacity per braking event (think series of stops). If you remove weight, you're typically losing heat storage capacity.

Question, despite having TRP Hy/Rd which are self centering, I still get rub when the slightest change occurs to my skewer and from one wheelset to the next. Does anyone make a centerlock shim set? Is there a way to leave tolerance in the lockring?

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by jlok

jfranci3 wrote:The bike versions just mean that they are dual materials riveted together.


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by jfranci3

Yep. "Custom steel braking surface riveted to an aluminium central carrier"

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by thumper88

Have you been able to tell how the floaters respond, if at all, to heavy mud buildup?

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by jfranci3

Why would mud be an issue?

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by ms6073

jfranci3 wrote:Why would mud be an issue?

Based on experience racing cyclocross, the more slots/vents in the braking surface of the rotor, then the more likely they are to accumulate mud which then acts like an abrasive, drastically accelerating pad wear. While not really a suitable comparison now that there is wide spread availability of hydraulic calipers for road and cross, at the CX Masters worlds in 2013, I raced with TRP Spyre mechanical calipers and wore through a brand new set of Metallic pads during nearly 50-minutes of racing in heavy mud, slush, and ice. A year later, I wore through another set of pads during a week of touring with he wife, riding along the gravel/mixed surfaces of the Great Allegheny Passage where we got rain and mud on a regular basis. That as one of the driving factor behind my jumping on board the Kickstarter campaign for Silicon Carbide-Ceramic-Carbon (SiCCC) which featured solid braking surfaces.
Last edited by ms6073 on Fri Sep 15, 2017 5:53 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Michael - The Anaerobic Threshold is neither...

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by jfranci3

You mean small holes manage mud better or large slots manage mud better? You're going to need some relief to act as a scraper. Obviously mud varies quite a bit.

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by moyboy

Running RT-99 on mine too.

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by commendatore

For muddy conditions I've heard of people swapping to an avid clean sweep rotor to prevent pad wear associated with picking up a lot of mud

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by MichaelB

For road use, I've tried some different types (6 bolt and centrelock) - including Avid HSX, SRAM Centerline, Hayes V7 & V5 and Ice-Tech over the last 6 years. This includes local rides in Aus as well as a 2 week alpine ride in the Dolomites, Lake Como and in France.

For 6 bolt, I think the RT-86 Ice-Tech are the best hands down. SRAM Centreline & Hayes were good, but not quite up to the same std.

by Weenie

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by MoPho

I haven't had much luck with the ice-tech rotors. For some reason I was getting an issue where the pads were pulsing and scraping over the vent cut-outs on the rotors as I got below 20mph under harder braking. Changed pads and it would go away for a little while, then come back. Same if I changed rotors and/or cleaned and sanded the pads. Tried both RT99 and RT81 140mm and 160mm. Same thing every time. Seems I am the only one with this issue as none of the other disc guys around here are experiencing it with the ice tech.
Now trying the Sram Centerline and the issue has gone away seemingly because of the shape of the venting, but not sure yet if the braking is as good with them. Already had a hard stop from 40-0 mph that overheated the rotors, may have been an anomaly.


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