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PostPosted: Mon Sep 25, 2017 6:05 am 
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Joined: Thu Mar 09, 2017 5:35 am
Posts: 134
ooo wrote:
For disc + rim brake may be better to to use good mechanical disc brakes, like TRP Spyre

Shimano tried to make same design for new ultegra,
but r8020+r8000 doesn't look similar,
di2 r8050+r8070 is ok to combine rim + hydro disc sti

I'd never bother with a mech disk, I'd just stay with rim.


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Posted: Mon Sep 25, 2017 6:05 am 


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 25, 2017 7:22 am 
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Joined: Mon Jul 24, 2017 12:02 pm
Posts: 560
Lewn777 wrote:
I'd never bother with a mech disk, I'd just stay with rim.


Elaborate because my actual experience has been different. I used TRP Spyre calipers with SRAM eTap shifters, Jagwire Elite Link cables, SwissStop Disc E pads. Initial lever throw had slightly more resistance, but once the pads contacted the rotor, the modulation was there. Hy/Rd calipers take things a step farther by making the lever throw feel even more like a fully hydraulic system. The Spyres required manually adjusting pad distance every month or so, but that didn't bother me much. You knew from lever feel when it was time to quarter turn the adjustment screws. Now that my new bike has eTap HRD, the improvements in brake feel are not a revelation. Everything is incrementally better. The biggest change is the initial pull on the lever being less sticky.

I would definitely recommend either TRP Spyres or Hy/Rds to anyone looking to reuse their existing brake/shift levers on a future disc build.


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 25, 2017 12:33 pm 
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Joined: Thu Mar 09, 2017 5:35 am
Posts: 134
TobinHatesYou wrote:
Lewn777 wrote:
I'd never bother with a mech disk, I'd just stay with rim.


Elaborate because my actual experience has been different. I used TRP Spyre calipers with SRAM eTap shifters, Jagwire Elite Link cables, SwissStop Disc E pads. Initial lever throw had slightly more resistance, but once the pads contacted the rotor, the modulation was there. Hy/Rd calipers take things a step farther by making the lever throw feel even more like a fully hydraulic system. The Spyres required manually adjusting pad distance every month or so, but that didn't bother me much. You knew from lever feel when it was time to quarter turn the adjustment screws. Now that my new bike has eTap HRD, the improvements in brake feel are not a revelation. Everything is incrementally better. The biggest change is the initial pull on the lever being less sticky.

I would definitely recommend either TRP Spyres or Hy/Rds to anyone looking to reuse their existing brake/shift levers on a future disc build.

Sorry, I should have made myself more clear. The situation is that I live in a dry area, and I'm more than happy with the performance of my Shimano 105 brakes on DT Swiss rims, in fact I'm thinking of upgrading to a lighter rim brake.

However with the possibility of running a four pot MTB DH caliper on the front of the bike, then I think the 300 grams it would add would be worth it just for maybe a bit of engineering curiosity, at least to investigate if it's really a feasible or a desirable idea. As great as the reputation of TRP Spyres, and I'm sure they are great brakes that would make a fantastic affordable upgrade especially in a hilly and wet region, it's not something that interests me in my current circumstances.


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 23, 2017 8:27 pm 
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Joined: Thu Apr 14, 2016 11:01 am
Posts: 53
Location: France
Not a lot of idea on this thread ;) Nothing under 100g (160mm) with good braking power ?
I'm with Ashima Ai2, ok for the rear but not enough power on front. Centerline 6 bolts installed this evening but 116g... hurt my building weight list !


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 23, 2017 8:55 pm 
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Joined: Sat Dec 17, 2016 7:28 pm
Posts: 140
I use Galfer rotors. About 85grams (claimed 79g). They are ok and even with 6 bolts to centerlock adapters i save about 30 grams compared to Shimano SMRT99 in total (for 2 rotors) ..


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 24, 2017 9:04 am 
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Joined: Thu Apr 14, 2016 11:01 am
Posts: 53
Location: France
Never hear about this one, seem to be good, thanks !
Image


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 24, 2017 12:25 pm 
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Joined: Thu Mar 12, 2015 12:44 pm
Posts: 70
Location: Stockholm, Sweden
Will soon be building up a disc braked road bike with most likely a Sram Force 22 groupset. Sram says to use 160 mm rotors for road use but for aesthetics I'd prefer them smaller. Anyone have experience using Centerline X 140 mm rotors for road use? Or anyone tried the new Shimano Ultegra RT-800 rotors in general or with Sram calipers in particular?

This bike will be used by a fairly light (probably around 70 kg) rider though as he is a newbie and not a very courageous descender there may be some brake dragging going on. The terrain around here is mostly rolling but we have absolutely nothing that could be called mountains and barely any proper hills.


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 24, 2017 1:19 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jan 03, 2013 5:02 pm
Posts: 236
MayhemSWE wrote:
Will soon be building up a disc braked road bike with most likely a Sram Force 22 groupset. Sram says to use 160 mm rotors for road use but for aesthetics I'd prefer them smaller. Anyone have experience using Centerline X 140 mm rotors for road use? Or anyone tried the new Shimano Ultegra RT-800 rotors in general or with Sram calipers in particular?

This bike will be used by a fairly light (probably around 70 kg) rider though as he is a newbie and not a very courageous descender there may be some brake dragging going on. The terrain around here is mostly rolling but we have absolutely nothing that could be called mountains and barely any proper hills.


140 should be fine, I'd personally go 160 F 140 R.


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 24, 2017 1:33 pm 
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Joined: Sun Nov 15, 2009 12:27 am
Posts: 81
140mm rotors are fine unless you ride very hilly roads with long decents, I have 160 f and 140 r and I think the 160 in the front is alittle overkill most of the time. Centerline x 140mm rotors or rt-99 are very good, stop well and are silent nothing bad to say about them I think it comes down to which rotor you think looks better.


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 09, 2018 6:38 pm 
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Joined: Sat Aug 09, 2014 7:52 pm
Posts: 210
are there any material differences between ultegra and dura ace rotors? 10g difference for the 140mm


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 09, 2018 8:13 pm 
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Joined: Sun Nov 05, 2017 1:33 pm
Posts: 7
5DII wrote:
are there any material differences between ultegra and dura ace rotors? 10g difference for the 140mm
Anodized vs Painted spider. No difference in the materials. Tech specs speak of 8g @ 140mm and 10g @ 160mm difference.


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 10, 2018 7:18 am 
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Joined: Sun Jun 29, 2014 1:27 pm
Posts: 507
simoncx wrote:
140mm rotors are fine unless you ride very hilly roads with long decents, I have 160 f and 140 r and I think the 160 in the front is alittle overkill most of the time. Centerline x 140mm rotors or rt-99 are very good, stop well and are silent nothing bad to say about them I think it comes down to which rotor you think looks better.
What pads are you using for the silence? I'm guessing not metallic sintered.


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 10, 2018 9:02 am 
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Joined: Wed Sep 27, 2017 11:02 am
Posts: 18
Location: Surrey, UK
Verified weights on my scales for interest of the new shimano r9100 and r8000 series rotors

160mm ultegra (silver fin): 126g
140mm ultegra (silver fin): 106g

Then I was a tart and decided to send those back and get the dura ace ones
160mm dura ace (black fin): 118g (-8g)
140mm dura ace (black fin): 101g (-5g)

(Sorry for no pics!)


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 12, 2018 12:57 am 
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Joined: Sun Nov 15, 2009 12:27 am
Posts: 81
superdx wrote:
simoncx wrote:
140mm rotors are fine unless you ride very hilly roads with long decents, I have 160 f and 140 r and I think the 160 in the front is alittle overkill most of the time. Centerline x 140mm rotors or rt-99 are very good, stop well and are silent nothing bad to say about them I think it comes down to which rotor you think looks better.
What pads are you using for the silence? I'm guessing not metallic sintered.
I've been using the organic sram and shimano, I've never used the metallic ones unless it's a very muddy mtb or cross race. So far they have been pretty silent for the most part, after I wash the bike sometimes there loud for the first couple hard stops and it goes away. One thing I learned is I always cover the rotor and caliper with a rag when cleaning my chain because even the smallest bit of degreaser gets in the pads and they squeal like crazy.


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Posted: Fri Jan 12, 2018 12:57 am 


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