Road Disc Brakes- Rotor Choice
Moderator: robbosmans
Remember SiCCC? Where is it now?
Rikulau V9 DB Custom < BMC TM02 < Litespeed T1sl Disc < Giant Propel Advanced SL Disc 1 < Propel Adv < TCR Adv SL Disc < KTM Revelator Sky < CAAD 12 Disc < Domane S Disc < Alize < CAAD 10
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For rotors, just remember the floating rotors aren't the same as a car design rotor, which allows for some centering movement to the pads. The bike versions just mean that they are dual materials riveted together. Even the AbolutueBlack 'True" floating rotors don't float, they can only move radially out
Also, the lighter the weight, the worse off the braking capacity per braking event (think series of stops). If you remove weight, you're typically losing heat storage capacity.
Question, despite having TRP Hy/Rd which are self centering, I still get rub when the slightest change occurs to my skewer and from one wheelset to the next. Does anyone make a centerlock shim set? Is there a way to leave tolerance in the lockring?
Also, the lighter the weight, the worse off the braking capacity per braking event (think series of stops). If you remove weight, you're typically losing heat storage capacity.
Question, despite having TRP Hy/Rd which are self centering, I still get rub when the slightest change occurs to my skewer and from one wheelset to the next. Does anyone make a centerlock shim set? Is there a way to leave tolerance in the lockring?
jfranci3 wrote:The bike versions just mean that they are dual materials riveted together.
This?
Rikulau V9 DB Custom < BMC TM02 < Litespeed T1sl Disc < Giant Propel Advanced SL Disc 1 < Propel Adv < TCR Adv SL Disc < KTM Revelator Sky < CAAD 12 Disc < Domane S Disc < Alize < CAAD 10
Yep. "Custom steel braking surface riveted to an aluminium central carrier" http://www.hopetech.com/product/disc-rotors/#tech
jfranci3 wrote:Why would mud be an issue?
Based on experience racing cyclocross, the more slots/vents in the braking surface of the rotor, then the more likely they are to accumulate mud which then acts like an abrasive, drastically accelerating pad wear. While not really a suitable comparison now that there is wide spread availability of hydraulic calipers for road and cross, at the CX Masters worlds in 2013, I raced with TRP Spyre mechanical calipers and wore through a brand new set of Metallic pads during nearly 50-minutes of racing in heavy mud, slush, and ice. A year later, I wore through another set of pads during a week of touring with he wife, riding along the gravel/mixed surfaces of the Great Allegheny Passage where we got rain and mud on a regular basis. That as one of the driving factor behind my jumping on board the Kickstarter campaign for Silicon Carbide-Ceramic-Carbon (SiCCC) which featured solid braking surfaces.
Last edited by ms6073 on Fri Sep 15, 2017 5:53 pm, edited 1 time in total.
- Michael
"People should stop expecting normal from me... seriously, we all know it's never going to happen"
"People should stop expecting normal from me... seriously, we all know it's never going to happen"
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For muddy conditions I've heard of people swapping to an avid clean sweep rotor to prevent pad wear associated with picking up a lot of mud
For road use, I've tried some different types (6 bolt and centrelock) - including Avid HSX, SRAM Centerline, Hayes V7 & V5 and Ice-Tech over the last 6 years. This includes local rides in Aus as well as a 2 week alpine ride in the Dolomites, Lake Como and in France.
For 6 bolt, I think the RT-86 Ice-Tech are the best hands down. SRAM Centreline & Hayes were good, but not quite up to the same std.
For 6 bolt, I think the RT-86 Ice-Tech are the best hands down. SRAM Centreline & Hayes were good, but not quite up to the same std.
I haven't had much luck with the ice-tech rotors. For some reason I was getting an issue where the pads were pulsing and scraping over the vent cut-outs on the rotors as I got below 20mph under harder braking. Changed pads and it would go away for a little while, then come back. Same if I changed rotors and/or cleaned and sanded the pads. Tried both RT99 and RT81 140mm and 160mm. Same thing every time. Seems I am the only one with this issue as none of the other disc guys around here are experiencing it with the ice tech.
Now trying the Sram Centerline and the issue has gone away seemingly because of the shape of the venting, but not sure yet if the braking is as good with them. Already had a hard stop from 40-0 mph that overheated the rotors, may have been an anomaly.
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Now trying the Sram Centerline and the issue has gone away seemingly because of the shape of the venting, but not sure yet if the braking is as good with them. Already had a hard stop from 40-0 mph that overheated the rotors, may have been an anomaly.
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FWIW...it may not be the rotor. What about your caliper? Not sure which caliper you are using, but the pistons of some calipers don't retract very well. I've been having issues with my front RS685 caliper. Bled the brake and it is now better, but not quite perfect.
MoPho wrote:I haven't had much luck with the ice-tech rotors. For some reason I was getting an issue where the pads were pulsing and scraping over the vent cut-outs on the rotors as I got below 20mph under harder braking. Changed pads and it would go away for a little while, then come back. Same if I changed rotors and/or cleaned and sanded the pads. Tried both RT99 and RT81 140mm and 160mm. Same thing every time. Seems I am the only one with this issue as none of the other disc guys around here are experiencing it with the ice tech.
Now trying the Sram Centerline and the issue has gone away seemingly because of the shape of the venting, but not sure yet if the braking is as good with them. Already had a hard stop from 40-0 mph that overheated the rotors, may have been an anomaly.
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