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PostPosted: Thu May 04, 2017 11:56 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jan 27, 2016 1:39 pm
Posts: 678
glepore wrote:
Not exactly Rich. I'm waxing, but stripping old wax or grunge off after 500 mi or so dry use with a us and cleaner. Its the method advocated by moltenspeedwax etc. Yes, you could just dump your chain in the wax without cleaning, but that's not necessarily optimal.


gotcha... I may do that too. Just started about a month ago, so still experimenting. Tried just dumping it in without cleaning, also tied doing a pretty thorough wipe down of the exterior with Pro-Gold towels... that seems to work fine. I can get the outside completely clean. I'm just amazed at how clean the chain stays through use. I'm changing at about 500 miles too... I could stretch it more miles, I'm sure because the chain isn't squeaking or anything. It just starts to get chattery by 500 or so.

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PostPosted: Thu May 04, 2017 11:58 pm 
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Joined: Thu Mar 28, 2013 4:42 pm
Posts: 864
Location: Pa USA
Not exactly. I'm not using their product, just pure paraffin and ptfe, similar but without the moly. Yes, I get 4-500 dry miles. Is the chain optimal after more than than the first 150 or so? Not in the sense of there being any gain (other than cleanliness). Its still rideable and quiet. Keep in mind that I'm light and small.


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Posted: Thu May 04, 2017 11:58 pm 


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PostPosted: Fri May 05, 2017 12:41 am 
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Joined: Wed Jun 08, 2011 6:08 am
Posts: 836
Ultrasonic cleaner is unnecessary. Put chain in a mason jar with solvent. Give it a few shakes. Blow with air compressor.


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PostPosted: Fri May 05, 2017 8:50 am 
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Joined: Wed Sep 14, 2016 8:33 pm
Posts: 21
Clean with turps and use squirt. This chain has 250km+ since clean.

Image


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PostPosted: Fri May 05, 2017 9:55 am 
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Joined: Sat Feb 18, 2012 10:21 pm
Posts: 20
Baby wipes on the on the chain and drive train after every ride keep it looking new. Takes less than 5 minutes. Oil the chain every 250km. My chain typically lasts around 6000km and I can't remember ever having worn out a cassette or chainring.


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PostPosted: Fri May 05, 2017 3:07 pm 
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Joined: Sun Mar 16, 2014 3:43 pm
Posts: 817
I'm exited, finally a topic about chain cleaning and lubing! :P
Why noone started such a discussion before?

:roll:


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PostPosted: Fri May 05, 2017 5:38 pm 
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Joined: Mon Apr 03, 2006 8:53 am
Posts: 806
WOW I can't believe it BRM has helped someone, oh wait none of the threads he listed are about the OP... : ) and I would bet that most of user in those posts have changed what they do.

and a cool fact only one thread is from 2017 and most are 2015 or older.

2015
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C

Thanks again BRM for making weightweenies better!!! YOU ARE THE MAN!!!!!


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PostPosted: Fri May 05, 2017 6:42 pm 
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Joined: Sun Mar 16, 2014 3:43 pm
Posts: 817
You have a difficulty with interpretation. Always trying to make my posts ridiculous, instead of examining my strong arguments.
The reality is that most of my posts are helpful.
You are not out on normal discussion you are only out on giving me names and to create a conflict.
It says something about your person.

A clean drivetrain is part of the things discussed in chainlube/chaincleaning etc/ etc topics.
Things that are discussed many many times.
People like you live in their own world and do nothing with valid arguments. It marks you.
The topic sumup is just for indication that the discussion is nothing new, many more topics than I bring forward.
That is the essence.


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PostPosted: Fri May 05, 2017 6:58 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jun 03, 2016 5:08 pm
Posts: 974
BRM.

Seek. Help.


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PostPosted: Fri May 05, 2017 10:01 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jul 12, 2016 3:58 am
Posts: 75
Im one of those local scene guys. Constant cleaning. My bikes never go more than a week without a full drivetrain clean. I use a park tool chain gang style tool on the chain and then re-lube. 30 seconds. Degrees and floss cassette with rag. 2-3 minutes. Clean chainrings. 30 seconds. Five minutes at the most and there's the added bonus of extending drivetrain life. Also, I use a dry chain lube in most cases so that helps for sure. Either wd-40 dry or white lightning ceramic dry

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PostPosted: Sat May 06, 2017 1:49 am 
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Joined: Thu Jul 19, 2012 6:09 pm
Posts: 1110
Location: Loveland, CO
Am I the in the minority to think that too much cleaning can actually hurt the bike? As in water intrusion into bearings causing diluted grease and rust. Recently I discovered that the non-drive side of my Praxis BB converter had a damaged bearing. I removed the seal and the bearing was dry. I see grease on the other side, opposite of the seal side. And it appears the grease has been pushed out by water. Now I use a wet rag to wipe down the bike. I stopped using soap and water.


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PostPosted: Sat May 06, 2017 2:21 am 
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Joined: Mon Apr 27, 2015 4:36 am
Posts: 574
BRM wrote:
Always trying to make my posts ridiculous


He doesn't have to try vary hard. You've spent time to seek out 20 odd threads about several different topics. Spread out over several years. Members come and go, not everyone here right has read every thread. Someone with knowledge to share might read her because it's new. I doubt they're going to revive a thread from 2005 to add their thoughts unsolicited.

Also after everyone ignoring your first post here, you come back on page 3 with your list. :lol:

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PostPosted: Sat May 06, 2017 6:31 pm 
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Joined: Thu Sep 05, 2013 3:29 pm
Posts: 421
Shrike wrote:
Quickest way to do it (yes I'm one of those sparkly drivetrain guys). 5 min max for cleaning.

Put bike in bath, jamming it so you can spin the cranks without pedals hitting anything.
Spray Morgan Blue on the cassette and jockey wheels.
Wait a minute.
Turn shower on, directly over cassette.
Take cassette brush to cassette and spin cranks backwards until it looks clean. Shouldn't take more than a few secs. Shift once and repeat.
Fill chain bath with some degreaser.
Spin crank arms for half a minute with chain in chain bath.
Repeat but with water this time.
Take old cloth and spin cranks while rubbing inner and outer of each jockey wheel. Just a finger will do. Careful not to get cloth caught.
Wipe chainrings down, in and out. Put chain on big ring and repeat for inner chainring.

Done. Leave to drip for a bit then come and dry with cloth and lube.

If you want super sparkly, you need to take a cloth and fold it between each cog as you spin cassette backwards, while it's still wet. Can rub both mechs down too but now you're getting into detailing which is a slippery hour long slope. Especially if you have a white cloth and are spinning the chain through it to try and stop black marks appearing. Real OCD stuff that :P


Are you being serious here, or is this a joke? I can't see how this would be preferable to all of the standard cleaning methods. Although, I hadn't really considered it before, but I suppose for riders in an urban locale with no outdoor hose access/garage and an apartment with white wall to wall carpet or something it actually makes sense to do it this way.


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PostPosted: Mon May 08, 2017 8:26 am 
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Joined: Fri May 25, 2007 6:43 pm
Posts: 3314
I used to clean my bike in the bath when a) i was single and b) lived in a fairly grotty area. The time taken to fill a bucket with water would have seen any bike spirited away, locked or not, no garden or private yard either.

It was also my "job" to clean the bath (i had a good relationship with the landlord, keep communal areas clean and get a 25% reduction in rent).

Never done it since. Wouldn't have wanted too.

Though i do currently have a spare tub that i'm pondering on turning into a cleaning stand/drip tray so i can at least control where all the shit i rinse off the bike goes, rather than turning the drive into a cross between an oil slick and a moss cultivation zone.


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PostPosted: Mon May 08, 2017 3:52 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jul 11, 2008 12:53 pm
Posts: 112
Those people taking their chains off to clean and/or wax - are you re-using quick links ? Or putting a new quick link on every time (taking it for granted we're talking 11spd chains here)


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Posted: Mon May 08, 2017 3:52 pm 


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