Need a good value climbing cassette: 11-30, or 11-32 (SRAM/Shimano)
Moderator: robbosmans
addictR1 wrote:Wow where do you get the longer B screw? So with my 52/36 and linger b-screw + wifli RD, I can run up to 11/36?
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I bought the titanium one from Speedpark Taiwan. You might want to check their FB.
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basurper wrote:addictR1 wrote:Wow where do you get the longer B screw? So with my 52/36 and linger b-screw + wifli RD, I can run up to 11/36?
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I bought the titanium one from Speedpark Taiwan. You might want to check their FB.
Sent from my SM-N9208 using Tapatalk
Do you have a link?
also would using long B screw allow my Red Wifli or Red Short cage to run larger cassette in the rear?
addictR1 wrote:basurper wrote:addictR1 wrote:Wow where do you get the longer B screw? So with my 52/36 and linger b-screw + wifli RD, I can run up to 11/36?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I bought the titanium one from Speedpark Taiwan. You might want to check their FB.
Sent from my SM-N9208 using Tapatalk
Do you have a link?
also would using long B screw allow my Red Wifli or Red Short cage to run larger cassette in the rear?
No sorry, but you can contact them on their Facebook.
Btw if you use the roadlink https://www.wolftoothcomponents.com/products/roadlink you don't need the longer b-screw any more. The short sram red RD can handle 11-40t perfectly. You can check the compatibility at the address above.
I'll photo my set up tommorow when I get home.
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Last edited by basurper on Thu Jun 22, 2017 2:55 pm, edited 1 time in total.
fromtrektocolnago wrote:Shrike wrote:fromtrektocolnago wrote:A shimano Ultegra cassette is $50. What am I missing. It's not a high cost item
English comprehension perhaps?
The high end ones are in the league of SRAM Red, £200 (260USD). No-one said Ultegra was high cost (though in the UK they're around 70 to 80USD, not 50). As for the good value ones, yes Ultegra is one of them, but not the only one, hence the thread canvassing for opinions. Go out and ride your bike and stop being an arse on the internet
same to you. it was an honest question
For what it's worth, and this may not be greatly applicable...A friend was trying to get the red 11/32 to work with the new shimano 9050, which has apparently same cage design as 9000 mechanical... The rear mech is specified by factory for up to 30 tooth cog but is widely believed to be same as always with Shimano -- capable of a tad more.
It simply would not work on his bike with SRAM. But he tried an Ultegra 11/32 and it shifted perfectly.
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reknop wrote:ooo wrote:see related thread link to compare 11-30,11-32,12-32 - looks like this one is good:
Miche 12-32T
12-32T 12_13_14_15_17_19_21_23_25_28_32
jumps: +08+08+07+13+12+11+10+09+12+14% (big mid-cassette jumps: 13.33%)
62,95€
https://www.bike-components.de/en/Miche/Light-Primato-Shimano-11-speed-Cassette-p56168/
Since these 32 cassettes are used for climbing in the mountains I don't get the gearing of of the larger cogs. I could live without the 13 but would love the see a 30 instead ... but apparently you would need to hand built/customize them. My perfect climbing cassette would be 12-32T 12_14_15_17_19_21_23_25_28_30_32
If you're strictly going uphill the 12T may be fine. When I have to chase someone down the other side the 11T is quite useful!
basurper wrote:addictR1 wrote:basurper wrote:addictR1 wrote:Wow where do you get the longer B screw? So with my 52/36 and linger b-screw + wifli RD, I can run up to 11/36?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I bought the titanium one from Speedpark Taiwan. You might want to check their FB.
Sent from my SM-N9208 using Tapatalk
Do you have a link?
also would using long B screw allow my Red Wifli or Red Short cage to run larger cassette in the rear?
No sorry, but you can contact them on their Facebook.
Btw if you use the roadlink https://www.wolftoothcomponents.com/products/roadlink you don't need the longer b-screw any more. The short sram red RD can handle 11-40t perfectly. You can check the compatibility at the address above.
I'll photo my set up tommorow when I get home.
Sent from my SM-N9208 using Tapatalk
Oh cool! Are you running 52/36 or 50/34 front with the red short cage? Or are you running 1X? I have 52/36 front so not sure if I can run 11/36 with that step like yours. I do have wifli so maybe it won't be that stretched.
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Last edited by addictR1 on Fri Jun 23, 2017 5:06 am, edited 1 time in total.
addictR1 wrote:basurper wrote:addictR1 wrote:basurper wrote:I bought the titanium one from Speedpark Taiwan. You might want to check their FB.
Sent from my SM-N9208 using Tapatalk
Do you have a link?
also would using long B screw allow my Red Wifli or Red Short cage to run larger cassette in the rear?
No sorry, but you can contact them on their Facebook.
Btw if you use the roadlink https://www.wolftoothcomponents.com/products/roadlink you don't need the longer b-screw any more. The short sram red RD can handle 11-40t perfectly. You can check the compatibility at the address above.
I'll photo my set up tommorow when I get home.
Sent from my SM-N9208 using Tapatalk
Oh cool! If you can post a pic that will be great? Are you running 52/36 or 50/34 front with the red short cage?
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Well I don't run 2x11 any more. All of my bikes are 1x11.
My sram red 22 set's photo is on my previous post.
Attached is the duraace 9000 short RD on Recon 11-36T ti cassette without roadlink with the ti long b-screw.
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Sorry to bring this thread from the dead but you guys seem to have first hand experience; when using the road link I seem to have good shifting performance for the bigger cogs but it has trouble jumping to the 11T cog. Reason being it seems to keep the jockey wheel too far away from the 11t cog so the chain doesn’t have enough push to get it over. I have backed the b screw all the way out to minimize this problem. I have not tried to play with the chain length yet... just wondering if anyone else have noticed this issue.
Try a wide narrow tooth profile guide pulley (not alloy), that uses steel bearings. (Ceramic ones have too much play)
This will decrease the chain deflection. It's not a solution, like using the right derailleur for the cassette.
The one but last cog is a weak point even in normal setups. If the chain is nearly slack it will make the shift worse so size the chain carefully. I even oversized the bottom pulley to increase chain wrap capacity. By undesizing the guide pulley it also helped to clear a big cog if the B screw is all the way in. With a road link this isn't needed.
When unscrewing the B screw you risk grinding the derailleur on the largest cog. Shifting from 2nd to 1st gear is where it's worst.
If you let your derailleur vibrate and rest on the cog you probably end up weakening the derailleur hanger that can later break and cause large damage.
This will decrease the chain deflection. It's not a solution, like using the right derailleur for the cassette.
The one but last cog is a weak point even in normal setups. If the chain is nearly slack it will make the shift worse so size the chain carefully. I even oversized the bottom pulley to increase chain wrap capacity. By undesizing the guide pulley it also helped to clear a big cog if the B screw is all the way in. With a road link this isn't needed.
When unscrewing the B screw you risk grinding the derailleur on the largest cog. Shifting from 2nd to 1st gear is where it's worst.
If you let your derailleur vibrate and rest on the cog you probably end up weakening the derailleur hanger that can later break and cause large damage.