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PostPosted: Tue Apr 25, 2017 5:14 pm 
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The other thing to look at is the b-screw - could be the wrong angle causing that.

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 26, 2017 9:21 am 
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kdawg wrote:
The other thing to look at is the b-screw - could be the wrong angle causing that.


Definately something to look into.
Im a mtber and cant figure out really what happens when you adjust bscrew on this derailleur...


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Posted: Wed Apr 26, 2017 9:21 am 


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PostPosted: Sun May 07, 2017 9:26 pm 
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Okey so Ive ridden the bike one more time since last... Apparently the FD is pretty much spot on and there is a clicking / mechanical noise every once or twice every 360 crank movement. Thats the sound I thought was a bad derailleur setup I think. Didnt have tool to remove the SI crank arm, but noticed that I needed alot more force to undo and especially tighten the drive side center nut ( https://www.google.se/search?q=cannonda ... Bl2nnKzW0M: ) than 40nm as specified. It was really hard to remove and put back in there. 99% sure its correctly inserted. Doesnt look wrong or something. Just requires alot of force.

Need to buy tools and remove the crankset and have a look. I should have bought a specialized allez sprint locally than this caad12 from a very small company in spain. No customer support at all..


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PostPosted: Sun May 07, 2017 9:34 pm 
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It's not the FD cable hitting the crank is it?

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PostPosted: Mon May 08, 2017 8:06 am 
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No its not... But still. The bolt on the drive side needs alot more than 40nm. Something seems to be wrong...


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 17, 2017 11:32 am 
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Joined: Thu Jul 14, 2016 5:36 pm
Posts: 54
Well. I found the solution a while back to my noise...

It was a dry freehub body which made the rattle every pedal stroke. FML :|


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