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PostPosted: Fri Apr 21, 2017 10:15 pm 
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Posts: 58
Ive got problems with my caad12 105 which I bought new.
It seems impossible to adjust the front derailleur (I guess) to make the bike quiet from scratching and other noises...
Followed the tech doc ( http://si.shimano.com/pdfs/dm/DM-FD0002-05-ENG.pdf ) but I still get scratching on some gears.

Cant seem to find a way to get it silent on all gears. ¨Which way should the converter be at? There is a posibility that its wrong from Cannondale I guess. Didnt get the converter tool...

ANother thing I dont like is that there is drivetrain noise on the big ring. Dead silent on the small ring... Quite annoying.

Thanks.


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Posted: Fri Apr 21, 2017 10:15 pm 


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 22, 2017 1:54 am 
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Posts: 223
Location: Wilmington, DE
Start by ensuring you have enough cable tension. The new FD geometry from Shimano requires significantly more tension than prior FD designs. So much so that if you do not have an inline adjuster or other means to add cable tension you can forget about ever getting it adjusted correctly. I was really surprised at how much tension my 5800 FD required. I felt uncomfortable adding so much but after I did it finally worked properly.

For the converter you ought to be able to eyeball it. No need for the tool.

With proper tension and setup you should be able to use just about any gear combo with no rub.


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 22, 2017 6:10 am 
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Are you aware of the trim feature? Other than that, everything JoeJack said.......immense amount of tension is needed, and then if you make it even slightly to tense, it will screw up in other ways. Inline adjuster is mandatory.


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 22, 2017 7:58 am 
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Its a stock 105 bike so its got inline adjuster.
http://si.shimano.com/pdfs/dm/DM-FD0002-05-ENG.pdf
From this link ive done according to steps from page 7 and on.
1. Align cage slightly inward in the rear.
2. Adjusted the outer chain guide straight over the big ring (I guess this is for tension, when you back it off with cable attached it gets more cable tension...).
3. Secured the cable in the "low trim".
4. Adjusted low according to the tech doc (in low trim). Small ring big sprocket.
5. Adjust cable tension with barrel adjuster in big- big.
6. Adjust top trim on big ring small sprocket.

Need to have a look at the converter thing. Anyone with a caad12 ultegra / 105 who can tell if it should be on or off?


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 22, 2017 9:26 am 
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Posts: 136
Adjusting the FD is just one part of it.

(Doing it without inline adjuster is not impossible. Just use limit screw for tension, and/or pressing on lever arm, and/or try a few times.....)

The other part - a big part - is setting derailleur height and especially the yaw. If this is off, no matter how well you adjust it there will be some rub


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 22, 2017 11:22 am 
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This is my method which I find works really well - not actually done it yet on 5800 but it's really simple and takes a lot of the finding out - especially the setting of the upper limit by using the cable adjuster.

Start over. Undo the cable.

When clamping the front derailleur to the frame make sure the gap between the big chainring teeth and front derailleur cage is 2-5mm.

Toe the cage in slightly (around 4mm) when clamping. Then use the support bolt to align the cage with the chainring.

With the cable still not attached put the chain on the small front ring and biggest back cog. Make sure you click the front downshift lever into its lowest postion.

Adjust the inner limit screw (closest to the frame on the front derailleur) so the gap is 1mm from the chain.

Clamp the cable (finger tight cable tension - not too much). Then shift the chain onto the 11t cog (or smallest) at the back, and shift the front onto the big ring. There should now be some chain rubbing on the cage if you spin the cranks.

Screw out the outer limit screw then wind the inline barrel adjuster (adding more cable tension) until there is a 1mm gap between the outer cage and chain.

Then wind the outer limit screw in until it just touches the stop.

Now shift the chain onto the small front ring, and the rear onto the second to last smallest cog. Then click into the front small ring trim position. Now whilst in the trim position - add more tension again with the barrel adjuster until there is no rub. Leave a gap of 2mm from the chain and the outer cage. This will eliminate any slop in the trim position and make it feel more positive.

Done.

You'll always get some rub in the small/small combo - not from adjustment but because the chain will rub on the bigger ring which you can't do anything about (and as we all know that should be avoided anyway).

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 22, 2017 5:44 pm 
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Posts: 474
Location: RVA,USA
I've taken off my 105 fd so I can't picture it for you, but the pin was in the ON position by default.

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 22, 2017 5:57 pm 
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Location: Canada
If I am doing this in the absence of an online adjuster, I wind the inner limit back farther than it needs, then attach the cable with tension, then reset the inner limit to the right position. This adds tension more easily than pulling with a needle nose.....


Sent from my SM-G900W8 using Tapatalk

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 23, 2017 1:43 am 
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It isn't hard to adjust if you have the cable clamped properly. If not, it's impossible to adjust correctly.


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 23, 2017 1:48 am 
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Posts: 130
Get on youtube and watch some tutorials, these will help but they are too simplified and too fast to really be that useful, but can put you in the right direction.

I make sure the dérailleur is sitting in the right position, outer dérailleur 2mm above the large ring, use the grub screw to adjust the dérailleur angle - toe in or toe out (if braze on).

What I do is then grab the cable with piers and tug it hard whilst bolting the cable to the dérailleur. Then usually even more tension needs to be added with barrel adjuster.

I've done two dérailleurs in the last six months, and they are pigs.


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 23, 2017 1:51 am 
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Location: Wilmington, DE
goodboyr wrote:
If I am doing this in the absence of an online adjuster, I wind the inner limit back farther than it needs, then attach the cable with tension, then reset the inner limit to the right position. This adds tension more easily than pulling with a needle nose.....


Yup, I have done that many times with older Shimano FD's. Have you tried this with any of the new groupsets? Based on how tight I had to make my cable, I don't see how this could possibly work any more as it was only adequate with the older FD's and these new ones need so much more tension.


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 23, 2017 2:46 am 
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Location: Canada
I did this on a 6800. You start with plenty of tension. However the problem if you don't have an adjuster is to get the tension right in the big big crosschain position.

Sent from my SM-G900W8 using Tapatalk

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 23, 2017 2:54 pm 
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Joined: Sun Apr 05, 2015 6:06 pm
Posts: 145
I've just installed the old version of 105 (5700) on a caad 12 and it was impossible to get the fd parallel with the chainset, let alone slightly 'tail in' which I tend to prefer, so had to attack it (the fd) with a dremel. Works a treat now.

I would certainly check the alignment from above and check it the outside fd cage is parallel to the the chainset before messing around with anything else.


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 23, 2017 5:55 pm 
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Joined: Fri Sep 25, 2015 3:12 pm
Posts: 136
joejack951 wrote:
goodboyr wrote:
If I am doing this in the absence of an online adjuster, I wind the inner limit back farther than it needs, then attach the cable with tension, then reset the inner limit to the right position. This adds tension more easily than pulling with a needle nose.....


Yup, I have done that many times with older Shimano FD's. Have you tried this with any of the new groupsets? Based on how tight I had to make my cable, I don't see how this could possibly work any more as it was only adequate with the older FD's and these new ones need so much more tension.

works on 6800.


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 23, 2017 9:19 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jul 14, 2016 5:36 pm
Posts: 58
Thanks for all the help. Its 98% good now. If I go small - small or big - big its still some rattle, but thats a bad chainline so I dont mind.

The drivetrain noise seems to be from the jockey wheels (RD is also 105 5800). Only in big ring! Anyone got a clue? Tried adjusting the RD without success.


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Posted: Sun Apr 23, 2017 9:19 pm 


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