anyone running 1x11 on their road bike?
Moderator: robbosmans
I recently picked up a caad12 disc frameset that I plan to build up as a winter bike (for the UK). My intention is to run a 1x11 set-up for simplicity and I'm interested if anyone has done this? I basically found this past winter that I rarely used my 53-tooth chainring so rode 95+% of the time on 39 x 12-25 (10-speed). So I'm thinking of going 42 x 12-28 (11-speed). I've got a sram red 22 crankset I plan to use, will I have issues with chainline if I mount a single ring on this?
Interested to hear experiences of anyone who's done this - component choices, gear ratios etc? Has anyone used any of the sram apex1 stuff (seems to be the cheapest route into 1x11)? Anyone running a normal rear mech with a narrow/wide chainring?
Interested to hear experiences of anyone who's done this - component choices, gear ratios etc? Has anyone used any of the sram apex1 stuff (seems to be the cheapest route into 1x11)? Anyone running a normal rear mech with a narrow/wide chainring?
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If you have the integrated spider crank be careful with the carbon because I've known several people who have had it snap at the chainring bolt. It likes to be clamped well on both sides. If you get a sram narrow wide ring it should sit in the middle of where the two rings would sit, so it eliminates chain line issues. For road I find (winter and TT bike) that the clutch is a little unnecessary if you have the narrow wide ring and I remember reading that it adds a bit of friction if you're worried about that. For cross I use both.
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I have 1x11 on my gravel bike but I wish I had a 2x11 setup. Maybe you live in a relatively flat area?
Not exactly analogous, but I've got 1x11 on my Felt F3x CX bike that I often use on the road. Wolftooth Drop-Stop chainring (42T for CX, 44T for road) on Ultegra 6800 cranks combined with a SRAM 11-36T cassette and Shimano XTR Di2 rear derailleur. With the 44T chainrings, it has nearly the same gear-inch range as a 34/50 compact + 12-25T cassette, but it's just slightly more climbing oriented and less top end oriented.
44T + 11-36T Gear Inch Range = 34-112
34/50 + 12-25T Gear Inch Range = 38-117
44T + 11-36T Gear Inch Range = 34-112
34/50 + 12-25T Gear Inch Range = 38-117
Time VXRS Ulteam (7.16 kg)
viewtopic.php?f=10&t=120268
viewtopic.php?f=10&t=120268
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savechief wrote:Not exactly analogous, but I've got 1x11 on my Felt F3x CX bike that I often use on the road. Wolftooth Drop-Stop chainring (42T for CX, 44T for road) on Ultegra 6800 cranks combined with a SRAM 11-36T cassette and Shimano XTR Di2 rear derailleur. With the 44T chainrings, it has nearly the same gear-inch range as a 34/50 compact + 12-25T cassette, but it's just slightly more climbing oriented and less top end oriented.
44T + 11-36T Gear Inch Range = 34-112
34/50 + 12-25T Gear Inch Range = 38-117
Iv'e got close to the same gearing on my CX bike which I've modified for road use. 11-36 cassette and I've got 48T chainring. I do lots of climbing and it works great. Like you said not much different than a compact setup.
BS.
To make FAIR comparison compare apples to apples : 11-28 on 34-50 vs yours 1x11 . You're not even close on 40,42,44 ( 11-36 ) to 2x11 range . Not on top, not on bottom. 1x "48t" I won't even comment. few hundred m of 12% will verify brutally all this hype.
Sure, you can ride with cadence 125 or 25.... because you'll need it.
Sorry for sarcasm, but it doesn't require very high IQ to understand that 1x11 has been designed for RACING CX. For SOME courses. NOT ALL of them. And even then has limitations which kill profit from needless front shifting
1x11 is "so good" that MOST of top 10 racers in CX DON'T USE IT ANYMORE.
Most funny part was "44t climbing oriented"..... ROFL.
To make FAIR comparison compare apples to apples : 11-28 on 34-50 vs yours 1x11 . You're not even close on 40,42,44 ( 11-36 ) to 2x11 range . Not on top, not on bottom. 1x "48t" I won't even comment. few hundred m of 12% will verify brutally all this hype.
Sure, you can ride with cadence 125 or 25.... because you'll need it.
Sorry for sarcasm, but it doesn't require very high IQ to understand that 1x11 has been designed for RACING CX. For SOME courses. NOT ALL of them. And even then has limitations which kill profit from needless front shifting
1x11 is "so good" that MOST of top 10 racers in CX DON'T USE IT ANYMORE.
Most funny part was "44t climbing oriented"..... ROFL.
Go to Heaven for the climate, Hell for the company.
Mark Twain
I can be wrong, and have plenty of examples for that
Mark Twain
I can be wrong, and have plenty of examples for that
I have a 1x10 on my cross/winter bike. 42t narrow wide chainring, 11/32 cassette. My setup is a little weird because I'm using campy 10sp shifters and a sram x9 clutch derailleur, and a hodgepodge of other drivetrain bits.
I thought my 42x11 was going to spin out super easy, but I've been pleasantly surprised that it has held its own on fast club runs. Only occasionally do I notice the gaps between the gears, but overall I like having the simplicity on this bike.
Even on the road, I think having both the narrow wide and the clutch derailleur is a good thing. All it takes is a playful hop off a curb hit just right or a particularly rough patch of road to want to throw the chain.
If I wanted to put more money into it, I'd probably go with a 46 and an 11x36 11sp setup, but for a backup bike, what I have is working well enough. I'm not a cat 1 racer (but do ride with some), and a 1x setup is not good for that level of riding if you want a do it all bike. But it is fine for the vast majority of reasonably strong competent riders.
I thought my 42x11 was going to spin out super easy, but I've been pleasantly surprised that it has held its own on fast club runs. Only occasionally do I notice the gaps between the gears, but overall I like having the simplicity on this bike.
Even on the road, I think having both the narrow wide and the clutch derailleur is a good thing. All it takes is a playful hop off a curb hit just right or a particularly rough patch of road to want to throw the chain.
If I wanted to put more money into it, I'd probably go with a 46 and an 11x36 11sp setup, but for a backup bike, what I have is working well enough. I'm not a cat 1 racer (but do ride with some), and a 1x setup is not good for that level of riding if you want a do it all bike. But it is fine for the vast majority of reasonably strong competent riders.
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stormur wrote:BS.
To make FAIR comparison compare apples to apples : 11-28 on 34-50 vs yours 1x11 . You're not even close on 40,42,44 ( 11-36 ) to 2x11 range . Not on top, not on bottom. 1x "48t" I won't even comment. few hundred m of 12% will verify brutally all this hype.
Sure, you can ride with cadence 125 or 25.... because you'll need it.
Sorry for sarcasm, but it doesn't require very high IQ to understand that 1x11 has been designed for RACING CX. For SOME courses. NOT ALL of them. And even then has limitations which kill profit from needless front shifting
1x11 is "so good" that MOST of top 10 racers in CX DON'T USE IT ANYMORE.
Most funny part was "44t climbing oriented"..... ROFL.
Why bother posting this kind of tripe? It doesn't add to the conversation. Your declaration that "few hundred m of 12% will verify brutally all this hype" is more an indictment of your fitness limitations, not others. No need to project that.
OP asked if there were people out there riding 1X11 on a road bike and there are. If he wanted to know what pros were riding in CX races then he probably would have asked that.
Your "fair" comparison is nothing of the sort. Again OP is comparing 1X11 setup to his preferred gearing - 39 X 12-25 which 1X11 is certainly capable of duplicating.
If you have something useful to say about 1X11 on a road bike then post it up, otherwise take your rain cloud somewhere else.
Yes, I run 1x on my do-it-all bike and love it. I'm currently building up a TT bike and will make it 1x as well.
Here's my Superpavé:
* A 40 or 42t chainring works well. I can pull a fast group in the flat with a 40t ring and not even use the 11t cog in the rear.
* 11-32 cassette will give you decent climbing gears, better than a 36/25. Gear jumps are not a problem with 11s.
* 10-42 is even nicer, but requires an XD freehub.
* You'll only be limited on those mid-steep downhills where you can pedal to 60+ kph and not reach aerodynamic equilibrium. Solution: Go a bit slower there.
* Consider using long chainring bolts with spacers instead of short ones that will come loose.
* Disregard what stormur says, he obviously has no experience with 1x on the road.
Play with this, especially with the speed/cadence option:
http://ritzelrechner.de/?GR=DERS&KB=34, ... 2&UF2=2161
Here's my Superpavé:
* A 40 or 42t chainring works well. I can pull a fast group in the flat with a 40t ring and not even use the 11t cog in the rear.
* 11-32 cassette will give you decent climbing gears, better than a 36/25. Gear jumps are not a problem with 11s.
* 10-42 is even nicer, but requires an XD freehub.
* You'll only be limited on those mid-steep downhills where you can pedal to 60+ kph and not reach aerodynamic equilibrium. Solution: Go a bit slower there.
* Consider using long chainring bolts with spacers instead of short ones that will come loose.
* Disregard what stormur says, he obviously has no experience with 1x on the road.
Play with this, especially with the speed/cadence option:
http://ritzelrechner.de/?GR=DERS&KB=34, ... 2&UF2=2161
Last edited by Marin on Mon Jan 15, 2018 12:52 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Don't your group rides include the occasional sprint to the town sign? 42-11 might be fine for a reasonably fast group ride but it definitely isn't for a sprint.
42/11 takes me to 60+ kph for long enough to not get dropped during a sprint - cadence is poor man's gearing and I used to race BMX
42/10 with the large cassette is faster than 50/12.
42/10 with the large cassette is faster than 50/12.
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Marin wrote:42/11 takes me to 60+ kph for long enough to not get dropped during a sprint - cadence is poor man's gearing and I used to race BMX
42/10 with the large cassette is faster than 50/12.
No questions about 42/10, that one can be seriously fast
Ok, your cadence work is a lot better than mine then.
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