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PostPosted: Fri Apr 14, 2017 6:04 pm 
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Joined: Sun Mar 27, 2011 7:35 pm
Posts: 126
The short stays on a road bike mean that at the extreme ends of the cassette, you end up with an awful chainline, which makes for an inefficient drivetrain.

You lose a number of gears.

It looks silly.

What're you meant to do when you get a good tailwind?! :-D


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 14, 2017 6:47 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jan 22, 2014 11:48 am
Posts: 2429
Location: Vienna Austria
Lieblingsleguan wrote:
Marin wrote:
42/11 takes me to 60+ kph for long enough to not get dropped during a sprint - cadence is poor man's gearing and I used to race BMX :)

42/10 with the large cassette is faster than 50/12.

No questions about 42/10, that one can be seriously fast :wink:
Ok, your cadence work is a lot better than mine then.


It's just 120 rpm, that's not that bad for a few seconds.


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Posted: Fri Apr 14, 2017 6:47 pm 


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 15, 2017 12:28 am 
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Joined: Tue Dec 18, 2012 1:31 am
Posts: 181
Yes. 46T SRAM CX1 front, 11-32 SRAM PG1170 rear, Ultegra 6800gs di2. Felt F3x on 30c tubeless, used as a winter road bike, gravel and general mucking about machine. 46x32 is about the same as 39x27, which is a perfectly acceptable climbing ratio, and 46x11 is about the same as 50x12, which spins out at something like 75kph (or in other words, doesn't spin out). The 30c Mavic tyres obviously raise the gearing a little, and add some weight; previously I had the same drivetrain on a Condor steel frame which I used as a commuter, running it on 25c. I'll probably drop to a 40t front ring for cross and/or fit a bigger cassette.


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 18, 2017 8:59 pm 
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Joined: Thu Apr 13, 2017 8:35 pm
Posts: 3
Thanks for all the replies, its good to hear that several people have successfully gone this route. Interesting that some of you have gone for a larger chainring with a wider range cassette. I'm leaning towards keeping the chainring down to a 40 or 42t and keeping a closer ratio cassette. I'm not too fussed about top-end gears as I'm quite happy to freewheel down big hills and I should still be able to comfortably do 40kph on the flat.

Now to find the parts (including hydros...) and start building :thumbup:


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 19, 2017 12:16 am 
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Joined: Thu Mar 09, 2017 5:35 am
Posts: 120
I was thinking about running a 34T or 36T with an 11-36 on my 10sp Tiagra on my steel bikepacking bike, but I was wondering about the chainline and whether a MTV ranks with narrow wide would be the best thing to run. :?:


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 19, 2017 6:17 am 
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Joined: Tue Mar 31, 2015 11:05 pm
Posts: 68
I'm looking forward to the CS-HG800-11s. 11-34 and will fit on a 10 speed road hub. Designed to match the R8000 (new Ultegra) derailleur.


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 19, 2017 8:07 am 
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Joined: Fri May 25, 2007 6:43 pm
Posts: 3285
adamP wrote:
I'm leaning towards keeping the chainring down to a 40 or 42t and keeping a closer ratio cassette.
I've done entire winters in the small ring before now. Doesn't do the front mech much good :shock: . In hindsight, i'd probably have been better off getting rid of the front mech/big ring and playing around with cassette sizes. 39 with something like 12/25 or 11/23 was what i had, and living on the edge of the peak district at the time, so a good number of 40-50mph descents (coast and tuck). And plenty of climbing. It was 9 speed, so with 10 (or 11) i could easily go up 3-5 teeth on the ring with maybe an 11/28 and kept similar sized gaps and got a better spread of gears.

Not fit enough for that these days, less power and poorer cadence (comfortable range and maximum leg speed) so i'll stick with a double.


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