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PostPosted: Tue Apr 11, 2017 7:19 pm 
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Location: Zuidholland, the Netherlands
On my ti-bike I have a compact chainset Sram 11 sp incombi with Camp 11 speed. I have tried to make the range of shifting smaller by tighten the cable but I cant fit it correctly. So far it works but only the shift range is quite large. Special when I compare this with my other bike with double chainset of Camp.

Should i use a FD of Sram or wont help this?

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Posted: Tue Apr 11, 2017 7:19 pm 


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 12, 2017 7:58 am 
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Location: Reading, UK
Chainring spacing doesn't vary significantly between manufacturers so the 'range' shouldn't be different. By 'range' do you mean that you need a large sweep of the shift lever to make the shift?

When the FD is in the inner position, is the FD wire slack or does it still have tension?


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 12, 2017 8:21 am 
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Miller wrote:
Chainring spacing doesn't vary significantly between manufacturers so the 'range' shouldn't be different. By 'range' do you mean that you need a large sweep of the shift lever to make the shift?

When the FD is in the inner position, is the FD wire slack or does it still have tension?


Yes, I mean a large sweep fo the shift lever.
The inner gage of the fd is around 1 mm of the chain.

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Life is like riding a bicycle. To keep your balance you must keep moving.
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 12, 2017 9:13 am 
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I allways set it as close I can get it without it touching, I never had a problem with a sram chain set on a campagnolo group


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 12, 2017 8:48 pm 
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Body wrote:
The inner gage of the fd is around 1 mm of the chain.


I'm guessing you mean the inner cage of the FD is 1mm away from the chain when the FD is in the lowest position. That's fine.

With the FD in that position, try and take up any slack in the FD wire, so there is a bit of tension in the FD wire but not enough to move the FD move outwards. This means loosening the FD wire pinch bolt and tugging the wire tight before refastening the pinch bolt. It helps to have three hands when doing this.

This ensures that as soon as you begin to sweep the FD shift lever, the FD begins to move, thus minimising the necessary range of movement in the shift lever. Otherwise the shift lever will take up slack in the wire before the FD moves which perhaps is your situation now.


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 13, 2017 3:07 pm 
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Miller wrote:
Body wrote:
The inner gage of the fd is around 1 mm of the chain.


I'm guessing you mean the inner cage of the FD is 1mm away from the chain when the FD is in the lowest position. That's fine.

With the FD in that position, try and take up any slack in the FD wire, so there is a bit of tension in the FD wire but not enough to move the FD move outwards. This means loosening the FD wire pinch bolt and tugging the wire tight before refastening the pinch bolt. It helps to have three hands when doing this.

This ensures that as soon as you begin to sweep the FD shift lever, the FD begins to move, thus minimising the necessary range of movement in the shift lever. Otherwise the shift lever will take up slack in the wire before the FD moves which perhaps is your situation now.


Thank you for your information and advice!
I did this but to tighten the cable I use the cable adjuster. Its a bit better now. When I tight the cable to much than inner gage of the FD will touch the chain. I think its okay now. Maybe I compare it to much with my other bike with a double crank. This one is a compact and the rings are wider than a double crank.

Will be there a difference between a fd Campa or Sram in this setup?

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Life is like riding a bicycle. To keep your balance you must keep moving.
Albert Einstein


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Posted: Thu Apr 13, 2017 3:07 pm 


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 20, 2017 4:20 pm 
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JanghoLee wrote:
It is the fastest way to change the hub on the rear wheel.


I don't understand you

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Life is like riding a bicycle. To keep your balance you must keep moving.
Albert Einstein


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