Alligator Ilink / Mini Ilink
Moderator: robbosmans
I'm in the process of re-cabling my Supersix EVO and I was wondering what's the best lightweight option.
I was suggested to go with Ilinks for brakes and Mini Ilink for gears, is this a good system in your opinion?
I'm also a bit concerned about how easy it is to install this cables, is this something that any decent bike mechanic can easily do?
Thanks!
I was suggested to go with Ilinks for brakes and Mini Ilink for gears, is this a good system in your opinion?
I'm also a bit concerned about how easy it is to install this cables, is this something that any decent bike mechanic can easily do?
Thanks!
Visit starbike.com Online Retailer for HighEnd cycling components
Great Prices ✓ Broad Selection ✓ Worldwide Delivery ✓
www.starbike.com
Both quite easy to install. Mini version takes a time to settle in. The segments compress into each other, which requires constant cable adjustment.
-
- Posts: 2025
- Joined: Fri Feb 17, 2006 6:22 am
- Location: Zion
Many years ago, I used Alligator Mini I-Link shift and I-Link braking cables. I constantly battled poor shifting and returned to the heavier Yokozuna shift cables with my tail between my legs. The I-Links were just fine for braking.
I later went with Aican Bungarus for braking because they were reportedly lighter than I-Links. After maybe 3 seasons, I replaced them with another set. I'm on a new bike and I chose Aican for brakes again. They just work great, but many of the little barrels (ferrules?) corroded and some chipped / cracked over time.
http://fairwheelbikes.com/aican-bungaru ... cable-set/
http://blog.fairwheelbikes.com/2012/08/ ... uperlight/
I later went with Aican Bungarus for braking because they were reportedly lighter than I-Links. After maybe 3 seasons, I replaced them with another set. I'm on a new bike and I chose Aican for brakes again. They just work great, but many of the little barrels (ferrules?) corroded and some chipped / cracked over time.
http://fairwheelbikes.com/aican-bungaru ... cable-set/
http://blog.fairwheelbikes.com/2012/08/ ... uperlight/
-
- Posts: 83
- Joined: Tue Jun 07, 2016 11:10 pm
Luca79 wrote:I'm in the process of re-cabling my Supersix EVO and I was wondering what's the best lightweight option.
I was suggested to go with Ilinks for brakes and Mini Ilink for gears, is this a good system in your opinion?
I'm also a bit concerned about how easy it is to install this cables, is this something that any decent bike mechanic can easily do?
Thanks!
Hi Luca, don't bother. If you ride your bike often, you will find that the links compress and as previously pointed out cables need to be constantly adjusted. In addition, they are not durable, with the out coating chipping quite easily.
Jagwire Elite Links are a superior product. Light shifting, and still look like new with at least 8 months on them.
+1 for the Jagware Elite Links, I have them for braking. Very responsive braking, good power, no complaints. Best part is no more outer cable fraying on my Evo where the cable goes into the frame.
Can't say anything for shifting peformance as I'm on Di2.
Can't say anything for shifting peformance as I'm on Di2.
superdx wrote:+1 for the Jagware Elite Links, I have them for braking. Very responsive braking, good power, no complaints. Best part is no more outer cable fraying on my Evo where the cable goes into the frame.
Can't say anything for shifting peformance as I'm on Di2.
Were there any weight savings going to the Elite Links?
Who has installed mini iLink into Sram shifters? None of my ferrules seem to fit correctly in my Sram Force 22 shifter. The links themselves seem to (barely) fit in the silver built-in "ferrule" in the shifter body but I'm concerned about stress points with the link edge taking the cable tension load. Has anyone tried this?
I used i-links with Red 22. It was a pain to set up first time, but otherwise issue free. No problem at the shifters - I just used the ferrules provided.
I have several ferrules from the mini iLinks set but none of them seem to fit inside the silver recess in the shifter body. Some of them will fit against the outer lip of the silver recess, but then the bend in the links starts too late and they stand proud from the shifter body.
Do you happen to have a photo of the ferrule you used?
Do you happen to have a photo of the ferrule you used?
I'll see if I can find the box in the garage when I'm free, but I can't remember off the top of my head which one I used... also might be worth trying the other channel in the shifter body if you didnt already.
Jagwire Elite Links are very good.
The save roughly 40-50 grams over standard Shimano cable outers if you are running mechanicals.
Lighter with superior shifting and durability - what's not to like?
Anyone tried Powercordz cables with Jagwire Elite Links cable outers?
The save roughly 40-50 grams over standard Shimano cable outers if you are running mechanicals.
Lighter with superior shifting and durability - what's not to like?
Anyone tried Powercordz cables with Jagwire Elite Links cable outers?
I know this is an old thread but a recent experience with the mini links on SRAM Red 22 made me want to post to perhaps save someone else the hassle.
My experience was the same as the OP, the ferrule the instructions say should butt up against the shifter cable guide does not fit. I installed it as best I could but this resulted in the cables coming out at a slight angle. This build was for hill climb TTs so minimal shifting and virtually no front shifting. Figured it was good enough for that purpose.
The shifting was always poor requiring constant adjustment as others have mentioned because of the slight, but not negligible, compression possible with the mini links.
Recently, the shifting went from poor to absolutely crap. Turns out, the angle the cable exited the shifter meant it rubbed on the ferrule (thin aluminum) and eventually ground through it, and the inner liner. Obviously, this meant exposed cable just covered by bar tape. The sharp edge of the broken ferrule also poked a hole through the right shifter hood.
I tried to reinstall with every ferrule I could find in my box and there are a ton with no luck. If it fits the end of the i-links it won't fit the shifter guide. I also tried to reassemble the system WITHOUT a ferrule by just stuffing i-links all the way to the cable stop on the shifter. This fits but there is too much compression of the housing for shifting.
Cliffs notes: Despite the added weight, I'm going back to regular SIS housing. The mini links, at least the version I had, are just not compatible with SRAM Red 22.
Edit: No issues with the brake cable or the beefier alligator housing.
My experience was the same as the OP, the ferrule the instructions say should butt up against the shifter cable guide does not fit. I installed it as best I could but this resulted in the cables coming out at a slight angle. This build was for hill climb TTs so minimal shifting and virtually no front shifting. Figured it was good enough for that purpose.
The shifting was always poor requiring constant adjustment as others have mentioned because of the slight, but not negligible, compression possible with the mini links.
Recently, the shifting went from poor to absolutely crap. Turns out, the angle the cable exited the shifter meant it rubbed on the ferrule (thin aluminum) and eventually ground through it, and the inner liner. Obviously, this meant exposed cable just covered by bar tape. The sharp edge of the broken ferrule also poked a hole through the right shifter hood.
I tried to reinstall with every ferrule I could find in my box and there are a ton with no luck. If it fits the end of the i-links it won't fit the shifter guide. I also tried to reassemble the system WITHOUT a ferrule by just stuffing i-links all the way to the cable stop on the shifter. This fits but there is too much compression of the housing for shifting.
Cliffs notes: Despite the added weight, I'm going back to regular SIS housing. The mini links, at least the version I had, are just not compatible with SRAM Red 22.
Edit: No issues with the brake cable or the beefier alligator housing.
I came to the same conclusion when I tried to replace Sram Red 10 speed (1st gen) levers with Force 22 ones. I couldn't find a clean way to build those shifters with iLink. I tried all ferrules, tried without one, and came to the conclusion that:
- shifting would be a mess because the housing wouldn't be tucked against the bar
- cable would eventually wear through the links at the exit of the lever because of the angle.
TL;DR, "un court example vaut mieux qu'un long discours" as we say in French, so pics:
Red 10:
Force 22 with inteneded ferrule:
Force 22 without ferrule:
So I ordered Jagwire Elite Sealed kits instead, but it is a pity, iLink is lighter and had been on the bike for 5 years without a single issue.
- shifting would be a mess because the housing wouldn't be tucked against the bar
- cable would eventually wear through the links at the exit of the lever because of the angle.
TL;DR, "un court example vaut mieux qu'un long discours" as we say in French, so pics:
Red 10:
Force 22 with inteneded ferrule:
Force 22 without ferrule:
So I ordered Jagwire Elite Sealed kits instead, but it is a pity, iLink is lighter and had been on the bike for 5 years without a single issue.
Visit starbike.com Online Retailer for HighEnd cycling components
Great Prices ✓ Broad Selection ✓ Worldwide Delivery ✓
www.starbike.com