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PostPosted: Sat Apr 01, 2017 10:41 pm 
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Joined: Sun Aug 14, 2016 10:24 am
Posts: 78
hi,

my Cannondale Supersix EVO (non hi-mod) 2015 has a creacking bottom bracket.

i bought my Cannondale second hand , it was barely used and everything was great. after about 1200 km i noticed a little creak in my bb30 bearings,it was a real low sound and i heard it around twice a ride. then i decided to "fix" it .when i removed my crank i noticed my bearings were rough , so i opened my bearings and tried to clean them out while they were still in the frame and then i tried to reassamble it... the bearing cage broke when i tried to put it back in. then the noise got worse, so i ordered new bearings and the fsa removal tool ,which worked great and the fsa cups to hold the bearings .
Image
when it arrived i went to a local car shop of a friend of mine. he didn't have the right press(diameter) to use the fsa cups , but we press them with his press and they were fine for about 3km and then they started to creack real bad . today i pressed them in again with a bolt and a nut and they were fine again for 5km and they started again.then when i came back from my ride i tightened the bearings again and put in a different crank

I'm asking for some advice
1. im thinking about buying a well fitting tool , i think i am going to buy this one https://www.bike-components.de/de/PRO/Innenlager-Einpresswerkzeug-Pressfit-fuer-24-30-mm-p55790/.
2. should i sand the inside of the bottom bracket a little bit
3. might loctite fix my problem ?
4. other suggestions ?


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 01, 2017 11:03 pm 
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Joined: Wed Nov 30, 2005 1:35 am
Posts: 211
My nephew had the exact same problem on the exact same bike. We ended up buying a bb30 adaptor to threaded bb and fitted it. Bought a standard shimano bb, fitted it and all problem solved. Don't waste your time with bb30.


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Posted: Sat Apr 01, 2017 11:03 pm 


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 01, 2017 11:05 pm 
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Joined: Wed Nov 30, 2005 1:35 am
Posts: 211
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/mobi ... 7C466163AU

He didn't buy it from here though. He only paid $10.


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 01, 2017 11:12 pm 
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Joined: Sun Aug 14, 2016 10:24 am
Posts: 78
slick1 wrote:
My nephew had the exact same problem on the exact same bike. We ended up buying a bb30 adaptor to threaded bb and fitted it. Bought a standard shimano bb, fitted it and all problem solved. Don't waste your time with bb30.

Thx for the reaction, i thought about that bat it will be the last option as it means that i will have to buy a new crank aswell , and it adds a lot of weight .


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 01, 2017 11:27 pm 
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Joined: Wed Nov 30, 2005 1:35 am
Posts: 211
It's worth the changeover IMO. I found that on my nephews bike the bb30 recess was slightly out of round do to slight movement so he'd never get it to stop creaking.

A set of second hand Dura Ace cranks aren't that much if it solves the annoying creaks and groans coming from your bb.


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 01, 2017 11:47 pm 
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Joined: Sat Oct 15, 2016 9:08 pm
Posts: 221
Is it press fit PF30? I have that and after a couple of trips to different LBS, I tried fixing it myself (I mean, how hard can it be?)

For the press, I looked at this page (https://www.pinkbike.com/news/Tech-Tues ... -2012.html), went to the local hardware store and found something similar. I think the threaded rod & nuts were about a few bucks.

Image

I used Loctite 609, which fills in the small gaps between the frame and BB hence stopping the creaking. It's been almost a year (I think), and the creak hasn't come back. So, I'm quite happy with myself :D

Also, there's a thread on this with more solutions:
viewtopic.php?t=101576


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 01, 2017 11:56 pm 
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Joined: Sun Aug 14, 2016 10:24 am
Posts: 78
antonioiglesius wrote:
Is it press fit PF30? I have that and after a couple of trips to different LBS, I tried fixing it myself (I mean, how hard can it be?)

For the press, I looked at this page (https://www.pinkbike.com/news/Tech-Tues ... -2012.html), went to the local hardware store and found something similar. I think the threaded rod & nuts were about a few bucks.

Image

I used Loctite 609, which fills in the small gaps between the frame and BB hence stopping the creaking. It's been almost a year (I think), and the creak hasn't come back. So, I'm quite happy with myself :D

Also, there's a thread on this with more solutions:
viewtopic.php?t=101576

i am thinking about using loctite, would loctite 246 work on it aswell ? the befriended car shop has that type laying around
i have standard bb30 so just the bearing cups... i saw that a part of the bbshell has black paint on it (from the paint job of frame i guess) and another part is just steel or aluminium... coulkd that make the noise ?


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 02, 2017 12:17 am 
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Posts: 211
Been there done that. It depends how out of round the area is.


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 02, 2017 12:19 am 
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jobvisser wrote:
i am thinking about using loctite, would loctite 246 work on it aswell ? the befriended car shop has that type laying around
i have standard bb30 so just the bearing cups... i saw that a part of the bbshell has black paint on it (from the paint job of frame i guess) and another part is just steel or aluminium... coulkd that make the noise ?


Sorry I don't know about that. IIRC Cannondale wrote somewhere that 609 should be used...


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 02, 2017 5:03 pm 
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Joined: Sun Mar 16, 2014 3:43 pm
Posts: 817
Tons of topics already about this subject on this forum and also easy to find with google.
There are several options to solve your problem.

Loctite 246 is not good for this btw.

On the site of Cannondale there is even a pdf "Bonding Instructions"
http://cf-prd.cannondale.com/~/media/Fi ... 02T193335Z


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 02, 2017 6:03 pm 
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Joined: Tue Nov 15, 2016 8:13 am
Posts: 94
I think you have a tolerance problem

I would watch this:

https://youtu.be/7gxTmL5m9PU?list=PLWIl ... JCioXmC1rG

And hitting a carbon frame with a hammer was not my idea of mentally acceptable. So I made a tool that requires no hammers:

https://youtu.be/zD0q_0TsHa0?list=PLWIl ... JCioXmC1rG

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The science behind Aero Road wheels!!
Ceramic v Steel Bearings: The Truth
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 02, 2017 7:23 pm 
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Posts: 78
hambini wrote:
I think you have a tolerance problem

I would watch this:

https://youtu.be/7gxTmL5m9PU?list=PLWIl ... JCioXmC1rG

And hitting a carbon frame with a hammer was not my idea of mentally acceptable. So I made a tool that requires no hammers:

https://youtu.be/zD0q_0TsHa0?list=PLWIl ... JCioXmC1rG

Thank you hambini, i have watched your bb30 video before but didn't finish watching it .
So when i buy a good tool and loctite 609 there is a chance that the noise will be gone ? knowing that loctite is very expensive where i live ( i live in the netherlands 10ml is €30 here)can i just buy loctite on ebay or is there a chance they sell "fake" loctite ?
this problem has to be solved within 3 weeks , im going to southern france in 3 weeks and want to be creak free while climbing


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 02, 2017 7:31 pm 
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Joined: Tue Nov 15, 2016 8:13 am
Posts: 94
A lot of people email me about creaking bottom brackets. My top tips:

1. Buy decent bearings, SKF, Timken, INA, NTN, NSK, FAG, Nachi, Koyo. Forget buying FSA ones, they are rebranded junk. I also recommend people follow the cannondale spec and use snap rings and not circlips.
2. You really need to check to see if the bb shell is round and also what dimension it is (45.97 with an ISO bearing). If you put a cack quality bearing in the hole, it might not meet iso tolerances and be slightly undersized thereby creating your creak.
3. Always use retaining compound. If you are using a carbon frame then use activator as well.
4. There is a difference between "loctite" and retaining compound. Commonly loctite is used to refer to threadlock. that is completely different to retaining compound.

The tool you use will not make much difference but the bearing quality will.

I believe there is a shop in NL called Eriks, you should be able to get everything you need from there - it also won't be fake.

Hambini

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The science behind Aero Road wheels!!
Ceramic v Steel Bearings: The Truth
Visit the Hambini Website


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 02, 2017 7:45 pm 
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Ok, if you have a 2015 Cannondale, it's PF30, right? Not BB30. The bearings come in cups that get pressed into the BB shell. The cups need to be aligned and square to each other. You need a good press to ensure this. Also, the creaking comes from movement between the shell and the cups outer surface. To stop that movement you need to use a RETAINING compound (Loctite 609) PLUS PRIMER. Do not use a threadlocking compound. Like has already been mentioned there are a lot of threads on this. I have installed many different types of PF30 solutions in frames that were problematic. None have creaked since, despite having them back and forth to shops many times before that. Do it once. Do it right. This picture is getting worn out from being posted so many times...
Image

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Posted: Sun Apr 02, 2017 7:45 pm 


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 02, 2017 8:17 pm 
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Joined: Sun Aug 14, 2016 10:24 am
Posts: 78
Calnago wrote:
Ok, if you have a 2015 Cannondale, it's PF30, right? Not BB30. The bearings come in cups that get pressed into the BB shell. The cups need to be aligned and square to each other. You need a good press to ensure this. Also, the creaking comes from movement between the shell and the cups outer surface. To stop that movement you need to use a RETAINING compound (Loctite 609) PLUS PRIMER. Do not use a threadlocking compound. Like has already been mentioned there are a lot of threads on this. I have installed many different types of PF30 solutions in frames that were problematic. None have creaked since, despite having them back and forth to shops many times before that. Do it once. Do it right. This picture is getting worn out from being posted so many times...
Image


Thank you calnago, i have a supersix evo from 2015 but mine just uses bearings, so just the bearings and not the silicon cups


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