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PostPosted: Wed Mar 15, 2017 2:10 am 
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Joined: Thu Nov 12, 2015 5:26 pm
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The shift from big to small chainring is pretty much instantaneous but the reverse is not true. I find that I need at least one full turn of the crank before it engages. Is this normal or is the adjustment off?
I find on my other bike with Ultegra that the big chainring engages as soon as I turn the lever. I would like this to be the same with the Super Record, if possible. Suggestions please that I can take to my bike mechanic.
Thanks.


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Posted: Wed Mar 15, 2017 2:10 am 


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 15, 2017 3:26 am 
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Shift from big to small is instantaneous but it should take two clicks to get there, the second being as it hits the stop. When it is in the big ring you should be able to cleanly access (no front derailleur rub) the entire cassette, smallest to largest cogs, without touching the front derailleur.
The move from small to big is equally instantaneous providing it is adjusted correctly. Depending on where the front derailleur is positioned (1st, 2nd, or 3rd position), it can take from 1 to 3 clicks to get to the big ring. First position (most inboard) takes exactly 3 clicks to move cleanly to the big ring. 2nd position takes 2 clicks, and if the front derailleur is in the 3rd position (while on the small chainring), it should take just one click to move to the big ring. Sounds like an adjustment issue. The 2015+ front derailleurs are quite different in their setup than the pre 2015 front derailleurs. Sounds like you need a redo of your adjustment. But first, as a quick troubleshoot to rule out a couple things... back off the outer limit screw of the front derailleur, a lot, just to make sure it is not causing the difficulty in moving from small to big chainrings. I'm also going to assume the front derailleur is attached to the frame correctly and it's outer plate is dead, exactly, perfectly, right on, (do you get the importance of this yet) parallel to the large chainring. If it still doesn't move from small to big ring as it should, you need more tension on the cable. Do you have the inline adjuster installed? If so, with the chain on the big ring up front, and on the largest rear sprocket, adjust the tension till the inside plate of the front derailleur cage is almost, but not quite, touching the chain. Rotate the crank a few revolutions to make sure there is no rub. That's a quick and dirty synopsis. Is your mechanic well versed in post 2015 Campagnolo, or is he just "guessing" or doing it like he always has for the pre 2015 stuff? If it's one of those scenarios then he needs to educate himself on working with the newer stuff or you should take it to someone else more familiar with doing it correctly. Campagnolo has all their technical documentation online.

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 15, 2017 9:47 am 
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Joined: Mon Aug 31, 2015 8:42 pm
Posts: 83
Location: Madrid, España
I have a 2015 chorus an used the campagnolo tool (UT-FD020) to install the front derailleur. For me to go from small to big I have to do it in one pull from position 1 to 3. Other wise the chain will pop out.

My setup is 53-39 with 11-29


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 15, 2017 1:09 pm 
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As Calnago says, this is 99.9% sure to be an assembly / adjustment problem, provided all the elements are Campagnolo and the frame is in spec.

A full rev of the crankset should never be required as the pick-up zones are placed at approx 90 degrees to each other so a full rev would be passing three pick up zones before actuation ...

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 15, 2017 2:28 pm 
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Thanks Calnago and Graeme. I will show this to my mechanic. He himself uses only Campagnolo on his bikes.

Regarding the shift from big to small, it is instantaneous and I can hear two clicks as I push the button down. But after hearing two clicks, I find that I can still depress the button again and hear another click. Is this normal or is the adjustment off as well.
Thanks.


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 15, 2017 2:47 pm 
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That's exactly how it should work. That stop is new, and prevents a complete throw to most inboard position, thus greatly reducing the chances of a dropped chain. At that point, you could still move up to the largest cog in the cassette, but you will probably get a bit of rub on the front derailleur on the largest three cogs or so. That's where the final push comes in... moves the front derailleur just that little bit further to the most inboard position and all is good. No rub, no noise. Bellissimo!

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C59 Five Years Later
My Special Colnago EPQ
Trek Emonda SL Campagnolo SR


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 15, 2017 4:39 pm 
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Thanks Calnago.


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 15, 2017 5:30 pm 
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Location: eh?
@Calnago,

Given the new stop to prevent chain throw to the inboard side, do you feel it is OK to run without a chain catcher? I know that you use them. Being new to Campy I just don't have the experience to know if there is a real risk of a dropped chain. I use chain catchers on my Sram Red equipped bikes, but mostly because the FD comes with one - to their credit they never seem to have problem with dropped chains either.

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 15, 2017 5:54 pm 
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I have had 2015 Chorus for over a year, running 34/50 and 11/23, and never dropped a chain. In this regard, the "stop" that Cal mentioned is an improvement. However, unlike the older 10S at least, you need to push the button twice to get from the big to the innermost setting on the small and avoid chain rub on the inside cassette cogs. A bit of a tradeoff.

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 15, 2017 6:00 pm 
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@Mr.Gib: I just saw and responded to your same question in my C60 thread. It's as @dj97223 describes above.

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C59 Five Years Later
My Special Colnago EPQ
Trek Emonda SL Campagnolo SR


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Posted: Wed Mar 15, 2017 6:00 pm 


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