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PostPosted: Mon Mar 13, 2017 9:43 pm 
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Joined: Tue Mar 18, 2014 10:13 pm
Posts: 457
Location: Great Southern Land
Hi, probably a stupid question with and obvious answer but as above I am having trouble removing and installing me rear wheel with the DA derailleur. The leaflet that came with the RD says to make sure you position the lever in the off position before wheel removal. For the life of me I cannot find any lever to lock.......... Is there something simple I am missing, any suggestions?

Steve

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 13, 2017 9:50 pm 
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Sounds like the manual you have is referring to clutched MTB rear mechs. DA doesn't have a clutch, so no lever.

Edit: Yes, having looked at the manual it is a generic DI2 manual covering road and MTB mechs. The layout is confusing, but if you look again you'll see that the lever is referred to only in the section headed <In the case of MTB>.


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Posted: Mon Mar 13, 2017 9:50 pm 


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 13, 2017 10:30 pm 
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Posts: 457
Location: Great Southern Land
Hmm thanks WG, yes the user manual is a bit confusing. So no lever I must be using the wrong technique. With the RD9070 never had an issue with the RD9150 just does not seem to have enough spare. The RD cage and the smallest cog foul together. Staring to chip the carbon on the cage.....

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 13, 2017 10:49 pm 
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Get used to it. It seems that's just how it is. I had the same issue as you. Wheel removal is not as easy as prior versions. A side effect of positioning the rear derailleur further inboard perhaps? I'll be doing another install in the next couple of weeks where I will have more time to play with it and fiddle with the idiosyncracies. it will be 9100 mechanical. Haven't decided if I like it more or less than 9000 yet. Personally, I don't need the mega cog size capacity, and I don't really like the "extension" of the rear derailleur hanger. We shall see how it plays over the next few months of use. The levers are very nice however.

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 13, 2017 11:10 pm 
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Location: Great Southern Land
Bugger, was hoping it was just me missing something basic. Still have The RD9070 in the storage.......... may find it's way back on if this p##ses me off enough........... :roll:

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 13, 2017 11:22 pm 
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Well, I didn't really give it a thorough troubleshoot, and like you, thought it must be just me and that particular night. And maybe it was. But I'm starting to hear more people asking the same question so maybe it's not just us. I'll give the 9100 a good run through during the next install and really delve into just what's up with this. Maybe it's nothing more than just learning a new little "trick" or something.

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 13, 2017 11:45 pm 
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I thought one of the advantages of the new RD was that it would make wheel removal easier?


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 14, 2017 12:00 am 
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Location: Great Southern Land
BdaGhisallo wrote:
I thought one of the advantages of the new RD was that it would make wheel removal easier?


Exactly............... but it would seem that I am not on my own experiencing the opposite :oops:

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 14, 2017 4:37 am 
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Joined: Wed Oct 24, 2012 4:51 am
Posts: 54
Location: NY
If you take a close look when you put the wheel back in, the direct mount piece (which mounts to the hanger) moves away from the derailleur hanger tab. Shimano specifically calls for that piece to rest on the hanger tab, so I had to loosen/re-tighten to get the RD installed back to spec. This is with 5NM to 8NM torque Shimano recommends when installing the RD. I tested both ends of the spectrum, and they moved away from the hanger tab no matter what.

I got irritated, so I started to look for what pro teams have done with 9150 RD.

I have Dogma F8 so I just looked for Team Sky for the obvious answer, as F10 shares the same RD hanger as F8. After taking a look at Team Sky's set up, I realized they have installed the RD with a gap between the hanger and the direct mount piece, despite what the Shimano manual says.

Image

This is the Shimano spec set-up

Image

and this is Kwiatkowski's F10 set-up.


Notice the noticeable difference in angles? If you can't see it, use two 5mm bolts as reference points. You will see that with Sky's setup, RD tilts quite a bit more toward the rear. It creates more 'space' for wheel to pop out. This makes wheel change a breeze, since there is no RD pivot spring to overcome.

Additionally, that kick toward rear from Sky's set-up made my chain tension problem with RD9150 disappear.

Overall, I am very disappointed with how RD9150 is designed, but I guess I have to make do with what i've got.


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 14, 2017 5:27 am 
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Location: Great Southern Land
@jwfinesse thank you, is this what you have done also [the different angle]? I was looking at maybe shaving some excess material from the pulley cage but your "fix" is certainly easier. I guess I could get the angle right then make a plastic spacer block and glue tape it in place. That would be easy to reverse

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 14, 2017 5:40 am 
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Joined: Wed Oct 24, 2012 4:51 am
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Location: NY
beanbiken wrote:
@jwfinesse thank you, is this what you have done also [the different angle]? I was looking at maybe shaving some excess material from the pulley cage but your "fix" is certainly easier. I guess I could get the angle right then make a plastic spacer block and glue tape it in place. That would be easy to reverse



Yeah, all I did was changing the angle of RD install.

What I did was:
1.Shift to small ring on the front, and 3rd smallest cog. (right at the cross chaining limit if you have 52/36 or 50/34)
2.With the chain tension bolt (on the back of the RD) all the way out, I manually tilted the RD backward until there was no slack in chain.
3.Holding RD in that position with my left hand, I torqued it to 8NM. This will give you enough space to make the wheel change easier.

It sounds your plastic 'stop' method would be more secure, but so far, my set-up didn't budge, so I might just stick with it for now.


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 14, 2017 9:02 am 
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Location: Great Southern Land
Did the "plastic stopper" idea, just used a piece of thin plastic bent at 90 degrees and held in place with glue tape, heaps of room to drop the wheel out now. But while looking at it I can't see why I couldn't shave some of the material off the back of the "link" where the RD body contacts it as you lift the RD out of the way to drop your wheel out. That should let the RD sit in it's designed position in relation to the cassette.............. thoughts?

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 15, 2017 12:42 am 
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Joined: Thu Jul 19, 2012 6:09 pm
Posts: 1109
Location: Loveland, CO
The only benefit I see with the 9150 is the direct mount. But it seems manufacturers are reluctant to make a direct mount hanger. Someone here did mention that Shimano is pricing the OEM group cheaper without the direct mount 'link' in an effort to speed up the use of direct mounts. I want the 9150 however I refuse to buy the 9150 until I can get an OEM direct mount. So far I haven't seen a direct mounted 9150 even on Pro bikes. Strange.


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 15, 2017 1:39 am 
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What is the benefit to a direct mount? Actually, let me take two steps back and ask first, how does a direct mount hanger differ from a regular hanger and then... what is the benefit to it in the context of a normal road bike?

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 15, 2017 10:58 am 
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Location: NorthEU
Thanks guys for sharing. I hope you keep posting your findings and assessments on this.

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Posted: Wed Mar 15, 2017 10:58 am 


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