ee brakes + powercordz
Moderator: robbosmans
decided i needed some new ww bling for my shiny bike and ordered some ee brakes from starbike - replacing the 2009 vintage sram red calipers, which are really ok though for really hard braking lever force needed seems high
i've been using powercordz for the last 5-6 years, has anyone use them with the current ee brakes? any tips?
i saw some postings about use on older versions, seems possible but fiddly to get the knot right
can always revert to steel if need be, but grams are grams
adding 'cycleworks' so search can find the thread
i've been using powercordz for the last 5-6 years, has anyone use them with the current ee brakes? any tips?
i saw some postings about use on older versions, seems possible but fiddly to get the knot right
can always revert to steel if need be, but grams are grams
adding 'cycleworks' so search can find the thread
Last edited by sungod on Fri Mar 10, 2017 2:42 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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I would say make sure you dial in the setup with steel cables first. Then replace with powercordz. I remember when I used to use powercordz, you had to get it right the first time and don't touch again.
just fitted them, some notes/comments...
the old brakes were sram red (from 2009), to get outer length correct for the ee brakes needed an extra nokon segment at the front and two at the rear
i only had one spare powercordz brake cable, it's a few years old so decided to sacrifice it for the rear and use steel on the front for now
i didn't do a knot with the powercordz cable, but ran it 180 degrees in a U around the clamp bolt
with adjusters at minimum tension, held pads to the rim and applied tension to the cables before clamping, then squeezed levers ***hard*** to seat the outers and nokon segments, front was pretty much perfect with minimum pads clearance, the rear needed a couple turns of the adjuster to reduce the gap
i was a bit surprised/annoyed than one of the cable clamping bolts had a malformed head, hex key would not go in all the way (i tried a few, all in good condition), had to be careful to avoid rounding the head when clamping, i'll email and see if they can send a spare for future use
aside from misplacing the square washer from the dodgy bolt while examining it - took me a tense 15 minutes to find it! - things were really straightforward
weight including pads was 205.5g ...
had a quick test ride, braking seems good, i do wish they did them in silver though!
the old brakes were sram red (from 2009), to get outer length correct for the ee brakes needed an extra nokon segment at the front and two at the rear
i only had one spare powercordz brake cable, it's a few years old so decided to sacrifice it for the rear and use steel on the front for now
i didn't do a knot with the powercordz cable, but ran it 180 degrees in a U around the clamp bolt
with adjusters at minimum tension, held pads to the rim and applied tension to the cables before clamping, then squeezed levers ***hard*** to seat the outers and nokon segments, front was pretty much perfect with minimum pads clearance, the rear needed a couple turns of the adjuster to reduce the gap
i was a bit surprised/annoyed than one of the cable clamping bolts had a malformed head, hex key would not go in all the way (i tried a few, all in good condition), had to be careful to avoid rounding the head when clamping, i'll email and see if they can send a spare for future use
aside from misplacing the square washer from the dodgy bolt while examining it - took me a tense 15 minutes to find it! - things were really straightforward
weight including pads was 205.5g ...
had a quick test ride, braking seems good, i do wish they did them in silver though!
A picture of the cable clamp area will be much appreciated!
Kayrehn wrote:A picture of the cable clamp area will be much appreciated!
this shows the powercordz clamped
note that i left the end long, this is so that there is enough to grip with pliers and pull it tighter after a few rides once the nokon beads have snugged down under pressure
i'm checking it to see how it goes, looks like it will be a wet ride today too
it's only like this on the rear which is lower risk
as it's an old cable i'm experimenting to see how it goes, then i'll decide if/how i want to change it
i could certainly get a knot in there, also will see if the windsor clasp will fit
it's only like this on the rear which is lower risk
as it's an old cable i'm experimenting to see how it goes, then i'll decide if/how i want to change it
i could certainly get a knot in there, also will see if the windsor clasp will fit
I've been using cordz w/ eebrakes for a few years now. It's a one and done deal with tightening, much like the pic of the 180 turn posted previously. One time I needed more tension and since I was pulling the cable further I was able to adjust and re-tighten it. If I had to go the other way it would've been a wasted cord.
Speedplay is the devil!
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