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PostPosted: Thu Feb 09, 2017 1:40 am 
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Joined: Thu Dec 03, 2015 5:03 am
Posts: 110
I was checking the internet looking for good ideas on saving weight for a climbing project bike that I'm putting together

The build:
Parlee z5sli size S tall head tube used but in good condition ( black)
Lightweight standard 3 clincher (old new wheelset)
Obermayer skewers
Specialized turbo black 24x700c
Stock headset.
Extralite black stem 100mm 6 degree.
Lightweight rennbugel 42mm handlebar
Lizards 1.8 bar tape.
Campagnolo super record mechanical ( mini group)
eebrakes
Thm clavicula cranks 172.5 with stronglight alloy chaingrinhs for campy 52/36, thm crankset bolt and thm bb pf30 to bb30.
Tiso cassette with tiso lock nut 11s.
Tune carbon seatpost
Selle Italia lightweight saddle ti rail, I can use an axlightness all carbon but I preferred the selle Italia
Token seatpost clamp.
Tune magnesium stem spacers.

Here is my question: what to use for a good shifting ( cable/housing) and for good braking modulation ( cable/housing). I got in touch with fair bike guys and they recommended powercordz for shifting cable and aican bus cable with kcnc titanium cables for the brakes.

Do you have any particular combination do you like or have you used on the past with really outstanding results that you guys can actually recommend for this climbing bike project.

Much appropriate any advice you can give me...!!!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 10, 2017 6:41 am 
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Joined: Wed Apr 08, 2009 5:23 am
Posts: 594
Location: Olympic Nat'l Park, WA
Personally I've never had good results with Powercordz. Cables should be utmostly reliable, and the KCNC is that. If they don't make a 4mm cable there's got to be other proven ones. (Sorry Powercordz minions!)

You can get a more lightweight wheelset, unless you're wedded to Lightweight.

And consider a single ring up front and a wider 11sp. cassette, say 11-32?

"A climbing project bike" can be alot of things. A race bike that's UCI compliant? A non-UCI sub-10lb. hillblaster? More details might help.


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Posted: Fri Feb 10, 2017 6:41 am 


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 10, 2017 7:10 am 
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Joined: Wed Apr 11, 2012 3:40 am
Posts: 754
I'd get the KCNC ti cables for both shift and brake.

As above, what do you want this bike to do? Big mountain rides? Hill climbs?


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 10, 2017 7:47 am 
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Joined: Mon Jul 13, 2009 9:19 pm
Posts: 347
Location: Denmark
If you want all black chainrings, B.O.R could be an option, they are lighter than stronglight and they also stay black much longer than stronglight


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 10, 2017 8:25 am 
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Joined: Wed Jan 19, 2011 11:14 am
Posts: 1772
Location: SYD
my recommendations based on making the bike reliable enough to ride a lot...

jag wire elite link housing an the dlc Ti cables around,
praxis buzz rings and extralite chain ring bolts.. also not the clavicula classics, use the m3 ( easiest set up ) or the clavicula SE cranks the classics need you to put the cranks in the freezer to get the tolerances right to fit them... not awesome..

SRAM red cassette.. 40-50g heavier but.. won't lose teeth the first time you full gas shift the bike.

MCFK post.. has stickers is lighter and looks better

berk Lupina saddle or C64

if you have the budget get etap i can tell you right now that you'll build a bike thats around 300g lighter as z5 has such crap cable routing for mechanical and having over 2.5 meters of housing running through the frame is a weight weenie nightmare

ee cycle works expander ( lightest and actually works ) extralite ultra topcap ( 8g with the ee expander )
no spacers..

MCFK 12mm/35mm ( custom order ) expander

alloy cage bottle and tune cages

graphene speed corsa tires or the pro speeds and either latex tubes or conti super sonics..

KNC ti chain ( not the best for performance but the best for weight )

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 10, 2017 8:43 am 
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Joined: Sun Jan 26, 2014 3:44 am
Posts: 723
Not got any particular recommendations for parts, but I am into fast hard climbing, so from experience the main parts that get a kicking are the rear hub, cassette, stem and bars, and pedals. Also, the seat post needs to be decent to take the shunting around it gets from your arse.

Given this, I reckon a good climbing bike that will be able to ridden hard should include;

-Strong, mid-weight rear hub, like a DT 240s. Just suck up the weight here, and go light on the front hub.
-Skewers strong enough to take a lot of torque. Again, mid-weight, not weightweenie here would be best.
-Cassette from one of the big guys; SRAM, Campag, or Shimano. Don't fanny about with a weenie cassette.
-Stem; I have the Extralite HyperStem and it has been excellent so far for all my climbing hammerage.
-Bars; can get away with carbon bars, but alloy might be better, depending on your weight / how hench your arms are.
-Pedals; obviously Dura Ace. #pedalmasterrace

The rest of it... well, that can be whatever weightweenie stuff you want.

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 10, 2017 9:00 am 
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Posts: 921
Low profile wheels from Ax Lightness or Extralite, probably cheaper too unless you already have the Lightweights lying around.

No expander plug, just a Schmolke plug. If you're going into ww extremism using ti cables etc, why bother with an expander sitting there doing nothing.

Lots of weight savings to be gained from light skewers, all depends on how comfortable you are with them.

Light tires definitely. Vittoria Speed should last decently, if it's only for races then just get the lightest tufo ones. Glue not tape.

Sram XG-1190 cassette, pricey but light.

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 10, 2017 12:09 pm 
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Posts: 723
What about the power meter?

Lightest is the 4iii left side, isn't it?

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 10, 2017 7:47 pm 
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Joined: Tue Mar 18, 2003 9:42 pm
Posts: 2390
agree, stay away from powercordz. not very reliable and don't work well with brakes like thm fibula. also, if you ever need to adjust derailleur where you have to loosen the cable bolt, the cable is frayed because of the bolt pressure.


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 11, 2017 12:51 am 
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Joined: Thu Nov 10, 2005 5:31 pm
Posts: 3844
You can cut a lot out on a true climbing bike. If this is strictly for climbing I would be running an 1 x10/11 build so I do not have to worry about a FD, extra ring, gutted left lever, no compression device in the steerer and as light as possible on all other items.

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AERO & LIGHT is RIGHT

Cervelo SLC 5960g/13.13 lbs


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 11, 2017 2:36 pm 
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Posts: 723
BmanX wrote:
You can cut a lot out on a true climbing bike. If this is strictly for climbing I would be running an 1 x10/11 build so I do not have to worry about a FD, extra ring, gutted left lever, no compression device in the steerer and as light as possible on all other items.


Unless you climb faster in the big ring...

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PostPosted: Sat Feb 11, 2017 4:55 pm 
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Posts: 3844
Then what do you need the small ring for. Either way you cut weight by going 1x

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BIG DADDY B FLOW
AERO & LIGHT is RIGHT

Cervelo SLC 5960g/13.13 lbs


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 12, 2017 10:33 am 
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Joined: Wed Jan 19, 2011 11:14 am
Posts: 1772
Location: SYD
forget about the DA peddles.. you may as well put in a sack with some bricks and throw it in the river..

Ti speedplays, Keo blades, or Time Expresso 15s...

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 13, 2017 6:04 am 
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Joined: Wed Apr 08, 2009 5:23 am
Posts: 594
Location: Olympic Nat'l Park, WA
sugarkane wrote:
forget about the DA peddles.. you may as well put in a sack with some bricks and throw it in the river..

LOL, no need for extra bricks, those would anchor any boat on their own!
I never understood why Shimano made such heavy pedals.


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Posted: Mon Feb 13, 2017 6:04 am 


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 15, 2017 10:23 pm 
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Posts: 110
Firts....... thank you so much for all your great ideas and commends, as i got in touch with sugarkane, this bike will be all around bike but with a climbing dna on it, for all the 2-3 miles climbs and the 5 miles climb on beart mountain that i do on my gran fondo ride, as all of you said, i would like to have something light enought to fly over those hills, but also be good to take the hammer down on the sprints.

So far i was able to get the sram etap that sugarkane suggested via email, no cables for shifting, only i-link with kcnc ti cable for the ee brakes, i still try to make up my mind for the chainrings, options at me moment are:
carbon-ti (53/39)
extralite or frm (52/36)
praxis work (52/36)

the last one may be a bit on the heavier side than the other two choices but a lot of people said they are very reliables.
Pedals, hands down my ti speedplay tuned, tires specialized cotton turbo 24x700c with continental supersonic tube,
lightweight obermayer skewers, and the schmolke solo cap no plug expander sound like a great idea and makes a lot of sence, no need for extra weight carrying the expander plug.

As right now the build looks like this:
Parlee z5sli size S tall head tube used but in good condition ( black)
Lightweight standard 3 clincher (old new wheelset)
Obermayer skewers
specialized cotton turbo 24x700c with supersonic tubes
Stock headset.
Extralite black stem 100mm 6 degree.
Lightweight rennbugel 42mm handlebar
Lizards 1.8 bar tape.
sram etap no blips
eebrakes
Thm clavicula cranks 172.5 (extralite or praxis) chaingrinhs 52/36, thm bolt and thm bb pf30 to bb30.
sram red xg1190 cassette 11s.
Tune carbon seatpost
ax lightness saddle all carbon.
Tune seatpost clamp.
Tune magnesium stem spacers.
kmc ti chain.
i-link brake cables with kcnc ti cables as dlc are back order at fairwheelbikes.
schmolke head cap and bar plug.
fabric bottle/cageless systems. alloy screws with plastic connectors 3 grams all together. if dont want to use the bottle i save 12-15 grams per cage.

will post pictures as soon as i get my scale and some time to get these parts all together....!!! hope fully it will be between 5kg to 6kg.


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