Looking for forum members' input (bike fit data)

Back by popular demand, the general all-things Road forum!

Moderator: robbosmans

joejack951
Posts: 1162
Joined: Fri Feb 18, 2005 6:50 pm
Location: Wilmington, DE
Contact:

by joejack951

cmcdonnell wrote:Any thoughts?


Go with what works. For years I set up my bikes with minimal saddle to bar drop because 'everyone' said only pros and posers should run big drops (10cm+). I'm very flexible and can almost palm the ground bending over but heeded those warnings anyway, until quite recently. Turns out, I am just as, if not more, comfortable running ~11cm of saddle to bar drop (the most I could manage on my current frame with -6° stem) and slightly less reach than my previous set ups having switched to compact handlebars. I am also faster thanks to being more aero.

I've never had a professional fit but I can't imagine they'd set up an almost 40 year old guy,, who doesn't get out on the bike nearly as much as he used to, with that much drop. But it works for me. And hopefully I manage to get back to my 6000+ mile/year cycling days soon.

by Weenie


Visit starbike.com Online Retailer for HighEnd cycling components
Great Prices ✓    Broad Selection ✓    Worldwide Delivery ✓

www.starbike.com



peted76
Posts: 433
Joined: Mon Jun 23, 2014 10:30 pm

by peted76

joejack951 wrote:Saddle setback is a very awkward measurement to take. I propped up my bike and used a 48" (1.2m) level standing vertical and aligned with the center of the bottom bracket. Then I measured as suggested, from the tip of the saddle to the level's edge. I'd guess I'm within 5mm of actual setback using that method.

For handlebar drop, measure saddle height from the floor and then handlebar height from the floor. Subtract the latter from the former.

At some point, I want to take photographs of my bikes using a long (200mm+) lens for a flat projection and then bring those images into Solidworks. I can then scale the images to a known reference measurement (like the distance from tire edge to tire edge) and be able to pull accurate measurements of all other geometry. I've used this method to reverse engineer awkward parts with very good results. A CMM would be nice but not in the budget.


Use a plumb line.
Your very welcome :)

User avatar
fa63
Posts: 2533
Joined: Mon Feb 19, 2007 7:26 am
Location: Atlanta, GA, US

by fa63

peted76 wrote:Use a plumb line.
Your very welcome :)


You can do that. Or another way is to push your rear wheel against a vertical wall, then measure the horizontal distance from the wall to the center of BB and also from the wall to the tip of the saddle. Subtract the latter from the former, and there is your setback.

joejack951
Posts: 1162
Joined: Fri Feb 18, 2005 6:50 pm
Location: Wilmington, DE
Contact:

by joejack951

You guys are making me feel not so smrt.

GJMadone069
Posts: 39
Joined: Mon Jan 23, 2017 11:24 am
Location: Ghent Belgium

by GJMadone069

I added my data, interesting to compare them with others

Post Reply