Dura Ace Di2; Green Light System Freeze...?

[goodboyr]

Just checked mine and it does the same thing.
I've got the new internal battery and wireless with Bluetooth. Latest firmware.

Sent from my SM-G900W8 using Tapatalk
https://vimeo.com/197701244

[TheDarkInstall]

Just checked mine and it does the same thing.
I've got the new internal battery and wireless with Bluetooth. Latest firmware.

Sent from my SM-G900W8 using Tapatalk
https://vimeo.com/197701244

Ha, that is exactly it!!

Thanks so much for the video!

OK, so is your system working without error then (ie, is this normal behavior for the lights when battery checking?). If so, this must have changed as part of a firmware update...

[goodboyr]

Correct. My system is working without error, and connects to the e tube software via Bluetooth. I've never noticed this before so I believe it's an artifact of the new components and firmware. I note that to synch the Bluetooth to the e tube on my ipad you push the junction button which causes both LEDs to light up and flash. So there are now more modes for those LEDs to light up.
As well, according to the manual, the new synchroshift modes will be indicated with these lights, with manual mode ( the one we are all operating with now) is solid red and green as I am seeing. So perhaps this is normal behaviour telling you that you are in "manual" shift mode.
Sent from my SM-G900W8 using Tapatalk

[TheDarkInstall]

OK thanks.

Well I am getting this exact light behavior too, and just have the standard cable system with no Bluetooth or eTube hardware added.

Right, so this rules out the lights being a part of the freezing issue I am having. That is good, and once again thanks for making the video!

[Ritxis]

Correct. My system is working without error, and connects to the e tube software via Bluetooth. I've never noticed this before so I believe it's an artifact of the new components and firmware. I note that to synch the Bluetooth to the e tube on my ipad you push the junction button which causes both LEDs to light up and flash. So there are now more modes for those LEDs to light up.
As well, according to the manual, the new synchroshift modes will be indicated with these lights, with manual mode ( the one we are all operating with now) is solid red and green as I am seeing. So perhaps this is normal behaviour telling you that you are in "manual" shift mode.
Sent from my SM-G900W8 using Tapatalk

That is, with the new firmware if activated chose one of the 2 modes "synchro" lights led, act in a different way

[goodboyr]

Correct. My system is working without error, and connects to the e tube software via Bluetooth. I've never noticed this before so I believe it's an artifact of the new components and firmware. I note that to synch the Bluetooth to the e tube on my ipad you push the junction button which causes both LEDs to light up and flash. So there are now more modes for those LEDs to light up.
As well, according to the manual, the new synchroshift modes will be indicated with these lights, with manual mode ( the one we are all operating with now) is solid red and green as I am seeing. So perhaps this is normal behaviour telling you that you are in "manual" shift mode.
Sent from my SM-G900W8 using Tapatalk

That is, with the new firmware if activated chose one of the 2 modes "synchro" lights led, act in a different way

[TheDarkInstall]

Right that makes sense now.

So, when you hold down a shift button, you get two things displayed now, instead of one. You get the battery level first, then immediately after you get the type of shifting being used displayed. Got it.

Again, this doesn't fix my freezing issue but at least I know it is nothing to do with this mystery new light combo being displayed (which is no longer a mystery)

Now to figure out what is causing the freezing...

[TheDarkInstall]

Right, I think I have got to the bottom of the problem

I took my bike down the shop, where they conveniently have an Ultegra 6870 demo set up on a desk. They have bars and shifters mounted to a clear perspex stand, with the shifters on little columns under the bars, so customers can play around with the shifting. I borrowed that, and started swapping out the different elements into my system. Quickly found that the front mech from their set up was a LOT quieter and faster shifting. Plugging mine back in, it sounded really rough, like the servo was wrecked. I swapped out all the other parts a few times, just to be sure, but could only get the freezing issue to happen when my front mech was being used. Decided it was probably that, borrowed the shops Ultegra front mech, went out for a ride and couldn't make the issue happen again. The knackered Dura Ace front mech is now on it's way to Shimano to get warrantied.

I did have a look at the buggered front mech before handing it over to the shop, and observed the following;

-When shifting, the outer plastic shell would twist against itself, visibly moving. I took the shell off, to discover that it is not just a cosmetic part, but actually necessary for the mech to shift. The silver coloured section that sits to the front when mounted on the bike actually holds the top servo section together with the lower cage section, enabling the shifting to work. Weird that it was writhing about... I was not an early adopter of Di2, so this is not some first gen cock up, so something else must have been going on with it.

-When I took the silver plastic structural cover off I found a load of rust on the arm coming out of the servo. Not sure why Shimano specced a material so prone to rust. They should have made it out of the stuff they made the cage from...

So there you go. Fingers crossed this is the issue found.

Interesting also, how the front mech dying would sometimes cause the whole system to freeze, with the rear mech not working either...

[beanbiken]

Thanks for the follow up which hopefully you have (almost) put to bed. If the rust is the cause of the malfunction do you believe that Shimano will warrant it or suggest it is user "error". Now I am not for a moment suggesting that it is but wondering if Shimano will use it as "bad luck" clause?

[wheelsONfire]

^ short circuit of some sort?

I would like to know how the UL 6870 is different in the internals compared to 9070.
At times it seems as the first premium groupset is supposedly best, in this case 9070 or new 9150.
But as the tech trickles down, there is a possibilty that an update is implemented, even if it's
a cheaper groupset.

I burned a fuel cell in my battery.
(But actually i think it was on me.)
I did connected the charger to an in wall adapter. So i guess there's a problem with how much juice is introduced.

[cyclespeed]

I burned a fuel cell in my battery.
(But actually i think it was on me.)
I did connected the charger to an in wall adapter. So i guess there's a problem with how much juice is introduced.

Yep, Shimano told me not to use wall chargers (I think the quality varies), and only go through a computer. This solved my battery charge issues and those of a tour client too.

[glepore]

Op-glad you found it.

Also good to know about the wall chargers. I've been using one for a long while, but will switch back to the laptop.

[kode54]

I burned a fuel cell in my battery.
(But actually i think it was on me.)
I did connected the charger to an in wall adapter. So i guess there's a problem with how much juice is introduced.

Yep, Shimano told me not to use wall chargers (I think the quality varies), and only go through a computer. This solved my battery charge issues and those of a tour client too.

i never heard that wall chargers were bad...but i suppose the inconsistencies with voltage can vary. the wall charger i use is the same one that i use with the Garmin and has been working for several years.

[goodboyr]

In general, the output of the usb charger has to be 1 amp or greater for the shimano batteries. I use this multicharger that auto adjusts to maximize output for any device.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00YRYS4T4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[wheelsONfire]

We will damage a battery if we are not using a in wall adapter with resistors (check output voltage).
It must match the output from a PC.
A wall outlet has much more juice than through a PC usb port.
It has nothing to do with quality of the charging is better in a PC usb over the outlet.