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Which option would you pick?
Option 1 - Build it now with R785 DI2 shifters 10%  10%  [ 3 ]
Option 2 - Wait and build it with 9170 DA DI2 shifters 34%  34%  [ 10 ]
Option 3 - Wait and build it with eTAP HRD 28%  28%  [ 8 ]
Option 4 - Wait and build with new Ultegra 10%  10%  [ 3 ]
Option 5 - Something else 14%  14%  [ 4 ]
Option 6 - tldr but I like voting 3%  3%  [ 1 ]
Total votes: 29
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 21, 2016 7:39 am 
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Treelegs wrote:
Felt seems to have the best out of the box package at the moment with their FR2.

Does anyone have experience with Cervelo's R3D or C series yet? (And soon the S3D)

I e read too many conflicting storiess of going with the unique offset chain line/crank or just going mainstream standard offset.

It seems all designs (brands) currently have a major drawback and you just pick your poison.



I have a Giant TCR disc with 405mm chain stays and there is some chain rub if I cross chain the small ring to the 11,12,13 cogs, which is something I wouldn't do anyway, so it has been a non issue


.

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 21, 2016 9:46 am 
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I noted prices for new DA Di2. If money is of no issue, i would go for option 2.
If you have had a bike and wanted to upgrade, i had picked option 4.

I run UL Di2 with R785 now and i think it works great.
Back when i bought mine, both DA 9070 and UL 6870 had same calipers and shifters.

TA standards seems set. For road bikes 12*100 and 12*142.

UCI rules i would not bother with if i wasn't competing.
I've seen some rotors are now rounded at the Edges (Hope for instance).
My guess is that the rotors/ calipers will have some covers for road bikes.
Both for safety and perhaps "aero gains".

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 21, 2016 11:58 am 
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Treelegs wrote:
Does anyone have experience with Cervelo's R3D or C series yet? (And soon the S3D)

The R3Ds ride brilliantly, though are a bit heavier than claimed, IMO. The C series is phenomenal, if I had the money it would be my ideal winter bike, though too relaxed geo for a nice summer bike. A colleague rode the S3D and said he thought it was better than his new Evo Hi-Mod non-disc. To be fair though, that was at the dealer camp in Spain on lovely roads and sunshine, so it's easy to get suckered in to loving everything :wink: There are rumours that the next R5 platform is due in springtime though, maybe side by side R5 and R5D when that happens? That, I think, would be hard to resist.

Otherwise, as an early adopter Focus had it nailed with the Izalco Max disc. RAT thru axles, light weight, every other feature and characteristic of the non-disc version... Couple of years old design now though, maybe due a revamp.


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 21, 2016 12:03 pm 
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MoPho wrote:
madcow wrote:
I think it depends on the frame/fork. If the frame and fork are made for flat mount disc then wait and go DA or Sram when they come out in the spring/summer. If it's a post mount frame build it with current 785.



Why, you can get the RS805 flat mount calipers now?


Painting the silver cover on the 785 levers black helps the looks of them a lot too


.


@MoPho - how did you go about painting the silver cover? Do you have any pics? Sounds like a great idea...

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 21, 2016 12:15 pm 
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I would wait util the mechanical version of shimano's new ultegra or dura ace(R9120) versions are out. shimano has reworked hydro-disc support on the new group sets and in my view its worth waiting for. you'll only wind up spending twice. the new group set should be lighter and more suited for a road bike instead of being an adaptation in the case of what's currently out there.

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Last edited by fromtrektocolnago on Fri Dec 23, 2016 12:40 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 21, 2016 7:56 pm 
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greentimgreen wrote:

@MoPho - how did you go about painting the silver cover? Do you have any pics? Sounds like a great idea...


I popped the covers off and sprayed them with black Plasti-dip (which if you're not familiar with is a rubberized paint that can be peeled off) just to see how it looked. It's holding up well so, but if it comes off, I will use regular matte black spray paint to make it more permanant.
I don't know why Shimano made the covers silver, it just emphasizes the size of the hoods

Image

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 21, 2016 10:23 pm 
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Amazing! Great job!

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 22, 2016 10:21 am 
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Thats a good upgrade compared to the grey ones, nice job!


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 22, 2016 10:41 am 
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MoPho wrote:
greentimgreen wrote:

@MoPho - how did you go about painting the silver cover? Do you have any pics? Sounds like a great idea...


I popped the covers off and sprayed them with black Plasti-dip (which if you're not familiar with is a rubberized paint that can be peeled off) just to see how it looked. It's holding up well so, but if it comes off, I will use regular matte black spray paint to make it more permanant.
I don't know why Shimano made the covers silver, it just emphasizes the size of the hoods

Image


Hmm. might give that a go. Do they pop off easily enough? No plastic tabs to snap or anything?


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 22, 2016 11:04 am 
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Broady wrote:
Hmm. might give that a go. Do they pop off easily enough? No plastic tabs to snap or anything?


very easy, because very sturdy. it's not really a plastic part at first sight, feels more like an alumimium one.

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 22, 2016 7:14 pm 
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Broady wrote:
Hmm. might give that a go. Do they pop off easily enough? No plastic tabs to snap or anything?



You peel back the rubber and there is a tiny screw (easy to lose, ask me how I know ...) at the top you need to remove, then it should pop out with a little force. Also to note, apparently they are left and right specific, there is a tiny little L & R markings on the side to look for when putting them back on


.

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 23, 2016 11:51 am 
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Posts: 223
MoPho wrote:
Broady wrote:
Hmm. might give that a go. Do they pop off easily enough? No plastic tabs to snap or anything?



You peel back the rubber and there is a tiny screw (easy to lose, ask me how I know ...) at the top you need to remove, then it should pop out with a little force. Also to note, apparently they are left and right specific, there is a tiny little L & R markings on the side to look for when putting them back on


.


Great, thanks.


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