Wilier Cento1SR BB386 and Campag UT
Moderator: robbosmans
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I would bet that all the reports u have read about press fit cups walking out or creaking are due to improper or faulty installation. The best solution is Campagnolo cups AND proper installation using Loctite 609 or stronger and primer/activator per Campagnolo instructions.
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I'd go with the campy cups and a proper install. What's it going in? What Corky says is correct in that they changed the cups some time ago. However, bad installs still seem to be more common than not, regardless of which pressfit solution you go with. And manufacturing tolerances on carbon shells can still be suspect, adding to the problem.
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So, as long as it's not one of the older Wiliers that had the proprietary shell where the campy cranks just slipped right into, you should be fine. I'm presuming yours is a 46mm id carbon shell? If so, just make sure everything is super clean (clean out all grease etc with acetone and/or White Lightning Clean Streak). Then apply some primer, followed by Loctite 609, and press in to the frame using a good press, preferably the Campy press made for exactly this. I don't have one yet, but having used others (good quality as well) I think I will get one just because it's one of those things that fits the cups perfectly and solidly and ensures the cups are perfectly aligned in the shell. If you do this, I doubt you will experience any problems down the road.
Colnago C64 - The Naked Build; Colnago C60 - PR99; Trek Koppenberg - Where Emonda and Domane Meet;
Unlinked Builds (searchable): Colnago C59 - 5 Years Later; Trek Emonda SL Campagnolo SR; Special Colnago EPQ
Unlinked Builds (searchable): Colnago C59 - 5 Years Later; Trek Emonda SL Campagnolo SR; Special Colnago EPQ
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corky wrote:Not totally true......campagnolo changed the design of their cups to make them deeper....a lot of the complaints were with the first edition.
In itself not totally correct corky.
The initial complaints came from no advice being offered with regard to bonding.
Even the older (pre 2015 design) cups are fine "if" the bonding is done correctly and "if" the BB shell tolerances are within a stone's throw of acceptable.
Part of the motivation for the re-design of the cups with a longer parallel area was around the knowledge that dimension / concentricity tolerances in PF BB shell manufacture are, sure as eggs is eggs, only ever going to get progressively worse as frame makers try and draw pricing down even further and secondly to allow mechanics to be perhaps a bit less scrupulous about proper cleaning of the BB shell and proper use of the recommended bonding agents.
Additionally there are *still* some customers, aftermarket and OE, that haven't read the memo and are still taking "Press Fit" as the literal instruction and not bonding.
We fitted a huge number of PF cups of the pre-2015 design and refitted quite a number that had been poorly assembled with the only instances of creaking, once they were correctly bonded into place being in cases where the BB shells were so far out of tolerance that not even Loctite 641 could do the job it was there to do. There are limits to what can be done to correct shoddy manufacture or rescue a frame FUBAR'd by poor initial installation.
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Pls contact via velotechcycling"at"aim"dot"com, not PM, for a quicker answer. Thanks!
Head Tech, Campagnolo main UK ASC
Pls contact via velotechcycling"at"aim"dot"com, not PM, for a quicker answer. Thanks!
Although I do like going with a Campagnolo BB386 UT cup, what's everyone's opinion of using the wheels manufacturing solution? I like that it screws in- I imagine that this would be a good solution for the "creaking" and would eliminate the need for loctite
http://wheelsmfg.com/bottom-brackets/bb ... black.html
http://wheelsmfg.com/bottom-brackets/bb ... black.html
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r_mutt wrote:Although I do like going with a Campagnolo BB386 UT cup, what's everyone's opinion of using the wheels manufacturing solution? I like that it screws in- I imagine that this would be a good solution for the "creaking" and would eliminate the need for loctite
http://wheelsmfg.com/bottom-brackets/bb ... black.html
Heavier option. More costly. Sometimes not possible on account of internal cabling/screw poking through into BB shell. There are also the Praxis ones.
I would give the Camapg cups a go first.
r_mutt wrote:Although I do like going with a Campagnolo BB386 UT cup, what's everyone's opinion of using the wheels manufacturing solution? I like that it screws in- I imagine that this would be a good solution for the "creaking" and would eliminate the need for loctite
http://wheelsmfg.com/bottom-brackets/bb ... black.html
That isn't for Campag Ultra Torque cranks
r_mutt wrote:was going to try to install a Record UT crank in a Wilier Cento1SR.
I thought Wilier supplied their own cups for Campag with the frame?
5 8 5 wrote:r_mutt wrote:Although I do like going with a Campagnolo BB386 UT cup, what's everyone's opinion of using the wheels manufacturing solution? I like that it screws in- I imagine that this would be a good solution for the "creaking" and would eliminate the need for loctite
http://wheelsmfg.com/bottom-brackets/bb ... black.html
That isn't for Campag Ultra Torque cranksr_mutt wrote:was going to try to install a Record UT crank in a Wilier Cento1SR.
I thought Wilier supplied their own cups for Campag with the frame?
Hmmm maybe WM is not an option then.
I'll have to look into the goody bag supplied with the frame to see if there's a UT BB supplied.
Wilier cups are the only one which fits. Wilier shell is their own design and doesn't hold 386evo dimensions. If you'll press "Campagnolo 386evo bb cups" into frame bearings will seat to close nad taking of the slack is impossible ( shell is 1.2 mm narrower than minimum width ) - 4 weavy washers solve th problem ( tested ) . If you're lucky Wilier cups will fit tight in shell, if not they'll be "loose slip in / out" and then some fancy silicones & bonding composites is your only friends ( cups are made from delrin, so google how to glue delrin to other materials : fascinating lecture ! ).
If "I must" have "wilier 386-ish" bottom bracket again I would buy 386 crank for it ( Rotor ? ) ; this thing solves all issues incl chainline ( which you'll experience if you decide to install any 24mm crank ( like Shimano ).
How "sick" solution it is shows my cross frame ( bought from Dutch racing team, new / they switched to disc brakses, so canti frames had to go ) : Wilier made "limited edition" of this frame ( Cento Uno Cross Carbon ) replacing 386 by ... BSA bottom bracket ( and still on DT is huge "bb386 evo" logo ) .
If "I must" have "wilier 386-ish" bottom bracket again I would buy 386 crank for it ( Rotor ? ) ; this thing solves all issues incl chainline ( which you'll experience if you decide to install any 24mm crank ( like Shimano ).
How "sick" solution it is shows my cross frame ( bought from Dutch racing team, new / they switched to disc brakses, so canti frames had to go ) : Wilier made "limited edition" of this frame ( Cento Uno Cross Carbon ) replacing 386 by ... BSA bottom bracket ( and still on DT is huge "bb386 evo" logo ) .
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Mark Twain
I can be wrong, and have plenty of examples for that
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