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PostPosted: Sat Mar 11, 2017 4:42 am 
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Joined: Sat Mar 11, 2017 4:19 am
Posts: 4
How do I change shift mode? I'm a Di2 newbie. I'm using the iPad E-TUBE app. I got the latest firmware and I think I got synchro shift loaded on the bike. I saw the post about double tapping the EW90 to change shift mode, but I need more details. I'm also able to connect my Edge 520. It has a setting for "Shifting Mode" and has a "M Tap to Change" under it. When I select the function it goes to "Updating..." for a while and returns to the original display. It does not give me an option to change shift mode.


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 11, 2017 4:42 am 
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Joined: Sat Mar 11, 2017 4:19 am
Posts: 4
How do I change shift mode?

I'm a Di2 newbie. I'm using the iPad E-TUBE app. I got the latest firmware and I think I got synchro shift loaded on the bike. I saw the post about double tapping the EW90 to change shift mode, but I need more details. I'm also able to connect my Edge 520. It has a setting for "Shifting Mode" and has a "M Tap to Change" under it. When I select the function it goes to "Updating..." for a while and returns to the original display. It does not give me an option to change shift mode.


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Posted: Sat Mar 11, 2017 4:42 am 


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 11, 2017 5:40 am 
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Joined: Wed Oct 29, 2008 7:55 pm
Posts: 338
Sounds like you didn't have new battery.


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 11, 2017 6:08 am 
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Joined: Thu Jan 05, 2017 4:52 pm
Posts: 7
Rapid double clicking changes the mode in my 9070 group but the Garmin 820 screen doesn't seem to do anything when you tap it as prompted in the sensor setup screen.


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 11, 2017 6:32 am 
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Joined: Sat Mar 11, 2017 4:19 am
Posts: 4
I've got the new battery. I have changed my shifter configuration. I'm guessing the 520 problem is likely a Garmin issue. The 520 does not have a touch screen. Can you be specific about rapid button on the junction box. What are the LEDs doing?


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 11, 2017 6:39 am 
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Joined: Sat Mar 11, 2017 4:19 am
Posts: 4
I tried the button clicking again. I just wasn't clicking fast enough. It's working great. I may have to get out and ride tomorrow in crappy weather. Thanks!


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 11, 2017 3:42 pm 
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Joined: Wed Mar 17, 2004 1:38 pm
Posts: 1705
I have just come back from my first ride with syncro shift and consider me not interested. I tried semi-syncro for about 20 miles and then put it back into full manual mode. I feel much more in control of my gearing that way.


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 11, 2017 4:57 pm 
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Joined: Sun Mar 05, 2017 1:18 pm
Posts: 14
Aaaaggghhhh, my local bike shop GLUED my battery into my seat post when they built my bike last year. So I had to choose between breaking the battery or the seatpost!!

If you are interested, inside your battery are two slightly shorter than AA lithium cells and a circuit board about 3cm by 2cm all bound together with ribbon electrodes. :-)


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 11, 2017 5:00 pm 
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Joined: Fri Feb 17, 2006 6:22 am
Posts: 1747
Location: Zion
muppetkeeper wrote:
Aaaaggghhhh, my local bike shop GLUED my battery into my seat post when they built my bike last year. So I had to choose between breaking the battery or the seatpost!!

Sorry to hear about the rotten luck. As we all know from firsthand experience (good and bad), a great bike shop is worth their weight in gold (or just do it yourself).

_________________
5.7kg / 12.7lbs Addict SL w/PowerTap
9.3kg / 20.5lbs Scale 29 Pro ... woefully under-used
Retired: 5.9kg / 13lbs Addict R1 w/PowerTap ... lowest was 5.593kg / 12.33lbs


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 11, 2017 5:01 pm 
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Joined: Sat Mar 11, 2017 4:35 pm
Posts: 17
I've just setup the new BT-DN110 battery on my Trek Domane Di2 and checked out the Synchro Shift.

I have Dura Ace FD-9070 front Derailleur (and Dura Ace 50/34 Crank) but Ultegra 6870-GS rear derailleur and shifters, with an 11-32 cassette. I already had the EWW01 Wireless unit and didn't need to upgrade that, just the battery.

Really easy to upgrade and everything seems to work OK, just two little glitches so far, both of which I see others reporting here.

Tapping on my Garmin 1000 to change the shift mode shows updating, then leaves the mode unchanged, as others have reported, so I guess this is a problem with the firmware (I have the latest at both ends), either Garmin or Shimano, as the communication is breaking down between the two. Double clicking the button on the EW90-A junction box works fine, and the Garmin beeps and shows the new shift mode.

Finally, I have tried to customize the shift pattern for Full Synchro Shift, and it is all possible apart from I can't move the auto shift from the big ring to the little ring from the 28T cog to anything else apart from the 32T, I wanted to move it to the 25T, but for some reason all the other cogs are greyed out! I have tried moving the target cog up and down, but it makes no difference at all, only 28T or 32T can be selected. I see others report much the same thing, so either Shimano think there is a reason to stay in the big ring until 28T or they have a bug.

I've moved the switch from the little ring to the big ring down one cog to 14T, switching to 18T, as this is actually a smaller gap and means the change in front ring is delayed and possibly avoided. Reducing the number of front changes seems to make sense, as does making the ratio's slightly closer.

I wanted to change the shift to the little ring for the same reason, and to avoid having the chain quite as crossed (50T/28T) so hopefully Shimano will fix whatever is making this not possible.

I have left the button switches mirroring a mechanical setup, so I don't have to learn a new habit and can switch between bikes, but will only have to change the right hand up and down in full synchro shift. I still have the option of a manual change of the front ring, with the left hand. If I find I'm doing this a lot, I will give Semi Synchro a try, as shifting the rear 2 to match is something I currently do manually.

Well done Shimano for retro-fitting this to the older kit. They did get a new battery sale out of me, but I guess my battery would have needed replacing eventually!

Geoff


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 11, 2017 5:05 pm 
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Joined: Sun Mar 05, 2017 1:18 pm
Posts: 14
Johnny Rad wrote:
muppetkeeper wrote:
Aaaaggghhhh, my local bike shop GLUED my battery into my seat post when they built my bike last year. So I had to choose between breaking the battery or the seatpost!!

Sorry to hear about the rotten luck. As we all know from firsthand experience (good and bad), a great bike shop is worth their weight in gold (or just do it yourself).


I would have expected better from them. I would have gone to have it out with them, but they upgraded my bike to Di2 in exchange for some consulting I did for them, so thought it better to keep the relationship an ruin it for the £50 or so I hoped to get for the old battery. Still frustrating though.


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 11, 2017 5:28 pm 
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Joined: Fri Feb 17, 2006 6:22 am
Posts: 1747
Location: Zion
muppetkeeper wrote:
...so thought it better to keep the relationship an ruin it for the £50 or so I hoped to get for the old battery. Still frustrating though.


The high road is best. Difficult to take, but usually the best route. Good for you!

I'm surprisingly (ha!) far from perfect and know that it's easier said than done.

_________________
5.7kg / 12.7lbs Addict SL w/PowerTap
9.3kg / 20.5lbs Scale 29 Pro ... woefully under-used
Retired: 5.9kg / 13lbs Addict R1 w/PowerTap ... lowest was 5.593kg / 12.33lbs


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 11, 2017 5:40 pm 
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Joined: Sun Mar 05, 2017 1:18 pm
Posts: 14
Johnny Rad wrote:
muppetkeeper wrote:
...so thought it better to keep the relationship an ruin it for the £50 or so I hoped to get for the old battery. Still frustrating though.


The high road is best. Difficult to take, but usually the best route. Good for you!

I'm surprisingly (ha!) far from perfect and know that it's easier said than done.


It helps that I cut my hand open getting the battery bits out, and I didn't want to get blood on my handlebar tape cycling down to shout at them.... :lol:


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 11, 2017 7:14 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jun 06, 2016 8:45 am
Posts: 579
muppetkeeper wrote:
Aaaaggghhhh, my local bike shop GLUED my battery into my seat post when they built my bike last year. So I had to choose between breaking the battery or the seatpost!!

If you are interested, inside your battery are two slightly shorter than AA lithium cells and a circuit board about 3cm by 2cm all bound together with ribbon electrodes. :-)


That's bizarre!

Not only are there all kinds of cheap battery mounts that work well at keeping the battery in the seatpost, but if they really wanted to use something 'sticky', why not silicone, instead of glue? That would have held it, but it could still just be pulled out....

_________________
5 star and bespoke cycle tours in Majorca

Cycling related videos and reviews


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 11, 2017 7:16 pm 
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Joined: Sun Mar 05, 2017 1:18 pm
Posts: 14
cyclespeed wrote:
muppetkeeper wrote:
Aaaaggghhhh, my local bike shop GLUED my battery into my seat post when they built my bike last year. So I had to choose between breaking the battery or the seatpost!!

If you are interested, inside your battery are two slightly shorter than AA lithium cells and a circuit board about 3cm by 2cm all bound together with ribbon electrodes. :-)


That's bizarre!

Not only are there all kinds of cheap battery mounts that work well at keeping the battery in the seatpost, but if they really wanted to use something 'sticky', why not silicone, instead of glue? That would have held it, but it could still just be pulled out....


My new battery is held in with bubble wrap. I wrapped long cableties around the back end to help me pull it out if needed.


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Posted: Sat Mar 11, 2017 7:16 pm 


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