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PostPosted: Fri Nov 11, 2016 5:34 pm 
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Joined: Sun Aug 07, 2016 9:32 pm
Posts: 31
So I took delivery of a new super six evo a couple of months ago. Shortly into 2nd ride the bike developed what I thought was the dreaded BB creak that Cannondales are renowned for. The creak was only audible when the cranks were turned with pressure on them. And I’m not exaggerating, it could be heard from the opposite side of the road!

Not happy, I took the bike back to the LBS where they stripped down the SI Hollowgram cranks and spider, greased and re torqued everything. Within minutes of the first ride the creak was back with a vengeance.

Even more frustrated, I returned the bike to the LBS again where they then performed the official Cannondale ‘Loctite’ procedure for the press-fit 30 bearing cups. Happy days, bonded-in cups should eliminate any creak…or at least I thought. 5 minutes into the first ride out and again the same creak returns – ARRGH!

Not wanting to waste any more time with the LBS and time off the bike, armed with a torque wrench and crank puller I took matters into my own hands – determined to eradicate the creak!

Thinking It could be the fit of the cups in the frame, I purchased a wheels manufacturing press-fit BB. I applied the correct grease, installed with a press etc. Nice smooth bearings but it made no difference, creak still present. Removing and reinstalling with Loctite also made no difference. The red mist is beginning to fall at this point.

I was close to selling / sending the frame back to Cannondale and vowing never to purchase a bike with a press-fit BB ever again.

After hours of web research into creaking BB’s (I probably read anything on the net!) I stumbled upon C Bear, it appeared that they offered a solid solution to creaking press fit BB’s. After an email to Bart at C Bear, 4 days later my new ceramic press-fit BB arrived (Bart is a really great guy to deal with). It wasn’t cheap but I believed it was the answer to my prayers. You can probably guess what I’m going to say now – after carefully installing it, minutes into the first ride – CREAK CREAK..

I called Bart at C Bear, he was at a complete loss and I had just about given up at this point.

The following evening, I decided to give the bike a good clean in preparation for returning the frame to Cannondale as I thought there could be a serious defect like an oversize BB shell or even a crack. I proceeded to remove the rear derailleur, turning the thread there was a loud creak, not dissimilar to the BB creak. This RD was Sram RED with a Titanium hanger bolt. As most people know, Ti and Alu don’t mix that well. In the excitement of installing a new group set, I’d installed the the RD bolt into the Alu hanger DRY, no lube! Consider that I’d installed this group after the first ride on the new bike – this is when the creaking had started to surface.
So I added some Ti Prep to the bolt and hanger – you can probably guess, first ride out ZERO CREAK!

In turns out that the Ti bolt was creaking in the alu hanger when under torque from the pedal strokes – the chain stays were acting like a tuning fork resonating the sound to the BB area.

So it’s an embarrassing story but I learned a big lesson… I don’t feel quite so bad as the LBS didn’t pick this up, they also thought it was the BB! What I have gained is super smooth spinning cranks with virtually no drag thanks to the C Bear Ceramic BB. even without a creaky BB I can highly recommend these.




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Posted: Fri Nov 11, 2016 5:34 pm 


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 11, 2016 10:20 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 27, 2010 1:25 am
Posts: 156
Location: Glasgow, Scotland
:thumbup:

I love a happy ending to every story, especially one involving the dreaded press-fit BB :-)

Glad it all work out in the end, rmr40 & the best thing is acquiring some super smooth bearings in the process.

Cheers & long live the silent BB ..............

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PostPosted: Fri Nov 11, 2016 10:21 pm 
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Joined: Sat May 26, 2012 11:26 pm
Posts: 982
We've all been there mate. Not enough torque or loctite on the hollowgram spider lockring can do the same thing. As can skewer, loose pedal threads. I too have seen the red mist.

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PostPosted: Sat Nov 26, 2016 8:58 am 
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Joined: Sat Oct 22, 2016 5:29 am
Posts: 86
Mine was cured w a little grease on the back skewer where it touches the frame..


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PostPosted: Sat Nov 26, 2016 12:11 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jan 26, 2014 3:44 am
Posts: 723
That's nothing. I spent 3 hours taking my bike apart to find a creak yesterday. Found nothing. Went out again today, and the same clicking was happening when I was dancing about on the pedals up a climb.

Co2 canister hitting against my house key in my back pocket.

Lolz.

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PostPosted: Sat Nov 26, 2016 2:35 pm 
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Joined: Tue Aug 09, 2011 2:25 pm
Posts: 498
Location: Aloha, Oregon
Dark... I had the same thing happening. Thought the EVO was developing a problem again...lol

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PostPosted: Sat Nov 26, 2016 3:01 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jun 29, 2014 1:27 pm
Posts: 502
Thought it was my BB too, turns out Fulcrum rear hubs need a lot more force on the rear QR otherwise they click constantly when applying power. Happened to both Quattro Carbons and Racing Zero Carbon. LBS definitely was sick of me showing up at their door. Luckily the mechanic there figured it out.

BB30 isn't as bad as everyone thinks really.


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 08, 2016 12:53 am 
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Joined: Fri Jun 14, 2013 10:26 pm
Posts: 289
Location: LA
congrats!

sooo...do you have any of those extra bb's laying around?

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 08, 2016 4:49 am 
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Joined: Fri Oct 28, 2011 3:25 am
Posts: 1463
Location: United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland
I tried everything to silence a creak ... then discovered it was my right knee and now I am down for surgery.


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 08, 2016 7:47 am 
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Joined: Sat May 26, 2012 11:26 pm
Posts: 982
Hahaha. There is some gold in this thread. Glad i'm not the only one.

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Posted: Thu Dec 08, 2016 7:47 am 


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