My latest project, link below.

viewtopic.php?f=10&t=142373

The frame is a bb30 that the previous owner put in a Wheels Manufacturer sleeve and is running a GXP bottom bracket and a Force GXP crank. There are a few things I want to change. The cranks that came with the bike are 170mm and I want to try 165mm and what to end up with either a Power2Max or Quarq power meter at the tail end of all this. So the question is just leave it and work with GXP, I would still upgrade the bottom bracket besides crank or pull everything and go back to a BB30 ceramic bearing and bb30 crank since its lighter? I'm sure I can make the BB30 run silent as I did on my wife's bike.

Anyone have any thoughts on what direction to go?

Thank you for your thoughts and input on this.

J

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RESIDENT GRUMPY OLD MAN.

A properly installed BB30 should be fine for many 10,000s of km.
Loctite is your friend

There are a number of posts about this on WW

I hope you guys don't mind me borrowing the thread for a question.

I noticed my bb30 bearings (at least one of them) dont require much force to get out. Few gentle knocks and they are out. I don't even need a hammer on the extraction tool. Few hits with the open palm is enough. (I did grease the outside before install)

I'm not using any loctite 641 because I don't experience creaks. Should I still use loctite to protect the bb30 sleeve?

Should I be worried?

/a

as long as there's no creaking and no play once the cranks are mounted, i wouldn't worry

fwiw my bb30 xcr is 6+ year old, i've always been able to fit/remove the bearings by hand, i always use waterproof grease, still doing fine

I'm kind of doubtful on successful results using BB30 bearings after using the Wheels Manufacturing BB. You're basically reaming the bearing bore when you're spinning the Wheels Manufacturing cups in. I don't have any experience with this though.

Kind of confusing thread.

Wheels don't make a "sleeve" to convert BB30. What they make are delrin adapters that are pressed, not "spun", into existing BB30 bearings.

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There's sometimes a buggy.
How many drivers does a buggy have?

One.

So let's just say I'm drivin' this buggy...
and if you fix your attitude you can ride along with me.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GekiIMh4ZkM

Wheels used to make an alloy pressed in sleeve that was English threaded. This is on a 2011 frameset and I installed one years ago on a friends bike. It was green Lo titled in.

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RESIDENT GRUMPY OLD MAN.

@juanmoretime: If the sleeve is sound and solid in the frame I would just leave it. Getting it out might cause more problems than it's worth. One, you would likely have to thread a bushing or old bottom bracket cup into one side of the sleeve in order to have something solid to pound against in order to break it free and release it. Two, if you do get it out, and a strong retaining compound was used (the change made is in fact meant to be a permanent change), then the grooves for the BB30 clips would likely be gunked up with retaining compound as well and prove quite difficult to clean up. Third... I'm not sure why you want to change it out in the first place. The only reason you mention is because you think a BB30 system might be "lighter". Hmmm... with the current install... it is threaded, standard English thread I presume. You're thinking of changing out the crank anyway if I've read correctly... so if the sleeve is sound, I would just either stick with the GXP stuff or remove it and install any crank/BB of your choice, just not BB30.

Also, I read about your battle you're going through. Sounds like if anyone can beat it, you can.

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Colnago C60 - PR99
C59 Five Years Later
My Special Colnago EPQ
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+1 on that. My CAAD was built on a second-hand frame with an alloy press in converter fitted with loctite. Removing the converter was an absolute nightmare. Two or three local mechanics knocked the job back out of hand. I ended up cutting it through with a hacksaw, then pressing it out with a bottle jack tack-welded into a vice, with an electric heat-gun applied to the shell to break down the loctite, and the whole time being prepared to write it off as a bad job (Irish engineering mantra). This was after trying all the alleged correct tools for the job. Picking the circlip grooves clear was a day's work in itself. In fairness, the result was great, but it was a job I wouldn't wish on my worst enemy.

If Wheels did indeed ever make a sleeve adapter, I stand corrected. Google shows no record of such a thing. I see FSA, SRAM and NN BSA adapters, but no Wheels.

That being said, if OP has a pressed in BSA adapter, I'd leave it in place.

_________________
There's sometimes a buggy.
How many drivers does a buggy have?

One.

So let's just say I'm drivin' this buggy...
and if you fix your attitude you can ride along with me.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GekiIMh4ZkM

I know this is always controversial, but all my experiments have shown to me that it is not the BB30, per se, that is the problem, but the prior generation of cranks that used wave washers to supply the lateral preload.
On my own BB30, for which I have previously described my own struggles when using a SRAM Force crank (with wave washer).
All problems have disappeared and never returned as soon as I abandoned the wave washer installation method.

Initially, I used the "precise shim" method to eliminate the wave washer. That worked.
Then, I rode with a SRAM GXP crank with the Wheels Mfg delrin spacers for about a year. That worked fine.
Then I switched to SRAM Red, with the "preload nut". That has also worked fine.

BB30 (IMO) is OK if you have a rigid side-side preload system (not wave washer).

After some research I guess that I can admit part of the aging process s being very positive about something that is not correct. The sleep I previously pressed in was a FSA but I have never tried to remove it.

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RESIDENT GRUMPY OLD MAN.

I would stick with what you have. You may get more problems trying to get it out.

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