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PostPosted: Tue Nov 01, 2016 2:39 pm 
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Posts: 642
Before I get flamed for not using the "search" feature, I figure that I should thrown in a pre-disclaimer that I did but didn't get the answer that I was looking for.

I'm in the midst of building up a C60 with a clavicula classic crank. I have already bought and pressed in the cups, added the spacer to the drive side and tightened on the non-drive side arm.

My dilemma lies in the fact that when I tighten the pre-load cap onto the drive side, it compresses the crank to a degree that I get no ability to hand-turn the crank as its gets fully seized. Also, it appears as though the inner part of the spider gets dangerously close to rubbing the outer edges of colnago's Threadfit82.5.

I'm sure the argument can be suggested for me to add spacers to driveside crankshaft or even allow a little play in the shaft but it would seem too half-assed that THM design a faulty bb cup begin with.

Which leads me to the idea and self-fingerpointing that I've done something wrong. I'd like some suggestions from anybody who has built a C60 with a set of clavicula's.

Please chime in to tell me where I might have goofed things up.

1) Press in THMs pressfit Shimano cups into Colnago's ThreadFit82.5 (cplt)
2) Pass spacer through crankshaft into drive-side of the crank (cplt)
3) Insert crank into frame and safely tap/hammer crank so crank rests flush with frame with no gaps btw driveside crank and BB cup (cplt)
4) Insert non-drive crank-arm into star-lock (cplt)
5) Screw preload cap and tighten allowing crank compression (cplt)
6) Tighten both no-drive crank-arm securing bolts (cplt)

This should have successfully installed the crank...but something is terribly wrong.

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 01, 2016 3:24 pm 
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Joined: Tue Sep 11, 2007 4:20 pm
Posts: 714
Location: Tokyo
@jimaizumi

I would suggest try sending an email to THM and ask for their advice.
Note that if the BB installation is correct, the preload cap only needs 0.3 to 1Nm of torque.


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Posted: Tue Nov 01, 2016 3:24 pm 


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 03, 2017 3:57 pm 
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Joined: Wed Feb 08, 2017 6:16 pm
Posts: 14
Was there a resolution to this? I'm getting a similar problem and THM has not been responsive.

jimaizumi wrote:
Before I get flamed for not using the "search" feature, I figure that I should thrown in a pre-disclaimer that I did but didn't get the answer that I was looking for.

I'm in the midst of building up a C60 with a clavicula classic crank. I have already bought and pressed in the cups, added the spacer to the drive side and tightened on the non-drive side arm.

My dilemma lies in the fact that when I tighten the pre-load cap onto the drive side, it compresses the crank to a degree that I get no ability to hand-turn the crank as its gets fully seized. Also, it appears as though the inner part of the spider gets dangerously close to rubbing the outer edges of colnago's Threadfit82.5.

I'm sure the argument can be suggested for me to add spacers to driveside crankshaft or even allow a little play in the shaft but it would seem too half-assed that THM design a faulty bb cup begin with.

Which leads me to the idea and self-fingerpointing that I've done something wrong. I'd like some suggestions from anybody who has built a C60 with a set of clavicula's.

Please chime in to tell me where I might have goofed things up.

1) Press in THMs pressfit Shimano cups into Colnago's ThreadFit82.5 (cplt)
2) Pass spacer through crankshaft into drive-side of the crank (cplt)
3) Insert crank into frame and safely tap/hammer crank so crank rests flush with frame with no gaps btw driveside crank and BB cup (cplt)
4) Insert non-drive crank-arm into star-lock (cplt)
5) Screw preload cap and tighten allowing crank compression (cplt)
6) Tighten both no-drive crank-arm securing bolts (cplt)

This should have successfully installed the crank...but something is terribly wrong.


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 03, 2017 8:51 pm 
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Joined: Thu Dec 09, 2004 5:51 pm
Posts: 190
I have a Clavicula classic installed in a V1-r thread fit bottom bracket that should be identical to a C-60. I just took it apart this last weekend as I'm going to sell the V1-r (if anyone interested 50sl ) and get a V2-r. I pressed in the bearings into the cups with a wheels manufacturing press and then pushed the drive side spindle through the bearings (make sure inside of bearings and bonded THM race are greased. If bearings are not pushed in square into the cups that could cause binding. You do not use a spacer on drive side or non drive side. I tighten preload cap till I get a little drag and then back off, tighten cinch bolt. I'm just throwing this out there if it is smooth but a fair amount of drag it is probably just the new bearings as the 41 x30 have 2 rows and quite a bit of drag till the grease works through.


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