Play on Campagnolo Ultra Torque chainset

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Calnago
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by Calnago

The only advantage there is to installing it before you put the NDS crank on is so you don't push the crank out and it drops onto the floor.
It's easier to put the clip in after for two reasons:
1) with the nds crank on, the whole thing is balanced and it becomes very easy to move the drive side crank to whatever position you want, and have it stay there, while you access the retaining clip. The actual position of the two holes can end up anywhere around the circumference and a crank that is just hanging there annoyingly in the way just makes it more frustrating getting the clip in its holes.
2) When you torque the crank together it draws both halves in tight and both bearings are firmly against the cups. There is no chance that the DS bearing can be just outboard enough to be partially blocking the clip hole.
Just little things you learn while doing it enough times.
Colnago C64 - The Naked Build; Colnago C60 - PR99; Trek Koppenberg - Where Emonda and Domane Meet;
Unlinked Builds (searchable): Colnago C59 - 5 Years Later; Trek Emonda SL Campagnolo SR; Special Colnago EPQ

icenutter
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by icenutter

Here's what I've found when I took the cranks off. As previously suspected, the wavy washer and circlip were missing.

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icenutter
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by icenutter

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corky
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by corky

It's a great setup when installed correctly

icenutter
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Location: Newcastle, UK

by icenutter

It turns out that the drive side bearing circlip was there. But with the addition of the wavy washer and the safety clip I'm all sorted.

wilwil
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Joined: Thu Sep 23, 2010 5:47 pm

by wilwil

Looks like a lot of unnecessary grease for ceramic bearings. You only need oil or very thin grease. Some may even remove the inner cup seals with ceramic bearings to create less drag.

I cant see what difference it makes what stage the C clip is installed. I guess installing before the NDS crank gives something firmer to push against when trying to get the Hirsh joint teeth to meet up against the springy wavy washer.

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Calnago
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by Calnago

It makes no difference what stage the C-clip is installed, I think most people would install it at the end. The crank bolt will engage the threads of the left crank without much effort at all, and then tightening it will pull the whole thing together. The C-clip can then be inserted and you can be assured the clip ends will clear the bearing race since it is all torqued down. There is actually about 0.2-0.25mm of clearance between the drive side bearing and the c-clip when it's all "buttoned up". Its purpose is to prevent no more than that amount of lateral play in the system, the wavy washer on the non drive side is what provides the preload and keeps the drive side bearing against the inner face of the BB cups. You should actually be able push laterally against the non-drive side crank and be able see a bit of movement as the wavy washer gets compressed. In actual riding that lateral movement is hard to produce due to the mostly non-lateral forces on the crank. If the cups or bearings get worn, that is when you can get excessive movement between the bearings and cups and either creaking or a "click" as the drive side bearing hits the c-clip ends during lateral movement.
Colnago C64 - The Naked Build; Colnago C60 - PR99; Trek Koppenberg - Where Emonda and Domane Meet;
Unlinked Builds (searchable): Colnago C59 - 5 Years Later; Trek Emonda SL Campagnolo SR; Special Colnago EPQ

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