Specialized S-works road crankset (2017) weight
Moderator: robbosmans
Are the 2017 models still only BB30 compatible? I read somewhere that they changed the axle design, but don't know if this also means greater compatibility beyond BB30. I'd be interested in picking one up if they made it work with BB386
Specialized Tarmac Sworks SL6, Moots Compact, Carl Strong Titanium
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eric01 wrote:Are the 2017 models still only BB30 compatible? I read somewhere that they changed the axle design, but don't know if this also means greater compatibility beyond BB30. I'd be interested in picking one up if they made it work with BB386
I think it is still the same axle length.
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rcb78 wrote:Just got mine in today. Weight without chainrings and a 110bcd Quarq is 498gr with included spacer and preload adjuster. The carbon spider it came with (that was not used) was 56gr and the Quarq Spider by itself w/battery installed was 143gr.
Thank you for this info! My Quarq (130bcd) is still on the road.
Attn Cyclespeed - sorry, but the board won't let me respond to your PM. I'm holding onto the spider just in case i ever have an issue with my Quarq where i need to send it in for service. Good luck tracking one down. Btw, the profile of the arms on the new cranks is noticeably different, so while the interface is the same and it would fit, i don't think a 'new' spider will look right on the older style crank with the hirth joint since the spider is sculpted to match the arms. Probably why Spec is selling them as a complete set now.
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rcb78 wrote:Attn Cyclespeed - sorry, but the board won't let me respond to your PM. I'm holding onto the spider just in case i ever have an issue with my Quarq where i need to send it in for service. Good luck tracking one down. Btw, the profile of the arms on the new cranks is noticeably different, so while the interface is the same and it would fit, i don't think a 'new' spider will look right on the older style crank with the hirth joint since the spider is sculpted to match the arms. Probably why Spec is selling them as a complete set now.
OK thanks for that, no problem!
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SimonDC wrote:Question: How do I remove this crank from my bike?
Do you just have to use 1 single allen key on the drive side of the crank?
Many thanks!
Here you go;
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d3l2jY6yi-8
cyclespeed wrote:SimonDC wrote:Question: How do I remove this crank from my bike?
Do you just have to use 1 single allen key on the drive side of the crank?
Many thanks!
Here you go;
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d3l2jY6yi-8
This video is not how to remove the new 2017 crank. I don't know but I can't get it off... And don't want to damage the crank...
Anyone did it himself already?
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On my 2017 cranks you just unscrew the single bolt holding the drive side crankarm to the axle. Because of the design of the bolt it should self extract the arm from the tapered spindle. Mine does at least. I know the torque on the bolt is pretty high, like 40nm or something off the top of my head so if it was installed per the instructions you will need a decent sized Allen wrench or a ratchet with the Allen bit on it to get enough torque to remove it.
It's actually 45nm here is a picture of the instructions that pertain to that bolt.
It's actually 45nm here is a picture of the instructions that pertain to that bolt.
Does anyone know why did they ditch the Hirth coupling interface? I'm looking at previous versions of this crankset for my disc ViAS, because they don't make arms in different lengths than 170/172.5/175mm anymore and I'm not sure if the older ones will work hold just fine.
SpecializedColnago wrote:On my 2017 cranks you just unscrew the single bolt holding the drive side crankarm to the axle. Because of the design of the bolt it should self extract the arm from the tapered spindle. Mine does at least. I know the torque on the bolt is pretty high, like 40nm or something off the top of my head so if it was installed per the instructions you will need a decent sized Allen wrench or a ratchet with the Allen bit on it to get enough torque to remove it.
It's actually 45nm here is a picture of the instructions that pertain to that bolt.
Many Thanks! A lot of torque was needed, but it's ok now!
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Anybody else having problems striping the threads of the S-Works chainring bolts? I had 2 pop yesterday with a torque wrench that is calibrated and set to the recommended torque of 9.8 Nm. The other 3 tightened down to spec with no issue.
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