Typical beginner's question (Roubaix 2016)
Moderator: robbosmans
Hi guys,
I recently got a 2016 SL4 Roubaix, taking advantage of end of season nice discounts, and it's the Tiagra 10 speed Version.
The bike is awesome, but slightly heavy, at around 9kg.
What would you change without breaking the bank, to lose some weight?
Thanks for your ideas.
Here is the bike:
http://www.559bikes.com/m1b0s375p425/SP ... x-SL4-2016
I recently got a 2016 SL4 Roubaix, taking advantage of end of season nice discounts, and it's the Tiagra 10 speed Version.
The bike is awesome, but slightly heavy, at around 9kg.
What would you change without breaking the bank, to lose some weight?
Thanks for your ideas.
Here is the bike:
http://www.559bikes.com/m1b0s375p425/SP ... x-SL4-2016
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Easy savings :
1. Your adjustable specialized comp multi stem weights 188g thereabouts. Once u have made ur adjustments and finalised ur stem angle (degree) , you can save some money n weight by getting a kalloy uno alu stem off ebay, about 20 usd. Weight would be about 100g for 90mm length.
2. Brakes : specialized own brand axis 1.0 front n rear. Easy savings to be made too.
3. Wheels: specialized Axis 1.0 house brand wheels. This weights about 1.9-2.0kg (without tyres n skewers). Almost any aftermarket clincher wheels gets u to a lighter weight. How about campagnolo scirocco / zonda?
4. Skewers : stock 130g thereabouts. Kcnc ti skewers sub 65g.
5. Saddles - a lot of options that are sub 200g. Suggest getting some used saddles to try first. Eg selle italia slr titanium rails - 160g. Carbon rails - 120g.
Sent from my SM-G920I using Tapatalk
1. Your adjustable specialized comp multi stem weights 188g thereabouts. Once u have made ur adjustments and finalised ur stem angle (degree) , you can save some money n weight by getting a kalloy uno alu stem off ebay, about 20 usd. Weight would be about 100g for 90mm length.
2. Brakes : specialized own brand axis 1.0 front n rear. Easy savings to be made too.
3. Wheels: specialized Axis 1.0 house brand wheels. This weights about 1.9-2.0kg (without tyres n skewers). Almost any aftermarket clincher wheels gets u to a lighter weight. How about campagnolo scirocco / zonda?
4. Skewers : stock 130g thereabouts. Kcnc ti skewers sub 65g.
5. Saddles - a lot of options that are sub 200g. Suggest getting some used saddles to try first. Eg selle italia slr titanium rails - 160g. Carbon rails - 120g.
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You've got a great bike. Ride it!
For non bank breaking weight savers though start with rubber. Maybe some GP4K S2 tires and race light or supersonic tubes.
Next look to Kalloy Uno stems on eBay. Consider a light eBay carbon seatpost too, though you've got the fancy cgr one so you may not want to touch it.
Seriously though, ride the shit out of that bike until you feel like breaking the bank.
Sent from my Oneplus One using Tapatalk
For non bank breaking weight savers though start with rubber. Maybe some GP4K S2 tires and race light or supersonic tubes.
Next look to Kalloy Uno stems on eBay. Consider a light eBay carbon seatpost too, though you've got the fancy cgr one so you may not want to touch it.
Seriously though, ride the shit out of that bike until you feel like breaking the bank.
Sent from my Oneplus One using Tapatalk
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- Posts: 1163
- Joined: Sun May 16, 2010 7:28 pm
Welcome to the rabbit hole that is weight weenies. There are lots of weighs to drop the weight of a bike, and most cases, none are more valuable than others. $15 to get ultra light latex tubes and $30 for ti skewers can be as big of a weight reduction as spending $1000 for the "high modulus" version of the frame.
As others have stated, making purchases that will transfer to other bikes later on (wheels, cockpit, saddle, etc) are the smartest way to go as you only "buy once." I'm also a strong believer of spending more money on fewer highest end components (especially if you can get it half off second-hand) rather than incremental upgrades to a whole groupset. That way if you keep lightening the bike down the road you're not "re-upgrading" the same components and taking a cost penalty multiple times. For example, used 10-speed Sram red is readily available at reasonable prices, so you could do just the shifters and derailleurs and keep everything else the same, as opposed to spending more money going to full 105, then ultegra, and then eventually dura ace. Down the road you could swap the crank, brakes, wheels, etc piece by piece.
Get a kitchen scale. Start measuring random components for fun and catalog them to get a feel for what where the grams are going. Your mates will make fun of you, but will secretly envy your equipment.
As others have stated, making purchases that will transfer to other bikes later on (wheels, cockpit, saddle, etc) are the smartest way to go as you only "buy once." I'm also a strong believer of spending more money on fewer highest end components (especially if you can get it half off second-hand) rather than incremental upgrades to a whole groupset. That way if you keep lightening the bike down the road you're not "re-upgrading" the same components and taking a cost penalty multiple times. For example, used 10-speed Sram red is readily available at reasonable prices, so you could do just the shifters and derailleurs and keep everything else the same, as opposed to spending more money going to full 105, then ultegra, and then eventually dura ace. Down the road you could swap the crank, brakes, wheels, etc piece by piece.
Get a kitchen scale. Start measuring random components for fun and catalog them to get a feel for what where the grams are going. Your mates will make fun of you, but will secretly envy your equipment.
Hi guys, thanks for your ideas,
I weighted some components:
Axis 1 front brake, complete with pads + screws - 180g (this is not too much, is it? 360 for 2... Ultegra weight around 335g...)
Front wheel complete with tire - 1200g Continental Ultra Sport are mounted, 23C, weight is about 240g
Pair of skewers - 120g
Seat (Specialized Toupe Sport) - 280g
Tubes weight 93g (complete), how much do lightweight tubes weight?
I weighted some components:
Axis 1 front brake, complete with pads + screws - 180g (this is not too much, is it? 360 for 2... Ultegra weight around 335g...)
Front wheel complete with tire - 1200g Continental Ultra Sport are mounted, 23C, weight is about 240g
Pair of skewers - 120g
Seat (Specialized Toupe Sport) - 280g
Tubes weight 93g (complete), how much do lightweight tubes weight?
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- Posts: 1163
- Joined: Sun May 16, 2010 7:28 pm
Here's some numbers for reference:
wicked light brakes will be around 200g for the pair, dura ace is somewhere between 230-250, ultegra 6800 is about 330
Lightest possible aluminum clinchers will be around 1200g, mid-range ksyriums are around 1500g, most stock wheelsets are around 1700-1800 (all without tires and tubes)
Ultra light skewers are around 45g
Super light all-carbon saddles weigh around 100g or so, more modest ones are around 150-180
Lightest possible tubes (maxxis fly weight, bontrager xxx, latex) are about 50g per tube
I'd weigh the handlebars and seatpost next, I'm willing to bet you'll be surprised.
wicked light brakes will be around 200g for the pair, dura ace is somewhere between 230-250, ultegra 6800 is about 330
Lightest possible aluminum clinchers will be around 1200g, mid-range ksyriums are around 1500g, most stock wheelsets are around 1700-1800 (all without tires and tubes)
Ultra light skewers are around 45g
Super light all-carbon saddles weigh around 100g or so, more modest ones are around 150-180
Lightest possible tubes (maxxis fly weight, bontrager xxx, latex) are about 50g per tube
I'd weigh the handlebars and seatpost next, I'm willing to bet you'll be surprised.
Hi zalle,
I only changed the wheelset on my 2011 Roubaix SL2 Elite.
I swapped the stock Shimano R500 for Mavic Ksyrium Elite WTS (got them for a fair 450 Euros). It did changed the bike feeling a little but improved the overall weight and nervosity. My Roubaix is still a "comfy sofa" compared to the lightweight rigid engine around.
IMHO, the next thing (but I won't do it) I could improve without bank-magic is the drop-bars (it is taped and doesn't have any scratches so can be easily sold) and saddle (we would replace it someday anyway !).
A tire/tube study could be useful to drop weight on wheels for a small amount of money. It depends on what kind of rides & roads you plan to use it. I stick to slightly reinforced 700x25mm and regular tubes. No lightweight tubes/tires as I use it on every road and light gravel trails.
The 105 groupset is so good and top-end will cost so much for such a small gain, especially if - our cases - we keep a non high-end lightweight frame.
When I transpose my thoughts on your (very nice by the way) Roubaix - IMHO - I obtain the same changes.
Best regards,
-STK-
I only changed the wheelset on my 2011 Roubaix SL2 Elite.
I swapped the stock Shimano R500 for Mavic Ksyrium Elite WTS (got them for a fair 450 Euros). It did changed the bike feeling a little but improved the overall weight and nervosity. My Roubaix is still a "comfy sofa" compared to the lightweight rigid engine around.
IMHO, the next thing (but I won't do it) I could improve without bank-magic is the drop-bars (it is taped and doesn't have any scratches so can be easily sold) and saddle (we would replace it someday anyway !).
A tire/tube study could be useful to drop weight on wheels for a small amount of money. It depends on what kind of rides & roads you plan to use it. I stick to slightly reinforced 700x25mm and regular tubes. No lightweight tubes/tires as I use it on every road and light gravel trails.
The 105 groupset is so good and top-end will cost so much for such a small gain, especially if - our cases - we keep a non high-end lightweight frame.
When I transpose my thoughts on your (very nice by the way) Roubaix - IMHO - I obtain the same changes.
Best regards,
-STK-
i can't believe the roubaix is really 9kg. can you weigh it and post exact weight.
not a doubt in my mind that the first thing i'd do is change wheels. could easily look a whole kg there.
other stuff is distributed and in each case you might think "this much money for a 100 g?"
i like to have all the components in a spreadsheet and then examine what upgrades cost and what g/$ return i get on each upgrade.
these are the key principles i think:
- rotational weight is more important than static weight. (rims versus skewers for example)
- light tyres are cheapest weight savings out there
- wheels/tyres are everything when it comes to the ride feel (alot of guff is written about frames)
- function more important than lightest absolute weight
- lightest possible bike is a joy as is researching stuff, learning and buying. it's a great journey (but gets addictive i find)
not a doubt in my mind that the first thing i'd do is change wheels. could easily look a whole kg there.
other stuff is distributed and in each case you might think "this much money for a 100 g?"
i like to have all the components in a spreadsheet and then examine what upgrades cost and what g/$ return i get on each upgrade.
these are the key principles i think:
- rotational weight is more important than static weight. (rims versus skewers for example)
- light tyres are cheapest weight savings out there
- wheels/tyres are everything when it comes to the ride feel (alot of guff is written about frames)
- function more important than lightest absolute weight
- lightest possible bike is a joy as is researching stuff, learning and buying. it's a great journey (but gets addictive i find)
Bobo S&S Steel Bike - 7.5 kg
Oltre XR2- 6.6 kg
Look 585 - 6.8 kg
Look 695 SR
Oltre XR2- 6.6 kg
Look 585 - 6.8 kg
Look 695 SR
Hi guys,
stk57 - your bike looks pretty cool. Mine is the Tiagra version, not the 105. Even though it looks pretty cool, and works like a dream, I guess I'm carrying some extra weight.
mrgray - I weighted it and it does weight 9kg
Would Ebay carbon wheels be a good bet? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/JUST-1220g-Ca ... 89PMY8V5Uw
My continental 23c tires are 240g, should I aim for less?
I guess my plan is changing shape... I was thinking of buying a donor bike, but I guess I'm going to buy nice parts during one year or so... Wheels, ultegra 6800 groupset, light tires, tubes and skewers, carbon handlebars/stem, seat... How much do standard handlebars weight +-?
Thanks
stk57 - your bike looks pretty cool. Mine is the Tiagra version, not the 105. Even though it looks pretty cool, and works like a dream, I guess I'm carrying some extra weight.
mrgray - I weighted it and it does weight 9kg
Would Ebay carbon wheels be a good bet? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/JUST-1220g-Ca ... 89PMY8V5Uw
My continental 23c tires are 240g, should I aim for less?
I guess my plan is changing shape... I was thinking of buying a donor bike, but I guess I'm going to buy nice parts during one year or so... Wheels, ultegra 6800 groupset, light tires, tubes and skewers, carbon handlebars/stem, seat... How much do standard handlebars weight +-?
Thanks
Thanks but now your DA-shaped crankset looks better than mine ... plus my Roubaix has also 48x36 non-Shimano rings by now in place of the stock and clean looking 50/34 Compact.
105/Tiagra are almost identical. I own a CX bike (2012 Genesis Vapour Disc) full Tiagra and it's the same derailleurs and shifters reliability and feel (even if the CX get the mud-shower treatment it performs the same. I'd say the 105 pad demand less effort and are a little smother going down on the rear and front. I have the 2011-2012 versions of the 105/Tiagra and also a 2017 on my Allez Sprint and there's not much progress done since.
I'd stick to Tiagra or upgrade just to new 105. On the aesthetics side, be aware that Ultegra/DuraAce cranksets are not full black: U are dark grey or in best years black+grey, 2017 DA has a silly black-to-grey gradient, older DA are black+grey. Unfortunately, the crankset is a greater weight saver than brifters and brakes if you want to make an Ultegra jump. Plus, crank arms get visible scratches and rubbing more than brakes and brifters. To be honest, it will be the next change on the Roubaix and I'll clear-protect them this time.
The money saved could be used on better (for a WW p.o.v., at least lighter) wheels. Wheels are a fast and easy swap compared to a groupset revamp. You'll feel the difference just cruising on the saddle, no mechanics to bribe with money (or beer). And you'll get a spare winter/work wheelset to destroy instead of used groupset that will sell for nothing.
Ride a lot your stock bike before winter, change the wheels in spring or for Christmas. And beat these cranks a lot so you can have a good and visible excuse for a new Ultegra next summer !
-STK-
105/Tiagra are almost identical. I own a CX bike (2012 Genesis Vapour Disc) full Tiagra and it's the same derailleurs and shifters reliability and feel (even if the CX get the mud-shower treatment it performs the same. I'd say the 105 pad demand less effort and are a little smother going down on the rear and front. I have the 2011-2012 versions of the 105/Tiagra and also a 2017 on my Allez Sprint and there's not much progress done since.
I'd stick to Tiagra or upgrade just to new 105. On the aesthetics side, be aware that Ultegra/DuraAce cranksets are not full black: U are dark grey or in best years black+grey, 2017 DA has a silly black-to-grey gradient, older DA are black+grey. Unfortunately, the crankset is a greater weight saver than brifters and brakes if you want to make an Ultegra jump. Plus, crank arms get visible scratches and rubbing more than brakes and brifters. To be honest, it will be the next change on the Roubaix and I'll clear-protect them this time.
The money saved could be used on better (for a WW p.o.v., at least lighter) wheels. Wheels are a fast and easy swap compared to a groupset revamp. You'll feel the difference just cruising on the saddle, no mechanics to bribe with money (or beer). And you'll get a spare winter/work wheelset to destroy instead of used groupset that will sell for nothing.
Ride a lot your stock bike before winter, change the wheels in spring or for Christmas. And beat these cranks a lot so you can have a good and visible excuse for a new Ultegra next summer !
-STK-
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