Canyon Ultimate SLX 2016 DA Mechanical Drivetrain Noisy
Moderator: robbosmans
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I've just posted another video with a branded new Ultegra 6800 cassette for comparison. It's even noisier, but interestingly It's quieter in the small front ring https://youtu.be/If6ZFOFB8Xc
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I know Shimano spec to tighten the lock ring up to a Maximum torque setting of 40nm but you don't need that amount of torque on the lock ring. There's no play in the cassette and excessive torque on the lock ring can easily strip the thread as its not that robust.
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probertsqbe wrote:I've just posted another video with a branded new Ultegra 6800 cassette for comparison. It's even noisier, but interestingly It's quieter in the small front ring https://youtu.be/If6ZFOFB8Xc
I've just replaced the gear cable for the rear derailleur to see if that would help. It might just have done the trick for me.
I used a Jagwire Pro Shift Cable (Teflon coated, slick galvanised). Removed the plastic cover underneath the bottom bracket during installation, after slacking off the front derailleur cable. This was to ensure the cables weren't interfering and I also left in place a small length of the plastic liner tubing in the area where the cable would otherwise be in contact with the plastic. This seems to have helped with shifting and has reduced the amount of noise.
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@slashdotdash thanks for the tip on the updated cable. I just read your build notes on the original cabling and total agree that the cable routing on these frames may look great but is a PITA to do. I kept the original lining for future cable replacement. I'm thinking about trying wax on the chain next as a first step to reduce the noise. Let's us know how you get on with your noise once you've got a few hundred miles on this cable set.
I also have this exact same problem! It's been driving me mad for a year now. (Just discovered this thread)
I also have a 2016 Ultimate CF SLX (also in a size Small) that I built up myself.
Tried all kinds of things, replaced wheels, derailleur, mech hanger, cables, cassette. (Running mechanical Ultegra but with a Quarq chainset with Dura Ace 52/Ultegra 36)
The noise gets worse with wear. I've found a Sram chain is quietest (but only for around 1500km) - The weird thing is that if you test the chain for wear with a tool it shows as ok, but the sideways wear (if that makes sense!) is really bad (as if its been cross chained continuously, which its isn't)
This must be a Canyon problem, just no idea whats causing it.
I also have a 2016 Ultimate CF SLX (also in a size Small) that I built up myself.
Tried all kinds of things, replaced wheels, derailleur, mech hanger, cables, cassette. (Running mechanical Ultegra but with a Quarq chainset with Dura Ace 52/Ultegra 36)
The noise gets worse with wear. I've found a Sram chain is quietest (but only for around 1500km) - The weird thing is that if you test the chain for wear with a tool it shows as ok, but the sideways wear (if that makes sense!) is really bad (as if its been cross chained continuously, which its isn't)
This must be a Canyon problem, just no idea whats causing it.
Boardman wrote:11 speed Shimano is just plain noisy both Ultegra and 105.
One of the guys I ride with has DA9000 on his new bike and I observed how noisy that was. I was quite disappointed!
The only thing I have found consistently to quiet down my 11 speed drivetrains is to use wax on the chain. This involves stripping every and I mean every bit of lube from the chain with white spirit and once dry apply Squirt dry lube. I apply twice and when dry use a hot air gun to warm up the lube again so it runs via capillary action into all the hard to reach parts of the chain.
I have tried dunking the stripped chain in paraffin wax, but have found this method not as efficient as the Squirt lube method.
You can then just top up the Squirt by applying to the chain as normal.
My experience of 11 speed Shimano (DA and 105) is similar - it's noisy. Why I don't know. 9 speed was superbly quiet ... and tbh I'd rather have quiet than two additional gears!
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Couple of ideas...is the chain on correctly (logos facing outward)? The chains don't work if the logos face inward. B-tension screw adjusted? I've always had more problems with this in the higher gears than the lower gears (on my road bike...mtn bike the other way around it seems).