Dedicated Winter Bike

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chipomarc
Posts: 132
Joined: Mon Sep 19, 2011 4:56 pm

by chipomarc

RussellS wrote:What do you mean by "winter" bike? Based on your description of your ideal bike, I am guessing we are at very opposite ends of the scales. You seem to think a "winter" bike is a bike you use when its maybe not sunny and above 80 degrees. Oh my!!!! To me "winter" means snow and ice and temperatures below freezing. Very different bikes required. In winter I use an old 1970s single speed with 35mm studded tires and a couple of those plastic add on fenders. Cantilever brake on the front only. It gets me from point A to point B when required. Your "winter" seems like a cool summer day to me.


One doesn't go out on the bike in snow/ice conditions.
You simply can't train or get quality miles in that way.
That is why you have to follow a clear training program and have a good turbo trainer for indoor.

Stueys
Posts: 673
Joined: Sat Nov 22, 2014 1:12 pm

by Stueys

chipomarc wrote:
RussellS wrote:What do you mean by "winter" bike? Based on your description of your ideal bike, I am guessing we are at very opposite ends of the scales. You seem to think a "winter" bike is a bike you use when its maybe not sunny and above 80 degrees. Oh my!!!! To me "winter" means snow and ice and temperatures below freezing. Very different bikes required. In winter I use an old 1970s single speed with 35mm studded tires and a couple of those plastic add on fenders. Cantilever brake on the front only. It gets me from point A to point B when required. Your "winter" seems like a cool summer day to me.


One doesn't go out on the bike in snow/ice conditions.
You simply can't train or get quality miles in that way.
That is why you have to follow a clear training program and have a good turbo trainer for indoor.


This. Riding when it's icy is a great way to come off and spend 6 weeks not riding anything....

I run a caadx with discs and full guards for winter/wet riding. Slightly heavy but on 28cc tyres it's a comfy place to be. Once the temp drops down to freezing or below freezing overnight then its trainerroad or a zwift race on a smart turbo.

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mattr
Posts: 4671
Joined: Fri May 25, 2007 6:43 pm
Location: The Grim North.

by mattr

Funny. I used to get out and do a couple of hours on a local loop that gets ploughed. Or at least, they take the snow off the top. Steady away for most of it if it's really cold (-10 ish) but even then there's a couple or three stiff climbs. Made stiffer by a 15 kilo mtb with 2 kilos of tyre.....

If it's warmer i might even have put in a few efforts.

Anything rather than riding indoors.

bontie
Posts: 166
Joined: Fri Feb 18, 2011 8:33 am

by bontie

Image

Fits full mudguards, has discs and has a short headtube.

www.engineeredbikes.com

MikeyBE
Posts: 245
Joined: Wed Jul 30, 2014 6:59 pm

by MikeyBE

You run Record on your winter bike...?

Sent from my 6039Y using Tapatalk

cmcdonnell
Posts: 278
Joined: Sun Aug 02, 2015 7:50 pm

by cmcdonnell

bontie wrote:Image

Fits full mudguards, has discs and has a short headtube.

http://www.engineeredbikes.com


That's a nice bike. Which model is it and was that an off the peg build? I've run chorus or record in the winter and see no reason why not. My current winter bike has chorus on from 2004, it's done >60K miles and I've barely touched anything.
Bianchi Oltre XR2 + Campagnolo Super Record 11 + Campagnolo Bora 50C
Litespeed T1 + Campagnolo Chorus 11 + Campagnolo Shamal Ultra

Multebear
Posts: 1395
Joined: Sat May 02, 2015 10:11 pm

by Multebear

markgoldstein wrote:
So far, I'm thinking that these are must-haves:

- disc brakes, preferably full hydraulic
- mudguard mounts
- rack mounts
- clearance for at least 28mm tyres with mudguards fitted



We do a lot of winthertraining here in Scandinavia, and I have a perfect winterbike for that. And I must say, all your 4 points IMHO are wrong.

Any summerbike kan be changed to be a winterbike. Discs aren't a must have. They definitely make some things easier. But not a musthave. Just buy some cheap wheels like Shimano RS11, and clean your brakepads and rims after each ride, then you'll be fine.

Regarding mudguards, just buy more than one set mudguards, don't attach them under the brakes. Brake them up so that they are attached before and after the brakes. It takes som work drilling new holes in the mudguards, but on the other hand, you need to have them long enough to not bother other riders anyway, which means, that you have to work on them anyway.

Image[/quote]

Multebear
Posts: 1395
Joined: Sat May 02, 2015 10:11 pm

by Multebear

My Caad 10, with mudguards front:

Image
Last edited by Multebear on Thu Nov 24, 2016 9:18 am, edited 1 time in total.

liam7020
Posts: 1263
Joined: Tue Jul 27, 2010 10:04 am

by liam7020

Just thinking that if I don't keel over between now and the end of October this will be 40th year of training through winter in the British Isles... I must need my head examined!! Anyhow, agree with Multebear - no need for discs, fender/rack mounts or 28mm tyres. Any bike with a decent set of mudguards and dependable tyres will be more than sufficient, current setup includes Crud Catchers Racer and Vittoria Pave 25mm. If the weather gets too dodgy ie ice, snow etc, then head off road or, as a last resort, dig out the turbo.
Tarmac SL6 & Campag Record EPS https://weightweenies.starbike.com/foru ... 0&t=153968

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slashdotdash
Posts: 21
Joined: Thu Apr 09, 2015 9:17 am

by slashdotdash

markgoldstein wrote:- disc brakes, preferably full hydraulic
- mudguard mounts
- rack mounts
- clearance for at least 28mm tyres with mudguards fitted

The Rose TEAM DX CROSS AR fits all of your criteria.

- Shimano hydraulic disc brakes (105 or Ultegra).
- Full length mudguard and rack mounts.
- Clearance for 42mm tyres with mudguards fitted.
- 6066 Aluminium, triple-butted frameset (1390g), carbon fork.
- Choice of DT Swiss R23 or R32 Spline Disc tubeless wheelset.

I have the TEAM DX CROSS 3000 variant for commuting and winter riding. I'm in the UK so relatively mild/wet winters. I don't ride if the temperature is near freezing. I don't think it's worth the risk of slipping on ice, having been caught out with a slow speed off this year.

Have ridden this bike 2,300 miles so far and happy enough. Great spec for the price, comfortable to ride and quick enough on the road. Hydraulic disc brakes are superb, especially in the wet. Require absolutely no maintenance outside of pad replacement. I'm desperate to get a race bike with disc brakes once the UCI allows them. I've fitted a pair of tubeless 35mm Shwalbe G-One gravel tyres. Combined with Orange Seal sealant to reduce, hopefully eliminate, punctures. This allows me to enjoy some off road routes, across fields and briddleways, on the commute to avoid traffic and add variety.

The out-of-the box weight without pedals was 8.74Kg. In commuter setup with full length mudguards fitted it weighs 9.63Kg.

Only problem I've had is that I managed to cross thread the rear thru-axle. Tried to drill out and fix with a Helicoil repair kit but that didn't work out. Now I just use a large nut and bolt.

Here's a review by Bike Radar: "Ignore the 'Cross' in the name – this value-packed Rose is a great modern take on a tourer. Buy if: You want all the fittings for full-on touring, wrapped in a modern all-road machine that’s fun to ride" .
Last edited by slashdotdash on Wed Aug 17, 2016 3:21 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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wheelsONfire
Posts: 6283
Joined: Mon Jul 07, 2014 8:15 am
Location: NorthEU

by wheelsONfire

markgoldstein wrote:After years of using a summer bike with SKS Raceblades or Crudguards fitted, I'm contemplating adding a "proper" winter bike to the stable. So far, I'm thinking that these are must-haves:

- disc brakes, preferably full hydraulic
- mudguard mounts
- rack mounts
- clearance for at least 28mm tyres with mudguards fitted

I'm not too fussed about frame material - it seems to be a choice between cheaper alloy and more expensive steel if you want full mounts. I am struggling to find something with similar geometry to my summer bike (Cannondale Supersix) - most of the manufacturers seem to assume that winter = an armchair ride...

So any suggestions that meet the above criteria? I'm also curious as to what kind of bike everyone else uses once Autumn is upon us again...


I must ask, 28mm tires for winter?

I bought my UP to be able to ride in any weather.
But i would seriously buy 650B wheelset and ride 50-55mm studded if it was ice and snow.

I have also been feeling i am not sure a dropbar bike is ideal for that climate.
If i could, i would probably build a 1*11, straight bar bike with 650B tires (55mm studdes) for real winter.
However, it still would pend on the degrees outside if i came out.

I really ride 40mm tires now on gravel roads.
I can't imagine anything more narrow, i even think 40mm would be too narrow for winter.
Bikes:

Ax Lightness Vial EVO Race (2019.01.03)
Open *UP* (2016.04.14)
Paduano Racing Fidia (kind of shelved)


Ex bike; Vial EVO D, Vial EVO Ultra, Scott Foil, Paduano ti bike.

Multebear
Posts: 1395
Joined: Sat May 02, 2015 10:11 pm

by Multebear

I ride 23 or 25 mm tires during winter, like I do during summer. The roads are the same, there are just more wet days. Why would anyone ride 28 mm or more because of winter?

If the tarmac is icy, then don't ride it at all. Ride the woods or the home trainer.

Shrike
Posts: 2019
Joined: Fri Jun 03, 2016 5:08 pm

by Shrike

When you guys talk about going real wide, ie. 40mm etc, is it because of snowy and icy conditions in your area?

cmcdonnell
Posts: 278
Joined: Sun Aug 02, 2015 7:50 pm

by cmcdonnell

Multebear wrote:I ride 23 or 25 mm tires during winter, like I do during summer. The roads are the same, there are just more wet days. Why would anyone ride 28 mm or more because of winter?

If the tarmac is icy, then don't ride it at all. Ride the woods or the home trainer.


Yeah I can't quite get this wide tyre thing but I suppose it depends on terrain. In the southern UK we rarely get icy roads for more than the odd day here and there and I've always been happy on 23 mm's, put some 25 mm's on last winter and they are fine but no revelation. I do think weight is an issue maybe. I'm not heavy and have never found 23 mm tyres uncomfortable so don't seek more comfort or lower pressures just like I don't want a more upright riding position for "comfort"
Bianchi Oltre XR2 + Campagnolo Super Record 11 + Campagnolo Bora 50C
Litespeed T1 + Campagnolo Chorus 11 + Campagnolo Shamal Ultra

mattr
Posts: 4671
Joined: Fri May 25, 2007 6:43 pm
Location: The Grim North.

by mattr

I've found that 28s give you a little more margin for error on shitty broken tarmac. Especially when it's dark or you have more puddles than usual.

by Weenie


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