SRAM Etap. Six months in, how you getting on?

[Mockenrue]

If you have to press both levers at the same time to shift the front, how do you do this when the bike is on the work stand?

[RichTheRoadie]

With the buttons on the derailleurs.

[sugarkane]

@Sugarkane: No problems with Etap and drivetrain noise on the bigring and biggest sprockets with (BB30) Sram Etap cranksets?

Especially when a group is new cross changing is going to make a racket.. And it's SRAM if you want the Lexus factor buy Di2

[Hubert]

Is anyone running a high volume road tire w/ eTAP 30c or bigger? Any rubbing on the FR battery?

[perwjensen]

If you have to press both levers at the same time to shift the front, how do you do this when the bike is on the work stand?

On the FD press the little button and it will move to the other chainring. On the RD press once for outboard and twice for inboard movement ( I may have that reversed).

[sugarkane]

one for out.. one for in..

[ammasweat]

Yesterday I had also some issues with the chain dropping when shifting in the front from 34-50 when the chain is in the middle of the cassette. It goes fine but suddenly it drops because of the overshift of the FD. The FD limit screws are set ok, but I can't figure out why it happens. The drive train noise increases when the Cage is installed lower and is less when the cage is installed higher, but then the chain will drop of the big chain ring very easily and suddenly. Etap works flawless on the back, but i have issues with the Front derailleur. ;-(

Exact same problems here. I've messed about with this so much and still I'm getting the chain dropping off the outside of the big ring when shifting from small to big ring. It does seem to happen more when I'm midway up the cassette at the rear.

I've tried it with the cage absolutely within a hairs breadth of chain rub. So much so that it wouldn't upshift and so I brought it out a tiny bit so it can shift up again. Still I seem to have problems. I've tried (lots of times) micro adjusting height of the FD, and I've made tiny adjustments in and out of the FD alignment lines. I've just finished another adjusting and testing session but will have to do some miles to see if I've improved the situation at all this time round.

Did you find an answer for this?

[ChiZ01]

i have seem a inner and outer chain catcher, looks like a fork. It should stop the chain from dropping out

[gmakris]

I had a few FD issues and chain drops were caused by wrong setup. After some adjustments to the limit screws, FD cage angle and height it works flawless under any circumstances.

Some chain drop can also be caused by the chainring design. I have red cranks

[ammasweat]

I had a few FD issues and chain drops were caused by wrong setup. After some adjustments to the limit screws, FD cage angle and height it works flawless under any circumstances.

Some chain drop can also be caused by the chainring design. I have red cranks

I've got red cranks too (the specific model they recommend for red etap), red chain, and I've messed with the cage angle, height, and limit screws a LOT.

However, I discovered last night that I had the powerlink on in reverse (which I've now fixed). On the outer side (looking from the right of the bike) the arrow was pointing backwards when the powerlink part of the chain was on the high part of its travel. According to SRAM tech docs it's meant to point forwards. So, I'm now wondering, since chain drops were intermittent, if the reversed powerlink was causing problems when it got involved in a front shift. Any opinions on whether this could have been the problem?

[shonanmike]

Viewed from the right side of the bike, the protrusion on the right of the etap FD bumps into the top of the front derailleur bracket on Workswell WCB-R-066 frame. This interferes with the height adjustment of the FD. It is impossible to lower the FD to meet sram's spec of 1-2mm chain ring derailleur cage gap when running a 50 tooth compact chainring.

ASFAIK, SRAM tech doc specs 141mm from center of BB to derailleur attachment screw measured vertically.

Seems like a bit more thought during the design and testing process by SRAM could have avoided this problem.

[oldnslow2]

I've been lucky. After a few drops on the outside when I first installed eTap, it's been flawless in 3200 miles.

Mine was a mini-group so crank, chainring and cassette are from the Red 22 mechanical. The chain was a new PC Red 22 chain installed when i did the mini-group.

[DavidMLee]

I've been using eTap groupset for over a month, and this what I think.

1. Shifting is crisp and precise.
- I used Shimano's 105, Ultegra and Dura-ace.
Comparing to those mechanical groupset, eTap is a huge step forward. However, my riding buddy using 9070 says eTap has more 'mechanical' shifting feeling, which means rear derailer shifting is more distinctive than 9070.

2. Shifting logic is awesome
- Other than imitating mechanical shifting logic, eTap created its own novelty. Paddle shift is very intuituve and I now think why Shimano and Campy never thought of this system.

3. Battery time is reasonable.
- I ride 200km a week and battery time has never been an issue.
You gotta take out battery while on car or subway though, which take about 30 seconds.

[DavidMLee]

Additionally, blip switches seems to be a good option for sprinters/climbers. And upcoming updates will make eTap display its status on Garmin. Awesome!

[TarugoKing]

Additionally, blip switches seems to be a good option for sprinters/climbers. And upcoming updates will make eTap display its status on Garmin. Awesome!

If you have 520/1000, it should be available already. I'm actually considering getting the 520.

https://www.sram.com/stories/sram-red-e ... 0-and-1000

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=byKvkf2ZNyU