SRAM Red Etap Front Derailleur Adjustment

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pdlpsher1
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by pdlpsher1

Also the effectiveness of the Yaw is diminished with a short chainstay. We have a female rider in my ride group who has the eTap. And her shop could not get the shifting dialed in after countless attempts. She told everyone in the group about her bad experience with eTap, going as far as telling everyone not to buy it.


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AZR3
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by AZR3

So what chainstay length is causing these problems? I've been thinking of putting etap on my 2011 Cervelo S3 and the chainstay length is listed at 399, is that too short?

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pdlpsher1
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by pdlpsher1

AZR3 wrote:So what chainstay length is causing these problems? I've been thinking of putting etap on my 2011 Cervelo S3 and the chainstay length is listed at 399, is that too short?


Sram has published a minimum chainstay length....try Google. But I'm sure that number is not black and white. Generally shifting will be more problematic as the chainstays get shorter. So even if your chainstay is above the published minimum length it doesn't mean you'll be trouble-free.

To be fair the Shimano Di2 only provides auto trim in the small-front, small-rear combination. It doesn't provide trim on the small-front and large-rear combination. I purposely adjusted it so I have a slight chain rub on the small-big combination.....as I don't like dropped chains even with a chain catcher. I could totally eliminate the rub however I will have increased the risk of dropped chain, even on a Di2 system. The rub doesn't bother me as I rarely use the small-large cross-chain gear. The Shimano manual calls for a 0-0.5mm clearance between the inner cage and the chain while on the small-big. Even at 0.5mm clearance the chain will still rub as the chain doesn't always travel in a perfectly straight line.

AZR3
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by AZR3

I have red 10spd on my 2011 S3 and Supersix Evo Hi-Mod and the S3 has a lot more drivetrain noise than the Hi-Mod, the chainstays on the S3 are 6mm shorter so assuming it'll be just as noisy with 11spd eTap

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pdlpsher1
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by pdlpsher1

I've found the Sram minimum chainstay lengths but the number varies depending on the chainring size. The large the chainring the longer the required chainstays. See the attached on page 13.

https://www.sram.com/sites/default/files/techdocs/gen0000000005175_rev_b_frame_fit_spec_2017_road.pdf

spartan
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by spartan

etap strengths compact ergonomic brake hoods, pronounced click on shifting,
weakness front shifting, chainring flex vs shimano, brakes, shifting customization, ultegra finish quality

for the same price i recommend go shimano di9150. etap only advantage is easy setup.



pdlpsher1 wrote:Also the effectiveness of the Yaw is diminished with a short chainstay. We have a female rider in my ride group who has the eTap. And her shop could not get the shifting dialed in after countless attempts. She told everyone in the group about her bad experience with eTap, going as far as telling everyone not to buy it.


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AZR3
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by AZR3

Thanks for the link pdlpsher1, looks like I'm a little shy of the recommended length, which would explain why the Hi-Mod (50/34) is quieter than the S3 (52/36)even with 10spd

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wheelbuilder
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by wheelbuilder

spartan wrote:etap strengths compact ergonomic brake hoods, pronounced click on shifting,
weakness front shifting, chainring flex vs shimano, brakes, shifting customization, ultegra finish quality

for the same price i recommend go shimano di9150. etap only advantage is easy setup.



pdlpsher1 wrote:Also the effectiveness of the Yaw is diminished with a short chainstay. We have a female rider in my ride group who has the eTap. And her shop could not get the shifting dialed in after countless attempts. She told everyone in the group about her bad experience with eTap, going as far as telling everyone not to buy it.


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You forgot no tangled mess of wires and junction boxes. Batteries can be quickly removed for convenient charging wherever you want. Not plugging a wire into a junction box still attached to your bike. I have ridden both extensively, and while I own etap. I don't disagree with most of your list. Di2 front shifting is slightly faster and stronger, and Red rings are not the stiffest. That said, there should be no experienced cyclist who finds front derailleur problems so vexxing that it becomes a problem worth mentioning. The front shifting is perfectly fine with etap if it is set up properly, and the operator makes an effort to practice good front shifting techniques. This should go without saying for any system.
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JackRussellRacing
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by JackRussellRacing

wheelbuilder wrote:You forgot no tangled mess of wires and junction boxes. Batteries can be quickly removed for convenient charging wherever you want. Not plugging a wire into a junction box still attached to your bike. I have ridden both extensively, and while I own etap. I don't disagree with most of your list. Di2 front shifting is slightly faster and stronger, and Red rings are not the stiffest. That said, there should be no experienced cyclist who finds front derailleur problems so vexxing that it becomes a problem worth mentioning. The front shifting is perfectly fine with etap if it is set up properly, and the operator makes an effort to practice good front shifting techniques. This should go without saying for any system.



I have one of each. I vastly prefer the SRAM methodology of shifting and love the clean setup. However, in my personal experience the Di2 shifts are noticeably faster both in the front, and rear derailleur compared to eTap.

schroeds
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by schroeds

I recently moved my etap from one frame to another and oh boy did I appreciate the simplicity.... bolt it on and ride off. Brilliant.

Jowwy
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by Jowwy

No front derrauiler issues on my sram etap. Using sram red crankset and chainrings on a cannondale synapse himod disc with a bb30a bottom bracket

benp
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by benp

JackRussellRacing wrote:
I have one of each. I vastly prefer the SRAM methodology of shifting and love the clean setup. However, in my personal experience the Di2 shifts are noticeably faster both in the front, and rear derailleur compared to eTap.

Absolutely agree. Love the Etap, but noticeable slower front/rear shifts. Lack of tactile feedback on my Ultegra Di2 equipment is a let down. Love the positive feedback on the Etap. Going to try Shimano cassette to see if that quickens up the rear (currently 1190 rear, will try a 6800 cassette)


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pdlpsher1
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by pdlpsher1

benp wrote:
JackRussellRacing wrote:
I have one of each. I vastly prefer the SRAM methodology of shifting and love the clean setup. However, in my personal experience the Di2 shifts are noticeably faster both in the front, and rear derailleur compared to eTap.

Absolutely agree. Love the Etap, but noticeable slower front/rear shifts. Lack of tactile feedback on my Ultegra Di2 equipment is a let down. Love the positive feedback on the Etap. Going to try Shimano cassette to see if that quickens up the rear (currently 1190 rear, will try a 6800 cassette)


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There's a video online where someone actually compared the speeds of the two systems and documented the differences. He uses slow-motion videos to record the gear change speeds. Shimano is definitely faster on all gear changes.


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dlcrep
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by dlcrep

Calnago wrote:
sugarkane wrote:I think ETap is sensitive to chain line and that can be hard to control with aftermarket BB and crank setups. All the bikes I've seen that struggle to shift up the front while going up hill all have non SRAM cranks

Well, you can't slam anything that isn't working quite right if it isn't using components that are all intended, designed and tested to work together. In my experience there's usually, but not always, compromises here and there when the mix and match "it'll work, trust me" crew starts stirring the pot. And all of the new groups are extremely sensitive to chainline these days. Case in point... Shimano moving their inner ring 0.04mm to the inside on 9100 in order to better accommodate the altered chainline of the wider spacing required for disc brakes.

I can confirm eTap worked flawlessly with my 9000 crank (BB86) and it shifts even better and more crisp with the 9100 crank (PF30+WheelsMFG). The crank arm clearance is very close but it has enough to clear. Almost looks like it was meant to be :lol:

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mdeth1313
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by mdeth1313

wheelbuilder wrote: Red rings are not the stiffest.


Have you tried Praxis rings? I'm using Etap with 52/36 buzz rings and it has been perfect.
Speedplay is the devil!

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