Chain lubricants

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BRM
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Joined: Sun Mar 16, 2014 3:43 pm

by BRM

Very funny :lol: , you really think you will feel the difference in the fastest and the second, third, fourth, fifth fastest, etc?
It's a non-argument. The difference in drag between modern lubes doesn't play any role in real life conditions.

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wheelsONfire
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Location: NorthEU

by wheelsONfire

BRM, you should test snake oil. This makes you incredible fast. You don't even need an aero bike or pose :D
Bikes:

Ax Lightness Vial EVO Race (2019.01.03)
Open *UP* (2016.04.14)
Paduano Racing Fidia (kind of shelved)


Ex bike; Vial EVO D, Vial EVO Ultra, Scott Foil, Paduano ti bike.

MikeDee
Posts: 118
Joined: Mon Dec 22, 2014 1:27 am

by MikeDee

sd5500 wrote:Molten speed wax here. Love it. Chain stays super clean.


Extremely expensive.

sd5500
Posts: 163
Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2014 3:32 pm

by sd5500

MikeDee wrote:
sd5500 wrote:Molten speed wax here. Love it. Chain stays super clean.


Extremely expensive.

$60 should easily do it For the year. Yeah, maybe expensive, but works really well and I like having clean hands and drive train. To each his own.

probertsqbe
Posts: 166
Joined: Fri Feb 22, 2013 1:27 pm

by probertsqbe

Ive just placed an order for Molten speed wax and can't wait to try it. Ever since I upgraded my bikes to 11 speed the slight increase in drivetrain noise has led me down this path. Will report back on my findings once I've tried it in a few different riding conditions.

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wheelsONfire
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by wheelsONfire

2lo8 wrote:I was talking about the friction facts type wax, where they melt wax to use as a liquid carrier for the solid lubricants, which has it's own issues, but unlike the others it doesn't rely on suspending lubricants in a evaporating, volatile solvent. Obviously you should wipe it off on not leave it all crusty with wax.

You should not get WD-40 in a chain, but if you make a paper towel just damp enough not to drip, it's very effective at removing residual lube on the outer plates. It has a very high solvent content, and a very small oil content, and the oil is simply not thick enough to serve as a chain lube, and you should be using lube with additives for plain bearings/bushings like those on chains. You can also use if for degreasing, it's better than a water based degreaser because the residual oil is not harmful, but also not better than just straight solvent, and the solvent should evaporate at room temperature, as opposed to water which can cause rust inside the chain and keep lubricant out.


You had me thinking and curious. So, i have arranged to buy Cerabike Wax Lube
(check contents in the sauce)
http://www.cerabike.com/#!wax-lube/cojv

A bit tricky to get shipped here since amazon does not agree on shipping this here.
However, i got direct contact with Juan Sanchez at Cerabike, so we made a deal.
So i will start off with one bottle of Wax lube to get an idea of what i have here.

Yes, the MUC Hydro is not bad. I use water (hose) to rinse the chain after every ride.
Some stick to pulley wheels but it comes off with water and possible with little help from a rag.

Best is that it is easy to clean and run silent.
Bikes:

Ax Lightness Vial EVO Race (2019.01.03)
Open *UP* (2016.04.14)
Paduano Racing Fidia (kind of shelved)


Ex bike; Vial EVO D, Vial EVO Ultra, Scott Foil, Paduano ti bike.

MikeDee
Posts: 118
Joined: Mon Dec 22, 2014 1:27 am

by MikeDee

I keep coming back to Squirt lube. Ez to apply, chain stays clean, lasts reasonably long, no wiping required. It doesn't penetrate the chain as well as I'd like though, which is my major complaint.

OutOfBreath
Posts: 22
Joined: Sat Jul 23, 2016 8:41 pm

by OutOfBreath

Had not luck with Squirt or Cerabike. Squirt kept building black goo on my drivetrain, specially derailleur pulleys and cerabike was short lived and not that clean either. Went back to Finishline Wet eventhough I ride mostly on dry conditions, it's readily available, relatively inexpensive and last a long time without noises. A quik whipe after every other ride and the drivetrain stays clean enough.

Haven't found anything more convenient, also tried the Teflon Dry but was messy and not that durable. Tried Motorex Wet and Dry lubes too, they worked good but made the whole drivetrain a black wet mess that would stain everything it touches, if I whiped it clean frequently reaplication became necessary more often.

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HakeemT
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by HakeemT

BRM wrote:Very funny :lol: , you really think you will feel the difference in the fastest and the second, third, fourth, fifth fastest, etc?
It's a non-argument. The difference in drag between modern lubes doesn't play any role in real life conditions.

Where did I say that I will feel the difference?

Dez33
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by Dez33

BRM wrote:Very funny :lol: , you really think you will feel the difference in the fastest and the second, third, fourth, fifth fastest, etc?
It's a non-argument. The difference in drag between modern lubes doesn't play any role in real life conditions.


1st and 2nd was about 0.2 watt. Wax v Rock n Roll.

Next three were half a watt back then there was a jump of about 1.5 watts to the next group.

Certainly not race winning but when you also factor in pulley wheels, bottom bracket, chain brand and regular chain cleaning that they also tested (FF) it added up to about 10 watts from memory. That will make a difference to an average rider on a climb.

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BRM
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by BRM

HakeemT wrote:
BRM wrote:Very funny :lol: , you really think you will feel the difference in the fastest and the second, third, fourth, fifth fastest, etc?
It's a non-argument. The difference in drag between modern lubes doesn't play any role in real life conditions.

Where did I say that I will feel the difference?


You have an interpretation problem.
I didn't reacted on you because you wrote you can feel the difference.

You wrotë:

The fact that it tests fastest of all 'easy' solutions is why I keep using it.

Means undoubtly that you give value on these tests and really think it make a difference.
Because the difference in drag between the first 5 orso in the test is so minimal in rel life conditions, makes it utter bullshit you give high value to that part. Fromon that thought I asked you if you really can feel the difference.

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BRM
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Joined: Sun Mar 16, 2014 3:43 pm

by BRM

Dez33 wrote:
BRM wrote:Very funny :lol: , you really think you will feel the difference in the fastest and the second, third, fourth, fifth fastest, etc?
It's a non-argument. The difference in drag between modern lubes doesn't play any role in real life conditions.


1st and 2nd was about 0.2 watt. Wax v Rock n Roll.

Next three were half a watt back then there was a jump of about 1.5 watts to the next group.

Certainly not race winning but when you also factor in pulley wheels, bottom bracket, chain brand and regular chain cleaning that they also tested (FF) it added up to about 10 watts from memory. That will make a difference to an average rider on a climb.


blablabla in trying to get a point
Just stick to what I wrote.
and see how stupid it is to give high value to these dragdifferences of lubes.
You need to reform your thinking.

NGtim
Posts: 30
Joined: Mon Jul 25, 2016 5:27 am

by NGtim

I've tried two products to date. 1. Rock n Roll gold and 2. Finishline dry ceramic wax.

Yet to be wowed by either. They have both done the job but not really liking the white wax residue left after application.

Heard good things about Muc-Off might give that a go next!

Hamfist
Posts: 84
Joined: Sun Feb 03, 2008 3:04 pm
Location: Bloomfield Hills, Michigan

by Hamfist

Another vote for Molten Speed Wax. To add to the ease, you can purchase a small crock pot from online for about 10 USD. Dedicate that to your wax and all you have to do is pop off the chain (I use a Whipperman master link) and drop it in. In order for the wax to truly work, you really do have to take all the assembly lube off the chain. That process can be tedious but it's worth it in the end. Follow the directions on the MSW website and you're good to go.

I have 3 bikes and each of them gets the wax treatment. On my road bike I'm seeing about 400-ish miles between waxings...I'm not sure on the MTB as I really don't ride it all that much, but i'm thinking about 250 or 300. The benefits of wax include not having to de-wax your chain between waxings. I hose mine off with water and make sure it's dry. The hot wax will simultaneously clean your chain and re-wax it. However, if you put a dirty chain in the wax it will naturally shorten the useful life of the unapplied wax.

I actually don't remove the melted wax but rather let it drip dry. You have to break each link free (which can be tough) but when you install it the extra wax will slough off. If you miss a link you'll get skipping...it will be totally obvious. Expect a bit of a mess as the extra wax sloughs off but if you have your denatured alcohol handy (from removing the assembly lube from your chain) a towel with a bit of alcohol on it will get rid of the wax really quick.

On thing with wax that I've noticed. The drivetrain is quite a bit noisier than with a wet lube.

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Cheers!
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by Cheers!

No mention of NFS (original or Silca version)?

by Weenie


Visit starbike.com Online Retailer for HighEnd cycling components
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