Chain lubricants

[Dez33]

Very funny , you really think you will feel the difference in the fastest and the second, third, fourth, fifth fastest, etc?
It's a non-argument. The difference in drag between modern lubes doesn't play any role in real life conditions.

1st and 2nd was about 0.2 watt. Wax v Rock n Roll.

Next three were half a watt back then there was a jump of about 1.5 watts to the next group.

Certainly not race winning but when you also factor in pulley wheels, bottom bracket, chain brand and regular chain cleaning that they also tested (FF) it added up to about 10 watts from memory. That will make a difference to an average rider on a climb.

blablabla in trying to get a point
Just stick to what I wrote.
and see how stupid it is to give high value to these dragdifferences of lubes.
You need to reform your thinking.

You stick to what you wrote, I will stick to what I wrote. If you aren't capable of reading and understanding more than five word sentences then don't read, simple.

And I didn't give high figures, was pretty clear about that in the post.

1st and 2nd was about 0.2 watt. Wax v Rock n Roll.

Next three were half a watt back .....

Results below if anyone wants the actual figures ..

[MikeDee]

Had not luck with Squirt or Cerabike. Squirt kept building black goo on my drivetrain, specially derailleur pulleys and cerabike was short lived and not that clean either. Went back to Finishline Wet eventhough I ride mostly on dry conditions, it's readily available, relatively inexpensive and last a long time without noises. A quik whipe after every other ride and the drivetrain stays clean enough.

Haven't found anything more convenient, also tried the Teflon Dry but was messy and not that durable. Tried Motorex Wet and Dry lubes too, they worked good but made the whole drivetrain a black wet mess that would stain everything it touches, if I whiped it clean frequently reaplication became necessary more often.

Two things you may have done wrong: Squirt should be first be applied on a clean and degreased chain. Could be your old lube and grime sloughing off. Second, it must dry before you ride, else it will pick up dirt. Lube the day before.

[tomee]

I've tried finishline wet, all the muc-off ceramic lubes, squirt and morgan blue

my favourite right now is Morgan Blue extra dry.
i used to use squirt but my chain was noisy with it

[BugsBunny7788]

My experience...

Muc Off Dry
Not recommended. Not lubricating at all. Not smooth. Not quiet.

Muc Off Wet.
Yes recommended - but depends. It is super lubricating. Your drive train feels super smooth and quiet. BUT --- it picks up a LOT of crud. You will need to VERY CAREFULLY wipe off all excess or else, you will have a very black chain after a very short ride - say 50-100km. Personally I like this lube as its very smooth and quiet.

[Kurets]

I feel the complete opposite. Love Muc Off Dry but hate the Wet version. Muc Off Dry allows you to clean the whole drivetrain with a wet wipe. It needs to be applied frequently, but for the easy of maintenance I don't care. I do mine every 200km or so.

Muc Off Wet turns into disgusting sludge quickly which sticks worse than any other grime. For wet weather I like thw Pro Link Extreme, very light weight on application so it penetrates and cleans the chain well.

Sent from mTalk

[OutOfBreath]

Had not luck with Squirt or Cerabike. Squirt kept building black goo on my drivetrain, specially derailleur pulleys and cerabike was short lived and not that clean either. Went back to Finishline Wet eventhough I ride mostly on dry conditions, it's readily available, relatively inexpensive and last a long time without noises. A quik whipe after every other ride and the drivetrain stays clean enough.

Haven't found anything more convenient, also tried the Teflon Dry but was messy and not that durable. Tried Motorex Wet and Dry lubes too, they worked good but made the whole drivetrain a black wet mess that would stain everything it touches, if I whiped it clean frequently reaplication became necessary more often.

Two things you may have done wrong: Squirt should be first be applied on a clean and degreased chain. Could be your old lube and grime sloughing off. Second, it must dry before you ride, else it will pick up dirt. Lube the day before.

Yeah, could have done many things wrong but in the end I couldn't make those wax lubes work for me and I really wanted to.

Also had a "mineral spirits degreasing period" where I would clean my chain as much as i can and it came out very clean doing various baths with mineral spirits, letting it dry and everything we all know.
Didn't work that well for me either, I think after the deep cleaning the new lube can't get to the innermost parts of the chain causing early noises and short lubing intervals, a waste of time.

Now I just let the factory grase/lube/watever does the chain come with on until it starts to make noise whiping it with a rag from time to time and after that just lube every roller with Finishline Wet when needed.

It's a chain after all. I would love to have a spotless drivetrain, noise free for hundreds of miles but it seems it just won't happen.

[BRM]

I will stick to what I wrote. If you aren't capable of reading and understanding more than five word sentences then don't read, simple.

You stick to what you wrote. lol
You stick with the fact that you rip words out a context to create your own discussion what has nothing to do with my words. Neither it has something to do with the Original startpost. Neither it has something to do with the average rider here.
You live in your own world. Thats the problem.

[Dez33]

I will stick to what I wrote. If you aren't capable of reading and understanding more than five word sentences then don't read, simple.

You stick to what you wrote. lol
You stick with the fact that you rip words out a context to create your own discussion what has nothing to do with my words. Neither it has something to do with the Original startpost. Neither it has something to do with the average rider here.
You live in your own world. Thats the problem.

dude, you need to take a chill pill. If someone decides the watts advantage is enough for them then that's their business, not yours. You've played the same song here for weeks, time to give it a rest I think.

[reknop]

Results below if anyone wants the actual figures ..

Any reference to the complete article of that graph?
I would love to read the context.

[Hexsense]

Results below if anyone wants the actual figures ..

Any reference to the complete article of that graph?
I would love to read the context.

It's the paid document on Friction-Facts.com named "velonews_friction_facts_chain_lube_tests_combined_1.pdf" which i can't shere due to copyright. If you would like to spend some money to read then go to friction-facts.com you'll also found other nice test on other things too.
However if you only intrested in this particular one, check velonews they collaborated for this one so they may also have it publish somewhere.

I will stick to what I wrote. If you aren't capable of reading and understanding more than five word sentences then don't read, simple.

You stick to what you wrote. lol
You stick with the fact that you rip words out a context to create your own discussion what has nothing to do with my words. Neither it has something to do with the Original startpost. Neither it has something to do with the average rider here.
You live in your own world. Thats the problem.

dude, you need to take a chill pill. If someone decides the watts advantage is enough for them then that's their business, not yours. You've played the same song here for weeks, time to give it a rest I think.

+1 on this. why does he think his thinking is absolutely right, anyone who take watt into consideration are silly is beyond me. Doesn't average people also get benefit from reduced watt friction?

[bikemaniack]

I didn't read the whole thread,but when you are using parafine,to wax the cain,are you using anything else like a it of greas??

[wheelsONfire]

Lately i have tested the hyped up Muc Off Hydrodynamic and i am not that impressed.
It's not bad, but it still attracts dirt and grime.
I also tested Spanish Cerabike Wax Lube.
A small company flying under our radar.
It's quite sad, because this is the best lube i have used.

Tested at my gravel bike.
Tarmac, gravel roads, forest paths, dirt tracks aso...
I have not seen my chain in such nice condition with any other lube.
No build up at pulley wheels or chain rings. Run silent!

I would seriously suggest all frentic guys here to contact them and buy a sample bottle.
I could not get it sent here with amazon due to contents.
The other dealer was a mess understanding order form (spanish).
But they send me a bottle when i talked directly to them.
A friendly recommendation comes from me to you

Cerabike - Wax lube = test it!

[Gearjunkie]

This sounds good, but could find no way to purchase

[bikemaniack]

From where you have this chain lube power lose specification?? Where can I find other specification for helmets,shoes,handlebars,etc.??

Thanks

[BRM]

Why you not just start with simple reading?
Its clearly mentioned where he has it from.

Even more important, for the average user its not a good base to choose a lube on.
The friction differences are nihil in real world conditions and there are other more important specifications when chosing a lube.
Interpretation is all. . . . stop staring to figures only.

Besides that, this eficiency test is more than 3 years old. When finding information you need to begin with the date of the information. There is an importance in the date. Because when its old(er) it can be already overclassed by newer information.


And because its old the test easily can be found on the internet like on scribd.com and others.
In this particular issue of the magazine the test was published:
http://velonews.competitor.com/2013/01/ ... 013_272979

The test:
https://www.scribd.com/doc/262044061/Ve ... ency-Tests
http://www.lillylube.com/uploads/Link_t ... rticle.pdf