Lightest QR that actually works well?
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- maverick_1
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@mrgray,
So sorry to hear about the mishap, wishing you a fast recovery!
As for the weightweenie skewers, here are my thoughts:
Big NO if you're planning to use it on a steel frame (with chrome plating), clamping force is never enough and wheel (especially the rear) will come loose when force is exerted, e.g during acceleration or climbing. You'll end up with tire rubs on the chainstay etc (had my fair share of experiences)
If there is still an urge for a lightweight QR, go for the Mavic Ti. You'll save approx 40 grams or so..not much but you get better security and good clamping force even on steel frames with chrome plating.
Cheers
So sorry to hear about the mishap, wishing you a fast recovery!
As for the weightweenie skewers, here are my thoughts:
Big NO if you're planning to use it on a steel frame (with chrome plating), clamping force is never enough and wheel (especially the rear) will come loose when force is exerted, e.g during acceleration or climbing. You'll end up with tire rubs on the chainstay etc (had my fair share of experiences)
If there is still an urge for a lightweight QR, go for the Mavic Ti. You'll save approx 40 grams or so..not much but you get better security and good clamping force even on steel frames with chrome plating.
Cheers
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I had problems with my steel frame with horizontal dropouts. KCNC would slip. Got Paul skewers, no issues ever. Been using KCNC for around 7 years now on my other bikes without incident.
The streeters clamping surfaces are smooth. I like how the kcnc skewers have ridges for more bite.
The streeters clamping surfaces are smooth. I like how the kcnc skewers have ridges for more bite.
How many of you have experience with other skewers than those few you mentioned? Most reactions in this thread seem just for mentioning whatever is on the bike of the one who posts it.
I tried all the lightest skewers, from Carbon-Ti to KCNC, to USE Spin Stix, from Tune AC14's to the new DC ones and even the U20, Extralites, Bold, Shimano, Campy. You name it, I rode them. Even the crazy ones with alu rods front and rear, and they held up fine. I'll say most skewers work fine in most frames.
The lightest ones will always be external cam skewers. Most of them look quite good but with many I find their engineering just not up to par. Example: not having a rotation stop. Also, for whatever reason, some cannot be used for MTB (like Streeters, Tune DC14), which, at least with me, doesn't inspire a feeling of confidence or safety. I like how Fairwheel Bikes did a skewer review http://blog.fairwheelbikes.com/reviews-and-testing/high-end-skewer-review/ but there's no real discussion what makes a good skewer. Clamp force has been mentioned, slippage within dropouts, but nothing more quantifiable than that.
Here's one experience I had. Most skewers are constructed in a way where one threaded end of the axle is fixed in a pivot and the other uses the locknut. What I had with my old USE Stick Shift skewers is that the rod came loose at the lever, instantly turning them into scrap metal.
The best and lightest skewers available I can think of are Tune U20s. They're pricey but do the job reasonably well. I find the Extralite Aliens4 are quite nice but we keep wishing they were lighter. Yet, I wanted something better still, and that's what is on my bike.
AFAIK, I designed the first ball-socket skewers. That concept was later borrowed by many brands. I refined my own skewer design to eliminated all the weaknesses I found in others, including weight (29g per pair WITH springs) and clamp force (>5000N). Can you buy them? No. Why not? Because a few parts need to get finished first by a machine shop whom I ordered 500 pairs from. Maybe with enough orders... To be honest, I don't know how fast I could get rid of them. I don't wanna get my cash stuck in all these skewers.
Meanwhile, here's an old but good article by a well-known cycling journalist: http://www.bikeradar.com/gear/article/angryasian-death-to-crappy-quick-release-skewers-36417/
I tried all the lightest skewers, from Carbon-Ti to KCNC, to USE Spin Stix, from Tune AC14's to the new DC ones and even the U20, Extralites, Bold, Shimano, Campy. You name it, I rode them. Even the crazy ones with alu rods front and rear, and they held up fine. I'll say most skewers work fine in most frames.
The lightest ones will always be external cam skewers. Most of them look quite good but with many I find their engineering just not up to par. Example: not having a rotation stop. Also, for whatever reason, some cannot be used for MTB (like Streeters, Tune DC14), which, at least with me, doesn't inspire a feeling of confidence or safety. I like how Fairwheel Bikes did a skewer review http://blog.fairwheelbikes.com/reviews-and-testing/high-end-skewer-review/ but there's no real discussion what makes a good skewer. Clamp force has been mentioned, slippage within dropouts, but nothing more quantifiable than that.
Here's one experience I had. Most skewers are constructed in a way where one threaded end of the axle is fixed in a pivot and the other uses the locknut. What I had with my old USE Stick Shift skewers is that the rod came loose at the lever, instantly turning them into scrap metal.
The best and lightest skewers available I can think of are Tune U20s. They're pricey but do the job reasonably well. I find the Extralite Aliens4 are quite nice but we keep wishing they were lighter. Yet, I wanted something better still, and that's what is on my bike.
AFAIK, I designed the first ball-socket skewers. That concept was later borrowed by many brands. I refined my own skewer design to eliminated all the weaknesses I found in others, including weight (29g per pair WITH springs) and clamp force (>5000N). Can you buy them? No. Why not? Because a few parts need to get finished first by a machine shop whom I ordered 500 pairs from. Maybe with enough orders... To be honest, I don't know how fast I could get rid of them. I don't wanna get my cash stuck in all these skewers.
Meanwhile, here's an old but good article by a well-known cycling journalist: http://www.bikeradar.com/gear/article/angryasian-death-to-crappy-quick-release-skewers-36417/
“I always find it amazing that a material can actually sell a product when it’s really the engineering that creates and dictates how well that material will behave or perform.” — Chuck Teixeira
maverick_1 wrote:
....go for the Mavic Ti.... you get better security and good clamping force even on steel frames with chrome plating....
Cheers
+1 for Mavic Ti
They may not be the lightest, but they work well!
.
Nick W.
.
Veni, Vidi, Velcro
(I came, I saw, I stuck around)
.
.
Veni, Vidi, Velcro
(I came, I saw, I stuck around)
.
I just reread the Angry Asian article on skewers and I have a new question about it. He suggested adding a drop of oil to an external cam skewer, and if it gets easier to use throw it away. Is he suggesting that they will be more prone to failure by opening at some inconvenient time if they get oil in them?
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I think it's more that it shows they are relying on surface tension to stay closed rather than a proper over centre cam action.
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Right, I ended up getting the Extralite Aliens4, in silver.
36g for the pair, which is 100g off the Dura Ace I was using before.
Mini-review;
-Look good. Machining is extensive and considered, like all Extralite stuff.
-Had to saw off a few mm from the front and rear to make things flush. Not a prob. Took a while though.
-Action is alright. Not as good at Dura Ace.
-They need to be set pretty damn tight, especially on the front, to get past the hub slipping threshold. This makes undoing them more of a wrestle than Dura Ace. Not a big deal but worth considering.
Other than that, I have since forgotten they are on my bike, which must be a good thing.
Good stuff.
36g for the pair, which is 100g off the Dura Ace I was using before.
Mini-review;
-Look good. Machining is extensive and considered, like all Extralite stuff.
-Had to saw off a few mm from the front and rear to make things flush. Not a prob. Took a while though.
-Action is alright. Not as good at Dura Ace.
-They need to be set pretty damn tight, especially on the front, to get past the hub slipping threshold. This makes undoing them more of a wrestle than Dura Ace. Not a big deal but worth considering.
Other than that, I have since forgotten they are on my bike, which must be a good thing.
Good stuff.
mpulsiv wrote:One more time for those of you that scheme through and not paying attention http://blog.fairwheelbikes.com/reviews- ... wer-review
See last reply from viewtopic.php?f=3&t=138361
Kudos.
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cjc wrote:Carbon-Ti qr is lightness and good quality, no problem use 3 year.
alu version and ti version all satisfied. many color is good.
I must try these on my new Colnago E1 build (and I know it's not really a Weight Weenie). I've used their seat post clamps and they are really well made.
A
Extralite Streeters have worked well for me for the last 3 years. Only time they've ever slipped was on a 20% and that was probably user error. The front one got bent when I got hit by a car but while the rear is pretty badly scratched it still works fine.
I plan to order some more soon.
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I plan to order some more soon.
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