Canyon H36 Aerocockpit

[probertsqbe]

After ordering my Canyon Ultimate SLX Frameset in October last year it is finally arriving later on this month.

It comes with the H36 Aerocockpit Handlebar see spec and size below.

Stem Length = 90mm
Stem = -6deg
Handlebar Width = 390mm
Reach 74mm
Drop 128mm

I am currently using a 3T Ergonova Team Stealth handlebar with 3T alloy stem

Stem Length = 90mm
Stem = -6deg
Handlebar width = 400m
Reach 77mm
Drop 123mm

I prefer the overall look of the H36 and as I'm still on Mechanical Dura Ace the cable routing should be easier that the internal routing on the 3T Ergonova which is a PITA.

I am concerned about the difference in drop and reach as my current bike fit is perfect for me having had a professional bike fit a few years ago.

Will adding another 5mm spacer to the stack take into account the difference in drop to the handlebars?

Just trying to decide in advance as I have the option of ordering a 1 1/4 inch stem as don't fancy waiting another 3 months whilst Canyon swap the handlebar and stem as they will only do that once you've received the framesetup. 

The frameset will be built into a sub 6.4 kg bike which I will post as I build.

Any thoughts would be appreciated.



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[cyclenutnz]

I wouldn't worry about a few mm difference in drop placement. Just get the hoods in the same place
What frame are you on currently (and how many spacers under stem)?

[Fixie82]

agree with ^^^,

The listed difference in drop would be less than the difference between glove thickness or bartape. I ride the same drop with thin palmed gloves, gel padded gloves and thick winter mitts (well I did until I moved to QLD) and I couldn't tell a difference in the amount of drop when doing so. If you are more sensitive to position changes than I am you could always run a thicker batape.

[wheelsONfire]

I would wait until i have the bike.
You will notice if you'd need to add 5-10mm spacers.
You can also unwind bartape and insert gel inlays to increase the thickeness and height of handlebar.

[mrlobber]

Another thing is the actual reach/drop frequently is different from the stated values of the manufacturer since no overall standards of measuring those exist (Fairwheelbikes noted the same in their bar review). So just get the cockpit, mount the levers and measure the differences (in there are any), then make decision on final front end setup.

[probertsqbe]

I wouldn't worry about a few mm difference in drop placement. Just get the hoods in the same place
What frame are you on currently (and how many spacers under stem)?

Please see my previous post
Madone 2008 H2 fit vs Canyon SLX ultimate 2016 MY

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[probertsqbe]

Thanks everyone. I'm going to wait until the frameset arrives and fit the H36 and see how close a fit I can get to my existing setup.

Interesting comment from @mrlobber about the manufacturers drop and reach not always matching what is stated.


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[wheelsONfire]

Thanks everyone. I'm going to wait until the frameset arrives and fit the H36 and see how close a fit I can get to my existing setup.

Interesting comment from @mrlobber about the manufacturers drop and reach not always matching what is stated.


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That's pending on where they measure and i guess, shape (width and diameter) also has an affect of the result.
But you can as mention, "build" up a few mm with gel inlays or gel (under bar tape ofcourse).

[DMF]

Am I the only one who's fit actually changes with the season. The optimal fit for my summerbike is not the same in late spring when it comes out as it is in early autumn when I hit some kind of seasonal "super peak". As I'm not rebuilding the cockpit three times in one season, I just split the difference and settle for something in the intermediate range of "seasonal perfect fit".

Also, what some already mentioned about bars and reach. And even measured the exact same ways two bars with identical reach but different curves will place the shifter in vastly different,places, seriously altering the actual reach to hoods. Bars just can't be compared apples to apples.