Is it too much of a hassle to fit , and I better find another solution ?
Or it's feasable pretty easily ?
I read it's not easy to fit. Too bad as I have a great deal on a Red Group, but GXP CRank.
Thanks for the heads up
Louis
GXP crankset ( Red) on a Trek frame ( BB90)
Moderator: robbosmans
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- bikerjulio
- Posts: 1900
- Joined: Fri Dec 11, 2009 10:38 pm
- Location: Welland, Ontario
it's easy peasy http://wheelsmfg.com/bottom-brackets/bb90-95/bb90-95-parts.html though I'd think the bearings need to be tightly in place in the shell.
There's sometimes a buggy.
How many drivers does a buggy have?
One.
So let's just say I'm drivin' this buggy...
and if you fix your attitude you can ride along with me.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GekiIMh4ZkM
How many drivers does a buggy have?
One.
So let's just say I'm drivin' this buggy...
and if you fix your attitude you can ride along with me.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GekiIMh4ZkM
-
- Posts: 128
- Joined: Sun Sep 17, 2006 9:09 pm
- Location: Canada
You can make the Red GXP crank work. Just get your Trek dealer to order you the correct BB bearing set for the SRAM crank and have them installed into the NN shell.
You need a wavy spacer from the non-drive side of the crank arm if I remember correctly. Otherwise it should be the same.
Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk
Regarding GXP and Trek, I have had nothing but good experiences.
I have on Trek with an alloy shell (Cronus) and another with a raw carbon shell (Boone). For both bikes I can simply grease up the correct bearings supplied by my local Trek dealer and drop them in and then install the cranks. Neither bike has ever creaked. Surprising for what is a relatively loose fit. Of course you can always go with Loctite if needed.
What I particularly like about it is the tool free maintenance. I just remove the cranks, pull out the bearings with my fingers and wipe them, wipe the BB shell clean, grease everything up and re-install. I also add a liberal coating of marine waterproof grease between the external side of the bearings and the dust covers before I install the cranks.
Do not fear GXP. I have 5 bikes here running GXP, each in a different BB shell. PF30, BB86, BB90 alloy, BB90 carbon, and BSA. All work very well and silently. Crank installation and removal is a breeze. The wave washer arrangement is a good system. Depending on the bike, I look for anywhere between 50 and 80 percent compression of the wave washer. You can fine tune with spacers if needed.
I have on Trek with an alloy shell (Cronus) and another with a raw carbon shell (Boone). For both bikes I can simply grease up the correct bearings supplied by my local Trek dealer and drop them in and then install the cranks. Neither bike has ever creaked. Surprising for what is a relatively loose fit. Of course you can always go with Loctite if needed.
What I particularly like about it is the tool free maintenance. I just remove the cranks, pull out the bearings with my fingers and wipe them, wipe the BB shell clean, grease everything up and re-install. I also add a liberal coating of marine waterproof grease between the external side of the bearings and the dust covers before I install the cranks.
Do not fear GXP. I have 5 bikes here running GXP, each in a different BB shell. PF30, BB86, BB90 alloy, BB90 carbon, and BSA. All work very well and silently. Crank installation and removal is a breeze. The wave washer arrangement is a good system. Depending on the bike, I look for anywhere between 50 and 80 percent compression of the wave washer. You can fine tune with spacers if needed.
wheelsONfire wrote: When we ride disc brakes the whole deal of braking is just like a leaving a fart. It happens and then it's over. Nothing planned and nothing to get nervous for.
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