ww hanger alignment tool

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goodboyr
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Location: Canada

by goodboyr

Agreed. Have seen that warning but did the alignment anyhow. (It didn't need a lot). In any case, the sky didn't fall, and all was good.
It was a super six evo himod with the "sandwich" hanger.

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Frankie - B
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by Frankie - B

Back to the OP's question please.

A carbon rod with a possibility to attach it to the hanger. (i do prefer the old stool method of screwing it in the hanger) and a tape measure will probably do. sounds like a cool tool.
'Tape was made to wrap your GF's gifts, NOT hold a freakin tire on.'
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BRM
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by BRM

It is not small in lenght but will not weight too much. It's cheap and effective. :wink:

Gear Hanger / Drop Alignment fix ( without buying expensive tools )

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WS2vd8N1Vos

Image

TheKaiser
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Joined: Thu Sep 05, 2013 3:29 pm

by TheKaiser

That is a neat find BRM! I like the idea of taking the wheel out of the equation entirely, at least for shop usage. It has always seemed to add a degree of imprecision to me, and if you are already taking the Rear D off the bike, then it's nothing to take the wheel off too.

AJS914
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by AJS914

The above may not work if your derailleur hanger moves when you clamp your quick release.

A cheap home-mechanic trick I learned is to take an old wheel with a threaded axle. Remove the rear derailleur and screw the axle end into the hanger where the derailleur goes. Now you have another wheel parallel to your installed wheel. Take a tape measure and check the distance all the way around. Obviously, the distance should be the same.

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BRM
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Joined: Sun Mar 16, 2014 3:43 pm

by BRM

@ AJS914

This topic is about a portable derailleurhanger allignment tool. :wink:

And yes in some cases the tension of the quickrelease matters.
Maybe that can be solved by making a tube with the lenght of the hub width, shove it over the threaded rod,
and then putting some tension on it by fastening the nuts.



*btw you need rods that are perfectly straight, so best is to choose rods that are made of good material

AJS914
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by AJS914

If you are on a group ride, you could potentially borrow someone's wheel to align your hanger, even on the road.

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BRM
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by BRM

I try to visualize . . . .
Make sure that at least one of your group has an old wheel with a threaded axle in his bike.
Let him bring spanners also and other tools, like a tape measure.

:|

AJS914
Posts: 5392
Joined: Tue Jan 28, 2014 6:52 pm

by AJS914

Do you just like to be pedantic? I was just threw out this tiny bit of knowledge because this method saved me from buying a $100 tool and I've used it dozens of times now and it works really well. Rather than debating with me you could just ignore my post if you didn't find it useful. Feel free of bring your theaded rod derailleur hanger alignment tool on every ride. The method you posted wasn't quite portable either.

All you need is a key to remove the rear derailleur. Remove quick release, thread in wheel by hand. Measure distance with anything (your hand, a stick from the side of the road, use the skewer). You don't need a tape measure. You just want the same distance all the way around. Pretend you are MacGyver.

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kdawg
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by kdawg

AJS914 wrote:The above may not work if your derailleur hanger moves when you clamp your quick release.

A cheap home-mechanic trick I learned is to take an old wheel with a threaded axle. Remove the rear derailleur and screw the axle end into the hanger where the derailleur goes. Now you have another wheel parallel to your installed wheel. Take a tape measure and check the distance all the way around. Obviously, the distance should be the same.


I dunno - now you've got 2 wheels and that could introduce an error.

One wheel doesn't as you should use the rim where the valve is - turning the valve to the point you are checking. That removes any error from an out of true wheel because you aren't measuring just comparing to the same point on the rim.

I suppose you could rotate both wheels but you've still got a parallax error possibility.
I'm left handed, if that matters.

sungod
Posts: 1702
Joined: Fri Dec 24, 2010 9:37 pm

by sungod

finally got around to it...

so far it is 104.7g, i may make some changes and still need to trim it a bit, i expect it to end up < 100g, compared to a 'real' adjuster i think i met my ww objective

edit: shortened the slider, now 99.5g :)

main shaft is 25mm carbon fibre angle, 2mm thickness

the cf angle is very stiff, i did some calculations before selection, the deflection at the level of force needed to adjust a hanger is tiny (it is less stiff when axial twisting force is applied, but that force isn't needed to adjust a hanger)

at the pivot end of the shaft, i bonded another section of angle to it, this is to make it tougher at the point where applied adjustment force is highest

ha1.jpg
ha1.jpg (9.48 KiB) Viewed 1485 times


the mounting point/pivot is 8mm stainless steel tube 1.5mm wall thickness, i tapped an m6 thread in it, a high tensile bolt connects it to the shaft - i may add a washer each side to avoid crushing forces on the cf at the edges of the tube and bolt head

why 8mm? the hole in an etap rear mech pivot is 8mm and about 12.5mm deep, the steel tube is a snug play-free fit, so the tool doesn't need to be bolted on, just slide in and adjust, very quick, no other tool needed - my original idea had been to use a bolt through the rd pivot, but the discovery that the 8mm tube worked so well meant i could simplify things

the tube is just long enough to allow the tool to be rotated without catching on the rear mech body

ha2.jpg
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the sliding pointer for checking alignment is a piece of spoke, it has a spring loaded clamp on one end to set the 'depth', allowing it to be slid out as the tool is rotated then back in to stop at the depth set by the clamp

to allow positioning the pointer at the brake track, it is carried on a cf slider made from the same material as the shaft, the pieces are bonded together

the slider is held to the shaft with an elastic band, maybe not pretty but it works well, on the side of the tool away from the bike you just drag the band up/down to move the slider

for packing, the pointer simply slides out and can be tucked under the elastic band

ha3.jpg
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